Scotts90

I thought I'd seen a link somewhere before. Thanks ?

I'd be interested too...

Bolted and spotted iirc. The join along the top panel is bolts/spire nuts, the side cheek that bolts to the radiator surround is riveted and spot welded and the internal frame for the light housing is spotted on too. I have a pair of front panels that I bought cheap with the idea to replace my old knackered ones. It worked out less hassle to buy new wings with all attached. Easier to see above

That'll bolt onto/around the wheel box recess that the later puma/tdci models has....I think

As above, the defender is one of the best vehicles to learn DIY maintenance skills. The tech archive on this forum has excellent how to guides...if you're stuck just ask.

It's a common misconception that "they all leak"... No they don't! When I rebuilt the transfer box on mine I renewed the seals with corteco ones but 2000miles later it started to drip, this was down to the slight pitting evident on the output flange. After replacing tithe flange and seal all was well. If the gear and transfer boxes are original and are 30yrs old then it may be time for some TLC.

I have the two nozzle setup as well, I also recently replaced the standard wipers with Bosch flat blades and they definitely help as they don't seem to "flap" as much.

There's a lot of movement in the bush where the steering damper meets the drop arm ball joint, as well as the drop arm balljoint looking as though it could have play. Hold the pitman arm (drop arm) and the damper and give a good old yank in all directions. If it's sloppy and there's play then replace the balljoint, go for a genuine Land Rover one as these last far longer. The steering damper bush is cheap to replace too so may as well do that anyway (or good excuse for an upgrade). If you have access to an assistant get them to gently rock the steering wheel (engine off) and you should be able to feel/see where the play is. Same goes for the track rod, give that a pull to see if there is any play on the track rod ends.

90 is with AF on an agreed value policy with all mods declared, I did note only 6 were on the certificate when it arrived but a swift call confirmed that it can only take 6 when printed but the rest were listed on their system. Been with them for quite a while now through various performance cars and motorbikes. I've used Admiral in the past who don't really mind modifications but will only replace with standard spec should a claim arise. I tried Lancaster when putting the 90 on the road and they were nearly 3 times AF and has loads of weird clauses in their quote. Found it quite amusing when they called to see if I still required their services and that they could beat any quote...they couldn't .

It'll deter an opportunist, but if anyone is specifically targeting your 110 will take it regardless. Any security is better than none, the steering lock will slow them down but I'm not so sure being faced with a blank boss would hinder them much. Saying that I've looked into them too, some bosses are quite deep due to their locking mechanism and I've read that they can get loose and wobble through time which given the load on a defender steering wheel (even with PAS) won't be ideal. I remember a kit from back in the day that had a security boss that you could lock the wheel onto in the boot to save you from carrying the wheel about with you, no idea if such a kit still exists. Any clever thief may bring their own wheel....

A few procedures on the defender require the use of a dial gauge wrench rather than a conventional click. "Click" ones indicate a tightening torque whereas the "dial" types indicate a rotational torque (ideal for pulleys/crush bearings etc). If you're planning to do some rebuild work then it's a worthwhile investment. I bought a 3/8" torqueleader one, it's came in handy a few times. It's also useful for working out how tight a fastener is before loosening if you don't have the data to re-torque.

Take plenty of measurements at the door openings etc, if you're replacing 90% of the panels then it has a high chance of falling out of square (well, as square as a defender can be). Nothing worse than nice and shiny but won't line up when it comes to rebuilding. I replaced the floor, top hat rails, outer wings, rear quarter panels and new b-pillar panels on my 90 tub which is slightly less involved compared to the 110. I did the floor section first, then the outer wings and rear quarter panels. After that I did the b-pillar repairs, during each process I tried to keep its measurements as close to the original...and it all went back together with relative ease.

I like the BFG KM2 muds that I have in my 90. Fitted to LR boost alloys 265/75r16 in size, look and perform well.

Found this website via an ad on EBay which listed the conversion for a 90 to an LS3 for £28k+vat....looks beautifully done. http://www.thewildcatgroup.com/v8defender/ http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=261971057494&globalID=EBAY-GB

Having had a closer look at mine the reflector bowls are screwed on to the circuit board so it "should" be possible to change the reflector on each bank of 6 to either flood or spot..no idea where you'd purchase them though

It's more white than warm but not chav-blue. It's fitted on the bumper of my transit (12reg) in line with the headlights just under the large ford badge. It blends quite well into the grill assembly. The beam patterns are not adjustable but I think you can ask them to supply full flood or full spot pattern bars.

Take off the outer waist seal and with a long piece of welding wire/coat hangar....go fishing. If you know the rudimentary operation of the catch then you'll know what and where to aim for....use the drivers side one for reference if need be. Sounds as though the linkage has popped off the mechanism.

I assume someone may just have had a bad day down there. My original winch bumper was showing as stock when I ordered it and to be fair they (D4x4) called me the next day to say it was out of stock and would be a considerable wait to have one fabricated, I opted for another style they had in stock and had it within 24hrs. Any local exhaust fabricators should be able to knock up a side exit tail piece, you could even do it yourself if you can weld.

Are the spring returns still attached (either old style straight or td5 type)? When the pedal is on the floor is it "actuated" ie are the gears engaging with no drive, or is it not working the clutch at all? Have you taken the access panel off the top of the housing (6 screws inside the engine compartment side) to check the rod adjustment at the master cylinder?

I haven't really had a chance to test it on the road yet, my eyes were used to going from the standard(poor) dipped to the bright spotlight assisted main beam so I don't think it will greatly affect my sight. I do lots of night driving on call out on unlit and seldom trafficked roads so main beam is on most of the time.Here's the link to the one I got, there are loads to choose from this one at least came from a UK address... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141690354419?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Not specifically LR related but there's not a lot of reviews on the eBay specials. My works van has had Hella Luminators 3000s since new and are my spotlight of choice but I thought I'd have a punt on a 31" Chinese special. Standard dipped beam Main beam with lightbar Overall not too bad, it has a wider spread as it has the combo flood/spot array. Build quality appears acceptable but time will tell. It cost £53 delivered so less than half the price of one of my chrome Luminators. It's also a bit less "in your face" than my spots were.

Welcome along, always a wealth of knowledge available on here

Would a m10x1 blanking plug do the job? Like this.. https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/214611225/blanking-plug-for-master-cylinder-m10x1-now-with-bolt-head/?gclid=CNvtpvHEs8cCFS3ItAodwqINcg

Have you checked the rod inside the master cylinder is actually moving? When you bleed the system at the slave cylinder does pumping the pedal give you a squirt of fluid or no change at all?

Yes, no spare on the door regardless of carrier type does make a world of difference. I had mine without the spare for a few weeks after completing (waiting on the carrier) and it was just as easy as the front doors.