roguevogue

Deleted after I saw the light.

I'm sorry but I have to agree too, I don't have a clue what the Wuffles/Truffles thing was about nor why it was relevant but I would like to have the oportunity to make my own mind up.

Yes Nigel, we have a 180A AC/DC Tig unit from Weco Supplied by Mercury Welding. Nice small unit and perfectly adequate for most stuff, although struggles to get enough heat into large items.

Lobster racing is an abhorent sport, usually ending with the winners AND losers getting boiled alive.

Spose i'd better too then.

The axle moved a long way but the "triangular" bushes were restricting the downward travel, with the car cross axled a foot on the trye could push it down against the rubber of the bush, it is true that kinking the radius arms would have helped but the bushes would still be stressed. The third link using the front radius arm bushes is an idea I borrowed from the Gon2far three link, the first fitment as used at Bures had rubber bushes which didn't last the whole day, now it has poly bushes which should last longer. In time, if they turn out to last, I would like to replace them entirely with anither Gyro Joint. As far as axle tramp goes, I avoid driving on the road when posssible not least because of the fuel economy but mainly because it's like driving the Isle of Wight ferry. The front three link and long shocks allows an alarming amount of body roll, and articulation. See here.

I'm hoping that the grease will keep the grit out, being as they are not metal on metal should help. Here are some more pictures of the rear end setup.

I nearly did!

The bushes have the same sort of feel as blue poly bushes. They cost about $95 each, plus carriage, if you can find someone who will ship to the UK. Bushes are available as a replacement part but I don't know how much, other joints cost about $4 a set!!

I suppose you've just got in from work then and have too much time on your hands before dinner Graham?

I don't have an A frame ball joint, I outgrew that already.

I recently recieved a pair of Nth Degree Mobility's Gyro joints to play with, thanks hugely to SteveG. They are basically a ball and socket, with a 2" diameter ball sitting in a polyurethane cup, a bit like a hip joint. The thread is 1" diameter. The bracket in the picture is of my own manufacture, the joint when supplied in "DIY" form comes with a flat plate intended to weld on to the chassis somehow. Because the joint is American the thread is a unified form, however it is not straight forward UNF (1"-12), as I found out to my cost, but UNS (1"-14). Luckily I have a very good engineering suppliers locally called Antron who were able to source a tap so that I could adapt to my radius arm tubes. The radius arms are made of 38mm od, 4mm wall CDS tube. Having removed the old bracket from the chassis I ground off the last remnants of the welds and prepared for the new brackets. I welded the new brackets on a known distance from the front axle bracket so that the wheel base remains constant. After a quick lick of paint and job done. The joints come with a designed in grease nipple and grooves in the bush to flow the grease arround the ball. Now as soon as I get a new starter motor I will be able to get down from the ramp and test them out.

That dizzy body has to be quite a lot smaller diameter and have a shorter neck than mine as I had to remove a LOT more manifold than that and I didn't remove any unnecessary material, in fact I still had to trim the cap before I could fit it. The flange where the cap meets the body is level with the top of the bolt head pictured, even though the bolt is much lower down and has been replaced with a heavily trimmed cap screw. I also had to cut off the lifting ring from the power steering/alternator bracket and tickle the cylinder head in the same area. I hope it turns out to be worth it now. Good to be different after all, and to be a doer rather than just a talker.

I finally made the time to fit the HEI distributor that I got from HFH a while back. I had to remake the HT leads with the correct fittings on the dizzy end as they are the wrong sex . This type of distributor is supposed to be less susseptible to water than the standard V8 lucas one. The distributor body is HUGE compared to the standard unit so I had to remove the lug that the bolt goes through on the near-side water way where the inlet manifold meets the head. All was fine until I removed a bit too much lug and the water escaped! Anyway, after removing the whole manifold and welding up the hole, refitting and replacing all the jubilee clips and gaskets, it runs!

Who YOU calling odd?

Did you mean Klunk? Coat on - Running!!

Are you sure you want to say that?

Thanks to Steve and Chris, a great day and were'nt we lucky with the weather, it tipped down all the way home. Thanks also to Steve for the accomodation/entertainment on Saturday night and lunch on Sunday, made all the difference.

Order one from PG Winches, you should get it by the weekend, they only cost about £20.

Found this Pop Rivet sticking out of my tyre, about 2" up the side, no idea how it got there but it stayed there for about a year before I pulled it out and the tyre went flat instantly. This is the most unfortunate thing that i've seen happen to a tyre, at seven sisters last year, a stone went through the side wall.

I don't like to be pedantic but I don't think you spelt his name correctly, perhaps one less I? (About as much use I hear)

Later in the year might suit me now as well, save me having to improvise something with the rear radius arms. Seriously though I could still make the 8/9

I still plan to come.

Yes, it is me, and Paul. Finally found a copy, bit disappointing really, still better than nothing.

Well, is it? There doesn't seem to be a copy in my part of the world yet, has someone got a scanner and a copy?