Night Train

This one requires a complete on/off for each mode. I am using it on full power at the moment so each time I switch on again I get low power so I have to switch off, then on to get SOS, then off, and then on again to get full power. The on/off button is nicely recessed on the end cap but it makes it a bit more of a pain to cycle the switch when you are wearing thick gloves.

I got one yesterday to use as a bike light. This is it mounted on the bike on top of a pair of the 9LED torches Aldi sold a few months ago. This the light from the two 9LED torches together with the hall light on. This is the new torch on its own also with the hall light on. It has three settings, on (full power) off, on (low power) off, on (SOS flashes) off an back to the start so you have to keep cycling it around to get the beam you want. I now have two more of them, one as a torch for the tool bag and another for my girlfriend's bike.

Just double locked my account too. Thanks for the heads up.

Morgan +8 Morgan three wheeler, old Super Sports and the new one. Morgan Aero Electric Scammell Explorer Scammell Pioneer Scammell Super Constructor Rotinoff Atlantic AEC Matador MF155 tractor 'Grey Fergie' tractor Land Rover 1966 S2 109" hard top Land Rover 1980 S3 109" Safari Land Rover S2 1 ton with Harvey Frost Crane Land Rover 110" 2B Forward Control Land Rover 127" Truck Cab MGB GT 1970 Ford Escort Mk1 Ford Escort Mk2 van Skoda Superb Diesel Estate 4x4 A traction engine with a crane on the front Windcheater Speedy ICE Trice QNT Borealis Brompton P6R-X with the S2L straight bars AVD Stablemate 180 My amateur build electric reverse hotrod trike My electric tractor

That is a neat idea. How strong is that in the event of a bump though? Compared to ordinary tip up seats I mean.

I noticed at Asda that they are selling snow socks for cars at £35 a pair. I am planning on getting a pair and I am also looking at Vredestein tyres for the car too.

Cheers, looks like I can get away with about 10 tons to get a sharpish bend on both tabs together. Thanks.

I wonder if it has locked/welded diffs to ensure all the wheels stay in sync?

I'm going to need to make a press brake now. Just got a commission for a bit of short production run of a custom bracket and will need to bend some 5mm thick mild steel. The bend will only need to be two tabs of 30mm wide, 25mm long, with a 30mm gap between, bent to 90deg, so a total of 60mm width of 5mm. What sort of tonnage would I be looking for to bend that? Cheers.

Thanks for that, I'll look them up and see if they will fall into my budget. I will be doing the welding myself but keen to have a couple of nice clean and strong hoops to set up with as a starting point. I'm going to mock up in 40mm waste pipe and a hot air gun.

This might be a long shot. Anyone in the Manchester, or York, area who could help me out with bending a couple of rollover hoops? This isn't urgent or immediate as I am designing at the moment and I'm working out what I have to make myself and what I can get a little help with to save buying costly pre made stuff or a rubbish bender. That all effect how the design comes out. I have been rather (long term) ill recenty and as part of my recouperation and therapy I am putting some effort into getting my project vehicle advanced a bit further while trying to get back into work and earning money for it. Thank you.

I don't dilute screen wash in winter at all, I still find it sometimes freezes on the jets dues to wind chill. Will be heating the jets for this winter. Heating the washer fluid is straight forward though. I had an adaptor that was a bit of pipe with a larger plastic barrel around it. The pipe plumbed into the radiator/heater pipe and the washer pipe plumbed into the barrel. An easier way is to just wrap the washer pipe around the heater hose, or coil some copper brake pipe around a heater hose and then plumb in the washer pipe. The washer reserviour on my car is right where the airflow causes it to freeze up. That will need heating too I think.

I tried something similar many years ago, on my series 3, and found that in winter the pipes on the wipers would freeze due to wind chill. I then fitted a heat exchanger on the supply pipe but the heat couldn't stop the pipe freezing even though the pipework under the bonnet was hot. I reverted back to normal jets. Maybe if you can heat the pipes and the jet it would be fine.

This is why you should use a damp proof membrane, doesn't leak like the blue tarpaulin does.

For a larger container stack some light weight building blocks on the drive or patio to form the walls of a container big and deep enough to take the component. Lay in a sheet of damp droof membrane and then fill with water and salts. I don't think it would do a chassis though unless the blocks are mortared in place first.

Back in 1991 when I was running a Ford York 6 pot diesel I lost the fan belt in on the A5 in North Wales near Betws-y-Coed. I stopped at the Shell garage there and bought an emergency fanbelt, one of those red things that you cut and plug back together. By the time I got to Capel Curig, 5 miles up the road, at lunch time the emergency belt had come off and taken out my timing belt in the process. By 3pm an AA van turned up with a fan belt for a 2286cc diesel despite my telling the AA that it needed a tow as the timing belt was gone and the valves bent. By 11.30pm an RAC lorry turned up to take me to the AA depot in Birmingham for the ride back to London. Shoe laces are better then emergency fan belts I guess.

Towed a Thornycroft Antar ballasted to 36 tons. Drove from the end of the M11 to Norwich in deep fresh virgin snow at midnight after an evening of towing drivers stuck on ice on the M11. Pulled two 8' long, 12" square stone gateposts out the ground from a neighbouring house when the builders said I could 'have them if they're gone by Monday and the owner doesn't find out'.

Don't worry about braking for now, you will have all sorts of issues before you get there. It might be good to have a disc braked front and rear axle for the front two axles and then drum braked on the rear two, or you could be selective about the caliper size with discs all round. With unconnected coil spring on each axle you will get axle loading and traction issues on uneven ground. Stay within standard Land Rover weight limits and it may not be an issue but if you had, say, the front axle on a high kerb then it will take more of the load while unloading the second and third axles. They would then have reduced traction leading to both transfer box diffs needing to be locked. Also if cresting a peak in a 4x4 both axles will stay on the ground. In an 8x8 you could find it balanced on just one of the middle axles so you will have to be careful of the axle loading in that case. This is why I designed my 6x6 to have three inverted and fully pivoting, load balancing leaf springs. One front wheel could be lifted 3', or a back one 2', without compressing the springs as they just pivoted on bushings keeping all the other wheels on the ground. It is not so easy with eight wheels but long travel low rate coil springs would keep the tyres on the ground.

I'd go for the welding a nut on it solution. You get heat and something to turn it out with. The heat should be localised enough not to affect anything else unless you go silly with the welder. If you place a tight fitting washer over it first and then an over sized nut the washer will stop you from welding it onto the axle and the loose fit on the over sized nut will allow a bit of penetration in the gap as well as a bigger nut to turn it with. Remember to turn it clockwise to wind the extractor out though.

Me like! I would start with the four axles laid out where I wanted them and then fit the suspension and transmission parts to work out locations and clearences and then place two lengths of box section onto it to and weld on the locating points for the suspension and transmission. No point messing with Land Rover parts that are all the wrong shape, just use your donar chassis for some brackets and the required dimensions for the cab and other mounting positions. It should all work out ok. No need to steer the middle axles as the whole vehicle would pivot on the mid point between them regardless. The tyre scrub will be a small price. The alternative would be to steer the front two axles one way and the rear axle the opposite way and it will all pivot on the third axle. It will take a bit of thought to get the Akermann angles and relative steer angles correct so you reduce tyre scrub rather then increase it. I would keep it all mechanical drive using the dog clutches in the transfer boxes to isolate one pair of axles when on the road. Maybe worth making some sort of interconnected high/low selector so both transfer boxes stay in the same gear. Scary bangs and crunches if you get it wrong. Look forward to seeing it take shape.

Ahhhh, Cheers Simon.

Formica?

Maybe dm90 was looking for the 'stretched' look.

Cheers, yes I thought of that but don't have the means to bore a suitably accurate hole and don't want to pay extra for someone to do it for me. Might have to though.

Looking at the hegative feedback I wouldn't trade with that seller. Sellers are obliged to accept Paypal as that is in the Ebay rules. It also means that if he sends you faulty parts you can set up a dispute and get your funds back. If you pay by other means then you will find it difficult to get refunded.