Orange

OK, so it sounds like I'm heading down the right track... Have had the timing chest off tonight and it's like oily porridge (best way I can describe it) splattered all over the place, so this points more at over pressurisation of the entire engine rather than just the water system! More investigation, methinks!!

Cheers Mark. The head is coming off because I want to make sure there aren't any issues after the few times it has overheated... There don't appear to be any, but while I'm taking it all apart, I might as well!! The heater has been warm throughout all the issues, so I don't think it's airlocked, sometines it's been HOT, but that's the overheating. I make a point of making sure the car is facing 'up' the drive when it's refilled so the heater isn't the highest point! .............

I'm scratching my head!! My 300 has been suffering from overheating. I've replaced the viscous unit and that worked wonders, but not perfect. I replaced the rad and it now runs as cool as a cucumber... Took it for it's MoT on Saturday (about 50 miles) and temp never raised above 1/3 on the guage. However, after 2 days of sitting, I opened the header tank to check the water level and it erupted up my arm. Is there anything wrong here, or am I making a mountain out of a molehill?? I'm currently replacing a snapped timing belt (done on the way home from the MoT!!!) and will be taking the head off to check all the pushrods etc, so would like to get it all sorted at the same time if anyone can offer any bits to check or replace while I'm doing it... I'm thinking that I'll replace the thermostat anyway, just to rule it out... TIA Adrian

I was warned off of the 'heavy duty' clutch as they tend to be a bit brutal in their operation. Fine for an off-road plaything, but a real PITA for everyday driving and comfort...

If you run a continuous seam weld around the hole, the MoT tester won't really be able to tell whether the patch is over the top or underneath - especially if you are going to fill and paint afterwards... If he does ask any more questions, just tell him it's butt welded!!

No saviour in this case. The clutch will need replacing. With all of the effort that is involved with getting to the clutch, I would recommend getting the flywheel changed as well. I did!! It will cost a substantial amount more (if done by a garage) but you will probably find that fitting a new clutch will promptly lead to problems with the old flywheel, so you might as well just pay the one labour charge (or just take the gearbox out once) and do them both at the same time!! Done at a LR Dealer, you'll be looking at the best part of £900 for both. I did get quotes for less, but they only gave a 3 month warranty whereas LR gave me a year and the other garages just seemed too cheap if you know my meaning!! Just bear in mind that different LR dealers will also give you different prices, so grab the phone and see what they can do for you...

Do some research on the prices... The ones quoted above are a tad over the mark if you ask me. I certainly had trouble shifting propshafts for anything more than £20 each and axles (guessing 10 spline as it's a 3.5) are worth about £50 each for the whole lot - well, that's what I payed for a late front one with ABS a couple of years ago. Broken down into their separate parts, they may fetch a bit more. I've never paid more than £20 for a 10 spline diff and £25 for a pair of half shafts, but I know others do. Use the 'completed listings' search facility on ebay and you will see what items are actually selling for. Be realistic. The £150-200 that you are going to spend on getting the engine up and running again may be a bit of a wild goose chase, too. When it comes to the end of the current MoT, it's going to require more work and the amount invested in the engine won't be recovered if you then decide to sell or break it... You could find something fairly cheap on ebay as a play thing with 6 months MoT and Tax for the time being, probably being sold by someone in the same boat as yourself. Don't hold out for a minter, but just get something for the time being and concentrate all of your 'spare' time and funds on getting the 90 roadworthy/rebuilt...

Here's what I have had made: Waffle Holders They fit inside the rear tub, but are spaced away from the rear face so that 1) the tailgate still shuts and 2) the rear light covers can remain in place... I had them knocked up by a friend as a favour, so they cost me nothing... Bit of steel and a welder/folder and you should be away. You could even make them out of chequer plate if you want to.

All I can add to this is that the remap will accentuate any existing wear in the engine. Before he did mine, Ian (of IRB fame) ran a check to see how healthy the injectors etc were. I also had the EGR removed, a de-cat downpipe and an air filter added to the package. In my opinion, doing the map witout the additions would be pointless as the main restriction on the system is the Cat. Ian also accompanied me on a post-mapping test run with the diagnostics plugged in to check that all was in order before I left for home... And just to add that mine has since passed it's MOT without the Cat on....

Have a look at this thread and then do a bit more searching for posts by clbarclay... He's the guy I was thinking of... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=28621&view=&hl=front%20winch%20bumper&fromsearch=1

Bin the standard bumper and, as Bowie says, get a nice close fitting winch bumper. Southdown would be my choice, too. Putting the winch in front of the standard bumper will mean that it will stick out a looooong way. It will also mean that any pull that isn't exactly straight will put excess strain on the mountings and more than likely bend them... There is another member who has put the winch between the chassis rails and made what is in effect a letterbox in the standard front bumper. I'll try to find it...

Not a Discovery, but it will give you an idea of how we overcame the rotten side sections on my Range Rover... Rear Floor and Crossmember replacement

Any more clues?? I expected there to be bright flashing lights around the new site details, but can't really seem to see anything special on the website.....

Viscous fan..... I've just had exactly the same problem and it turned out the viscous unit was knackered. Remove the fan. It the spindle turns with very little resistance, it's knackered. If it's stiff, then it's OK and you'll need to look elsewhere... HTH Adrian

From memory, I think it is the amplifier unit for the aerial that's located in the rear quarter light... I'm not certain, though. Does the blue unit in the first picture connect to it? If so, it says FM AMPLIFIER on it...... there is definitely a part number on it that may turn up some information on Google or in the parts catalogue...

Surely a trip to the scrap yard with the dimensions will sort you out with a quick fix. If necessary you can buy a universal pump from VWP or Halfords and wire it to the existing loom and knock up a quick bracket to mount it... I have heard of setups utilising 'soft' water bottles (like in a camel pack) with the pump positioned in-line in order to get into tighter spaces...

I believe that the door seals (along the bottom) changed around the 200/300 TDi changes. My previous 200TDi had the seals attached to the sills whereas my 300 has them attached to the underside of the door frame. The earlier method seems to keep more water out, but they had a tendancy to get ripped off as people got in and out of the vehicle...

It all looks to be correct and as Land Rover originally designed it... To be honest, all I have in the bottom of my doors is a few holes from where different seals have been fitted over the years. It may let water in when I go wading, but it also lets the water out after...

Ahhh. Didn't know there were 2 'genuine' belts available. The parts diagrams I have only list 1... I had it pointed out to me that I could just go to Halfords (other motor factors are available) and just buy a similar belt that's a bit shorter... The problem is that I'm not really going to be able to tell what's going on until it's all under load, i.e. belt slippage, or just lack of 'drive', so I might buy another belt and keep it in the spares box just in case... Thanks all...

I've just replaced the alternator on my 300 Defender... What came off was a Magnetti Marelli 65 Amp jobbie and I've replaced it with a 100 Amp version of the same make. (Wiring is also dealt with...) the 65 Amp one has a larger pulley with an external fan, but the 100 Amp one has a smaller pulley with an internal fan. The pulleys are not interchangable (I tried) as when you tighten the larger pulley onto the 100 Amp alt. it seizes solid. I have just put the 100 Amp unit on with it's smaller pulley and replaced the auxillary drive belt with what appears to be no ill-effect... I am nervous, though! Even though there is plenty of movement left in the belt tensioner, is it a problem to run a smaller pulley on the alternator?? My guess is that the 100 Amp unit needs a higher RPM to produce it's output than the 65 Amp unit would have done, hence the smaller pulley, but can an adult confirm this...?? Cheers Adrian

My sentiments exactly!! Mine is a Serengeti Special Edition. It's a base model with 5 seats and the only extra is Climate Control. Might be what you are looking for...

Been asked a couple of times before..... Here's one of the more recent threads...

Nice work Tony. Quick Q... The belt you have shown in the pics above is presumably a narrow serpentine belt, but where does the other end go?? Cheers Adrian

I know for definite that base models with 5 seats have Coil springs on the rear and none of the hardware installed. I believe that all of the electricals are there, but none of the springs, pipes, compressor etc... I think the air suspension is only applicable to 7 seat models accross the range, but am willing to be corrected on that...

The whole front timing chest layout is different... Alternator, water and power steering pumps are in different positions. The flywheel housing is also different. The fuel pump creates the different power levels.