Orange

Might try that then, cos at the moment, it looks appauling!! And I tried really hard to do it properly!!

Mine is a synthetic paint mixed up from a clour match by a local paint factors. It's not a perfect match for the rest of the truck, but if I could be bothered to T-cut my challenge truck, it would be close!! It's a very 'quick' paint, so it's a bit difficult to get a decent brush finish on a large flat panel (like the doors I am painting) but is very good for smaller areas like around the door-top frame.

I find that ringing (or walking into in my case) Bearmach gives the best results. They don't have a webshop, but they do have a download section with PDFs of the common parts with all the numbers. They are helpful diagrams as well in some cases when you've forgotten how it all goes back together...

Portofino Rad - LRC390........just had the same conundrum on a 1995 90!! I ended up getting a colour match done from the (cleanest bit) tailgate so that I could have brushable paint. If you order paint to the LR code, you will also require thinners and activators that will leave your pocket awfully light and it can only be spray applied once properly mixed...

I'm not sure what's under the drivers seat on a V8 - probably the ECU etc, but this is how Mark fitted a compressor in his 300TDi... On board Air in a Disco Another option is to fit it under the bonnet on the passenger side near the bulkhead - there might be enough space, but it'll be a bit prone to water/mud splashes. Or, if you have the lockers in the back rather than the dickie seats, how about something there...?

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!! :o :o :o

What age is the Range Rover?? By RRVM do you mean a VM Diesel P38 like this: If so, I am unsure if the axle will be a straight swap... If it's a Range Rover Classic......like this: it will be fairly easy nut and bolt job as long as the lower shock absorber mounts are both facing forwards...

I use Bearmach for just about everything and have never had any issues. Try to avoid Britpart...

On this occasion Boggie, I beg to differ!! No amount of reseating/smears of copper grease on the backs has cured the squeal from my genuine rear pads... I'm just waiting for them to get a bit more worn in before taking them out and trying again.

Standard springs, X-springs (from X-Eng ) and a set of longer shocks are where my money would go if going back to basics. Along with a set of longer brake hoses!!

Surely you can just run the power lead and earth from one of the two batteries...?? Or am I being too simple about it?? (I, too, am simple when it comes to electrickery...!!)

My trip to see Ian at IRB Developments (Porny) has left me with mixed feelings as whilst it has put a smile on my face (having a Disco that goes better ) it has highlighted a problem that I think has been brewing for some time... My clutch is slipping under load in 3rd, 4th and 5th gears when accelerating hard. And it's also juddering when taking up drive from a standstill (it's been doing this for a few weeks ). Now, I've had a read round several forums (fora? fori?) to find out as much as possible, but can't lay my hands on anything definite... If I am replacing the clutch, do I need to replace the dual mass flywheel too? I figure that as I am in there, I might as well, but it's a lot of money to spend with a holiday on the way... I have read, both here and elsewhere, that the DMF can crack and fail or wobble itself to death, but there are no noises... Don't get me wrong. If it needs doing, it'll get done, I just need to be prepared with a bit of foam for my jaw to hit when I get the bill... It can't be left! I'm off to Ireland in a couple of weeks and don't want to start the travelling with a known problem, let alone pay 'emergency' rates at a garage I don't know in a 'foreign' country when the inevitable happens... If I decide (more than likely due to a list of things to do before my holiday) to take it to a LR specialist, what sort of time is involved for an 'expert'? Just so I know what sort of cost is involved... First Four state £550 (plus DMF if needed) for a clutch change... Is this reasonable as a plain clutch from the likes of Paddocks is £50 plus VAT?? TIA Adrian

TJM do a set of seat covers that can be made to fit most seats... They fit quite comfortably around Range Rover seats and also can be adjusted to suit the likes of fast road seats, like Recaros etc. They have pockets all over the place and various sets of draw strings and bungee sections to make them properly snug over the original seat so they don't slide around or come off when getting in and out of the vehicle. The only problem is, they are one-piece ones. I think they could work on standard Defender seats, but am not overly sure... The other problem is that I can't find any detils of them. A friend purchased his from OEC, so might be worth speaking to Anton there...

Not sure about changing the disks, but I did all 4 sets of pads within an hour including drinking a cup of tea whilst doing it. They are quite simple to do even without a manual (of course I recommend that you read a manual - no offence, but I don't know your level of mechanical knowledge).

Just had this query myself, so I rang the insurers and asked. Mine weren't worried about the remap, just about any 'expensive' additions such as larger intercoolers, stainless exhausts etc. Afterall, they don't have to pay out to remap the engine, but if you are in the unfortunate position of being involved in a frontal collision, an uprated intercooler is far more expensive than a standard one... For once, I think the insurance company came up with a fair and reasonable decision and a very plausible explanation for why my premium would rise (or they would not cover anymore without changing the policy to a 'modified vehicle' policy) if I had these modifications done. Needless to say, I stuck with a 'Stage 1' for now, but having seen/felt the difference, I will more than likely go back for the 'Stage 2' and larger cooler in the near future.

Is this because it's a pattern part?? Will a genuine one fit properly or don't they make/supply them any more??

Sounds familiar to the prblem my neighbour had with theirs. The clutch master and slave cylinders on the 1.8 petrols are connected by a small tube around the edge of the engine bay on the passenger side. They have to be replaced as a complete set )includig the pipe) as they come pre-assembled and filled. It's a simple job to do - there might even be a thread in the Tech Archive if you look carefully... I assume the set-up is the same on the TD4, but I'm willing to be corrected. The replacement process goes something like: 1/ disconnect the master cylinder from the clutch pedal in the driers footwell. 2/ Move to the engine bay and twist the master cylinder through 90 degrees so it will pull out of the bulkhead. 3/ Unclip the hose and thread the master cylinder around the engine bay. 4/ Remove the airbox. 5/ Remove the plastic C-clip from the slave cylinder at the side of the gearbox. 6/ Wiggle the slave cylinder and it'll come out. 7/ Replace new slave cylinder being careful not to let the actuator arm come out. 8/ Thread the master cylinder around the engine bay and back through the bulkhead. 9/ Reconnect the clutch pedal and replace the airbox. 10/ Test it........ Simples... Even I managed to do it!! Took about an hour and I only had the Haynes Manual to go by which, while OK, isn't great!! Don't drom the C-clip!! Although you will get a new one, it's a b#gger to get it out with all the plastic trims underneath!!

:hysterical: Sorry!! That just made me chuckle!!!

Here it is... CLICK ME!!! I've got a shed load more pictures somewhere, too, so ask if you want any other angles...

Had mine for nearly 4 years now and the only thing that's gone wrong is the fuel pressure regulator. Relatively easy fix with Les's guide and a small pair of hands........I took mine to a garage!! Chubby digits! Mine is manual and I find it a little frustrating at times. Definitely could do with a 6th gear and maybe a longer 1st, but I'll see what happens once IRB Developments have 'done their thing'... If buying again, I would definitely go for an auto. Oil in the injector harnesses is a common problem - again, there is a thread and loads of information on here. I believe the new harness/loom isn't too expensive and you'll need a new rocker cover gasket to go with it. The rear door leaks - but you'll be used to that having owned Discoveries before!! Underseal was non existant on most of the chassis, so mine looks a little tired, but is more than solid still. You do hear of some horror stories, but so far, mine's behaved for 58k miles on an 02 plate. It is almost a base model, though, so not much luxury or electrickery to go wrong.

There are definitely 2 different pinion seals for the 300TDi..........experience tells me this!!!!! One is much deeper than the other. When you get the right one, make a note of which it is as you will need another one and it's nice to know rather than having to take it all apart to find out!! To remove the old seal, I have a small two-armed puller that fits nicely under the old one with the centre shaft on the pinion.

The little amber light is called a side repeater. I'm not entirely sure what else you need, because there should be a bulb holder and short length of wiring with it, too... I'm not sure whether you can buy just the lens on it's own... Try the Part Numbers Request forum and I'm sur Ralph will come up with the correct part numbers...

I can't help with a diagram, but I can tell you that my seat frames have 2 pairs of wires on them, one is a link lead and plugs into the seat bottom/base and the other connects to the wiring loom (if there was one...) so there shouldn't be 2 sets of wires coming from the loom to the seat... Not sure if that helps or not, but......

Check the dimensions and power handling/rating of the new one are the same as the old one and go for it. You might also want to shop around a bit... Batteries are fairly expensive, though.

I have one of these: Which is the second one down on this page: VWP and it has a protector for the alternator. I use it as a cut out on my competition 90 and it's been tested by me and at scrutineering several times without causing damage to anything. It does lose all the stereo presets, though!!! Most have a bayonet type fitting on the key, so it can't come out when it's in the 'closed' position (i.e. engine running). I redirected the main leads from the battery and the starter motor to a position just to the right of the fuse panel in the Defender. Plenty of space here fot the cables on the back within the tunnel/bulkhead area. I used the same size cable as the main leads which is 35mm, I think. Definitely a lot bigger than 16mm.