Scotts90

265/75r16 on OEM boost alloy, Mantec wheel carrier, 02 onwards door.

Oh well, that hasn't helped my overwhelming urge to refurb a 110 crewcab! I like that a lot

Looks smart...another mod for the list ( that I keep telling the wife is almost finished lol)

I looked into this for a car strip and rebuild and whilst there are numerous positive experiences there are quite a few unhappy ones. Getting the chemical thoroughly flushed out and the removal of any seam sealer compound was another. There was a guy with an Aston that had it done and spent years chasing rust issues at the seams as well as bleed-through at various places in the paint. I think if you can gain access to all the joints and reseal and protect then it's fine, most cavity waxes are applied blind though.

My 45a tdi alternator was getting considerably worse over the last few days, so I fitted the new 65a Lucas one and pleased to say normal service has returned. It requires a slight tickle to get the charging light out (a blip of approx 1-200rpm) the old one was requiring almost 3/4 throttle to initiate charging. I'll get around to stripping it to see what's worn inside.

I bought a set of Hozan crimps as Paul had recommended them in another topic....very versatile!!

Good advice...I live with it until it's upgrade time . It doesn't need the nuts revved off it by any means, just a healthy prod of the loud pedal. Another bit of character lol

According to the wiring diagrams the charge light is rated at 1.2w in the instrument cluster on the td5 and 300tdi. An old 200tdi wiring diagram I looked at has the warning light rated at 1.2w and an additional inline resistor and diode with no value stated...I used/adapted the td5 engine and charging looms on my conversion. I still have my old looms...may go for a trawl through the charging circuit to see where it is and if possible retro fit it and see if it makes any difference.

I have a brand new OE switch, interestingly though I think all of us are running td5 instruments and warning light panels. Could the LED be too low a rating for the old 200 alternator?

Disco 1 and defender wheels share the same stud pattern, so the wheel stud holes physically line up. Early 90s had the thick drive member ( the part of the axle at the hub with 5bolts around the little plastic cap). This meant later alloy wheels with a "closed" face would not seat properly against the hub. Most steel wheels do not have a closed face so will fit early and late axles with no issues. If you really want alloys, then you have two options that don't require the grinding of wheels or hubs. 1: Spacer kit....readily available and they move the mounting face outward which gives increased track/better turning circle and some may say enhanced looks. Buy hubcentric type for a safer fitment. 2: Replace axle for a later type...300 tdi/td5 defender for sure, disco 1 front axle has narrow flanges too iirc. Alloy wheels bolt straight on per factory fitment. Hope that helps

I have a MY02 td5 clutch pedal and servo assembly fitted, it had the same "spring on bolt tag" set up as the old TD. However looking at this I'll be retro fitting the leg saver spring!

It doesn't really bother me, the pulley theory sounds good though. I was going to fit a twin alternator setup or upgrade to the 120a model. My base spec alternator wasn't designed for the full monty td5 XS setup!

That's interesting...my 200tdi needed a mild blip to extinguish as well. Fitted up the 2nd battery with the 200a x-charge relay and now it needs a larger dose of throttle to extinguish. I just assumed the piggy backed wire from the charge light to the relay was drawing some current from the warning light path. Once it's out it never reappears or flickers and the output is nice and healthy too. Not much of a help, but it's only done so since the addition of the VSR.

I noticed the non LR barrels had a really poor retainer at the end. It's supposed to be a small spring loaded plunger that holds the barrel within the handle assembly. I had a set of 3 come with a non OE lockset and only one functioned as it should, and at that it was still a poor fit. The genuine ones on the other hand are a tight fit and almost snap into the handle assembly when pushed home.

Or simply not bother with the hazard triangle? Running separate feeds will illuminate both direction icons and the old style switch will flash...fulfilling MOT requirements iirc

Can you use gr/wh for RH indicator, gr/red for LH indicator feeds (splice from stalk for +ve feed) and then pick up the gr/wh from the hazard switch to feed the hazard warning (connect to bk/red) I'm pretty sure I read someone done this....possibly on this thread

Black with red tracer from original loom? I fitted full td5 looms so was mostly plug n play but James's guide was very helpful http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2009/10/installing-defender-td5-gauges-into-a-200tdi300tdi/

My 9 speed auto evoque was poorer in terms of the driving experience than my 8sp D4. The D4 had oodles more torque available than the evoque so I presume was partly the reason why it was suited better to the auto. The D4 would always appear to be in the proper gear where as the evoque always had a little time to think which gear it would like. In traffic they were a god send, even knocking the D4 into low when crawling along was a doddle. You certainly feel it in the calf muscles when using the defender in queues!!

Yes, wright off-road supply the matting to exmoor. Exmoor had a black lt77 kit in stock for immediate despatch with my other stuff so it came from them, I think it had to be made to order going direct to Wright and I have no patience!

I got it via my parts guy from exmoor trim along with some other stuff, I'm pretty sure it was about £390

I've been looking at the silent coat stuff that Anderzander links to, it's butyl based as opposed to bitumen so not quite as smelly. I was think that with some closed cell foam over the top should do the trick.

As per title, anyone got a recommendation for sound deadening material? I've fitted the wright off road acoustic matting to the front section and have new headlining on its way so I am looking to see what others have used for good effect on the roof/floor/rear quarters. I noticed the specialist guys seem to favour dynamat extreme.

You should be able to find the link to the electrical wiring diagrams on here, the 300tdi and td5 ones are very easy to follow and very similar for standard equipment. From memory the earth points are on a header on the engine side of the bulkhead bolted beside the large grommet for the loom

I've got one of these http://www.tayna.co.uk/Enduroline-CXV-X-1000-Amp-P9008.html in my truck, recommended by my parts supplier...been faultless so far

I re trimmed an old set of seats and fitted the OE heater pads...one lasted approximately 15mins before the limit stat broke. Doing the first seat is the hardest, especially clipping the seat back cover together. It's one of those jobs where a third hand would be ideal. I bought the exmoor G4 retrim kit, full set of foams/glue etc and watched the how to videos about 10 times first!