orangemach5

RPR, are you thinking of YORK compressors by any chance? They make the a/c compressors that have a wet sump so no need for grease nipple mods etc! Got one in the garage ready to fit to the RR, get round to it one day!

Yup sizes spot on western, 22mm-7/8" 24mm-15/16"

Ive recently had a few problems with the rear door (boot) on the companies freelander. Every now and then the door wont open, when you pull the handle the window drops down a few mm like it should but it doesnt pop the latch. Im assuming that the switch is AOK as the window still drops, is there a common known fault with the latch assembly's or harness breaking problems???

It is indeed the panhard rod!

Try to be as careful as you can be when undoing the bolts that hold it to the front of the head! Ive had a couple snap when doing a rebuild and they were a royal b**tard to get out. Bearing in mind i was working on the head on a bench, so i wouldnt want to attempt drilling on one insitu!

All the white staining on the rockercover hints at a coolant leak somewhere. The liquid in the pic looks too thin to be oil so i would check the heater hoses that run above that rocker cover carefully! Maybe just a pin prick hole in one of the hoses, have you been losing any coolant?

Although i dont compete, ive been using 125' of 11mm Plasma 12 from Andy on my standard 8274-50 and have found it to be superb!!! Very happy with it!

I would give both Mark at West 4x4 and Brooklyn 4x4 a call, iv'e had good dealings with both and neither are too far away from you.

Dan, Ive got diagnostic's which go on the freebe, if you want i can pop around one evening after work to check all sensor values are active and check for faults etc etc, just let me know!

Just make sure the air box has no openings smaller than the turbo inlet, if poss i would go 1/2" bigger than the turbo inlet and treat that as a minimum just to be on the safe side!

Top and bottom hoses - Use original 200tdi defender parts (the defender 200 tdi sits in the same place as the disco tdi will.) With regards to the air, when i did a N/A to disco tdi conversion i just removed the original filter assy and souced a 3.5 efi rr airbox which just has hose in and out. The efi airbox is quite compact, you will struggle to fit the disco tdi airbox in as its gigantic!!

Did you make sure that the torque converter was definatly all the way home into the pump, its quite common to bolt the box up, start the engine and the converter just rips the pump drive to pieces when its not located properly.

Ive got Optimas, Red top for starting and general electrickery and Yellow top for the winch and inverter, ill admit they are a bit pricey but in my opinion you cant beat em! What i found when looking around for optimas is that the price varies greatly from one place to another! so if you shop around a bit and are patient you can get some good deals!

Swivel preload is correct (One i my first thoughts ) and the steering damper is new (cellular dynamic doodad!) Whats everyones thoughts on the panhard rod? Is the rose joint too brutal?

I shall check the axle bracket tomorrow. The wobble comes in at about 35mph under any circumstances and shakes the whole vehicle violently (pretty un-controllable!). It goes about 45mph and comes back mildly at about 65mph and goes after! Its definatly the front end!!!

I had a similar problem with the sprocket being stuck on a 300 when doing a cambelt. Broke severall pullers etc etc. In the end i had to split the sprocket in half with a chisel (suprisingly easy!), they arent that expensive to replace!

I have the dreaded death wobble (death being serious ) on my rr, i thought it may have been wheels and tyres and so i changed them for disco alloys and road tyres. Result! it drove great, no shakes and no wobbles at all. Thats sorted then its the wheels/tyres! Errrrrr NO! Put my maxxis and wheels on my mates 90 and it drives fine! The first thing people say when a Death wobble is mentioned, ahh that will be panhard rod bushes, i have an adjustable panhard rod with poly bush one and and rose joint the other(ive heard bad things about this combo!). Could this be my problem that there isnt enough give in the rod and so everything is transmitted to the chassis (and me! ) I can get an adjustable one with bushes both ends, worth a try?? Cheers Paul

No throttle cable Wallace, all fantastic fly by wire!

I dont know of any replacement aftermarket filter boxes that will simply go in place. You could keep your eye out for a 3.5 carb 90/110 airbox which has a tee piece that sits in pretty much the same place as the original airbox but uses a more conventional cylindrical element filter housing remote mounted with a section of hose. etc. Other solution (cheapest!) is just make your own, few lengths of air hose and any old traditional air box

Whats the problem with sticking a pair of k&n's on the carbs? Surely its ideal especially if its used mainly for road use, i cant see it upsetting the lpg???

I always use 20/50 in the V8's, does the oil light go out after you blip the throttle (shouldnt be distance related! )?. The 20/50 is a lot thicker and will make the engines top end quieter.

Could of been anything as simple as a bit of dodgy fuel, or water in the fuel that has now passed! I wish things fixed themselves for me sometimes

Ive been using the x-arms on my truck for a few weeks now, i can honestly say they are fantastic!!!

Did you notice whether there was any smoke when it was missing? Could be the headgasket gone between two cylinders. If so you will be getting copious amounts of white unburnt fuel out of the exhaust.

The relay is either located where bogmonster says, or its behind the screenwash bottle on the bulkhead.