orangemach5

Ive always used repackable silencers, put the muffler wool in! If its too quiet, unbolt the end of the silencer take some wool out. If its too loud, unbolt the end and put some more wool in!! Endlessly tunable!!!

LOL, Ive heard they can be a royal pain! Looks like a phone call to Gigglepin for a mainshaft kit, their brake lining and depending on my bank managers mood an XP motor

Landrovers overdraft simply cant stretch far enough for waxoil!!!

Found this in another topic on here ref fitting beadlock wheels with tyres!!! For the bolts get yourself an air powered ratchet and run it at low air. That should give you the 5-10 lb/ft you need. You also want a few longer bolts to squeeze the ring down a bit first.

Ive seen them often when trawling through Eblag.

Use a composite valley gasket along with composite head gaskets, they seal soo much better! Real steel is a good place to get V8 bits and bobs and are very helpfull over the phone, however i have aways given RPi a ring when i need bits (where the parts from my last 3.9 cam and top end rebuild came from).

Ive never had a problem with the bellhousing or the trasferbox to gearbox bolts shearing, i think the only time you would have problems is if a bolt has been crossthreaded and just wound in (cowboy styleee!), i think thats pretty unlikely though.

The slave cylinder is a dead easy job with the engine and box in anyway, not worth changing while your there!

Hi all, While out playing yesterday, whilst winching my mates 90 out of a bog i realised i have a strange problem with the brake on my 8274. When spooling out (power out or freespool) the outer ratchet ring of the brake seems to wobble about and as a result eash revolution you get a horrible click. It is only the second recovery i have made and the only mods i have is rufftraks 11mm plasma. What could be causing the brake ratchet ring to wobble (the centre of the brake seems to run true!) and not run true especially with this little use???? The brake still works well and when winching in it all seems normal! Help!!!!

Check the preload on the steering swivels (fixed the problem in my case!) and check the panhard rod bushes carefully, if in any doubt just change them!

How may of these 4mm spacers do you think you would need? You would have to be careful as any more than and your wheel studs will become too short, whereas on the more expensive say 30mm spacers they contain their own set of studs so this wouldnt be a problem!

X-Arms are the way forward!!!

http://www.wak-tt.com/tyres/tyresizecalc.htm That gives you the diameter of metric tyres, why dont you just measure the width of your current tyres??

I havent had one snap but ive had to replace one due to rot, i think Wizardbilt do them. However when i needed one i gave steve at brooklyn 4x4 a call and he got me one in for the next day, IIRC it was something stupid like £6+vat. I think britpart actually list them, so anywhere that stocks britpart should be able to get it in for you!

Been there, done that!! All 4 front radius arms did the same thing with me ! Lots of copper slip so i never have to do it again!!!

I would give Kimber Friction a bell, we use them every day and they should be able to post if your too far! 02380 226577

I too have a gravity fed gun from MachineMart, for my purposes its great, nice finish and easy to clean! Mine was around the £40 mark IIRC. I would have gravity fed over suction any day, feel much nicer to use (more balanced me thinks) and i find them easier to maintain and clean. My compressor specs are the same as yours and it copes no problem!

Rpi seem to like these, pretty sure they should know by now On RPI's ebay shop http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hella-High-torque-ge...210129003r22472

Hi all, i have been reading up on here and have been convinced that a 2.8 isuzu is the way forward in repowering Range rover which is currently powered by a Perkins 4.182 3.0 turbo (pretty bad blowby and lots of general niggles that im not happy with!). I am going to have a look at an engine for sale tomorrow and i have had a chat with the guy whos selling it and he's told me that it is the Cambelt driven engine and not the gear driven import engine! The engine has a proper conversion kit for the rr lt77 and comes with a lt77! My question is, do the isuzu's have a nice sealed in timing cover like the 200 and 300tdi? My only concern is that they have just a plastic cover type affair, which of course be prone to water ingress and grit etc will destroy the belt and idlers etc. I know theres a fair few Isuzu gurus on here, so please enlighten me!

Ive got a 40mm body lift and a 5" suspension lift, but you dont need anywhere near that much! Just me being immature!! If your feeling enthusiastic you could always extend and reshape your inner wings on the front and jumbo size your wheel wells on the back. Then a set of flared arches! The D44 Bobtail had this done and was only running a 2" spring lift IIRC!!

With regards to starting without glow plugs, we have had a 200tdi and 2 300tdi's (currently still have 1) and both start (ed) first flick of the key in the morning with no heat!

Yes, i think this would be a much better bet! Kipor are a big company and they manufacture all the big gensets so you can be assured they know their stuff!!! Also being a large company i should imagine that if you did on the offchance need parts that it wouldnt be a problem, wheras i dont think this would be the case with manufacturers like wolf etc.

As JST says, you would be better off fitting a k&n type element in the original airbox, cone filters are far too noisey and can get very annoying!!! The answer to you question is no, the 300 tdi has the compressor side of the turbo pointing towards the rear of the engine, whereas the 200 turbo is the other way around with the compressor housing facing the front.

Yes, i have lubed the latch and it all lovely and free. I think it could be an electrical problem like the solenoid is getting weak, is the solenoid that actually opens the door part of the latch (like most are these days!! ) or is it a stand alone solenoid?

There is hundreds of different variations of these about, all branded differently. If you take a look on ebay you wil notice how many different brands there is, but if you look at the machines aside from colours etc they are the same machine, all made in china. For not a lot more money (maybe less!) you can get hold of a Kipor set which are good quality for the money, theres usully a few on ebay too!