7.5mm hole is easy just use a drill , and for the others would use a hole saw , ive cut 6mm stainless with hole saws lots of trime , last one i cut was a 6" hole for a flue , using a hole saw from screwfix , just take it easy , with some cutting oil and you will wizz thru it even with a battery drill
dont know the thickness off hand , will grab one when im back in work and measure it , prob around an extra .8mm-1mm at a guess , but defently make a better seal on our application , we had never used them in work before these yank machines came in but now a good alternitive repair to stripping other machines and building up shafts too
try gwyn lewis , hes not officially open on a sunday but will defently have what you want and may be around , and it sounds like its on your way ?
mine went a few years ago only 20 miles from home but became undrivable and had to be recovered , if the steering shakes get bad could allways try a ratchet strap to put some preload on to the knackeded bushed might keep you going ?
ive had these arecatches on my challenge 90 for over 4 years , never had a problem with mud , bent my bonnet recently with winch rope and as studs are only ali , was a 2 second job to realighn pin to new position of catch
when i bought mine i registered it with IW and did a cheak/registered it with http://www.ter-europe.org/ the register named above , if you do a cheak thru them , they issue a ''due diligance'' certificate and if later reported stollen , your in the clear and they will pay you out , they send there people all over the country to auctions/ plant sales etc cheaking seriel numbers/ vins of plant and cross referancing it againset there register for stolen equiptment .
if they where able to reproduce vin plates /laser cut numbers in to a frames wouldnt need to ask for the details , plus they will not tell you but apparently there are about another 7 places on IW trilers with its id stamped in to it ?
ive used that ''chrome spray'' on a light fitting and it supprisingly good (although no good for a grill that will be subjected to all sorts on the road)
if you can get the tin foil to look better , probably the cheapest option :-)
but if the grill is £400 and you can get it done for £100 thats £300 in his pocket seams ok to me
Dan , the missing the Bog bit isnt Matts doing , the site has new owners and the bog is now out of bounds , why you would willing want to go in there any way i do not know lol
yep as allready said deffently a body off job on the D3
take a look over on disco3.co.uk as mentiones there is a thread on the very subject on there , i think the dealers take around 6 hours for a body removal
we use them in work on air lines up to 90psi with no problems and on cooling water curcuits up to 1" diameter and around 30psi but with large flow rate
ha ha , its really not that bad now , that pic was a while back , bought a rook load of racking last summer and put things away , defently lucky with the room , thats just one bay of a 3 bay cattle shed , but now we dont farm any more have plenty of space for carp (um i mean usefull things )
cant take pics camara flat and god knows where the charger has gone too
ive taken a look , its in there but not acctally secured to any thing , its a good tight fit , looks as if ive removed the white plastic adaptor though , i havent even cut the grill out of the wing top yet(didnt use the NOR ones as i altered mine slightly )
heater still works just fine on and off road
it still fits , give me a min and will go take a pic and see what i did to get it in but defenatly in there , may have to fit it in before fitting wings ?
good choice mate
you say over kill for what you want , seams like youve got all the right bits inside , will give you years of service and if you decide to compete in the future its well up to the job and as a bonus its resalve value is now much higher