darthdicky

Thanks both, I'm doing it in place so won't rivet it together just yet and will install bit by bit. Will also get some silkaflex and have some nuts and bolts handy to temporarily hold it together too. Richard

The discussion is probably over now but if it helps, the two magazines I now subscribe to are Evo and Adventure Bike Rider. Both put photography at the top of the list - the photos are stunning and they use decent paper so they look good Both focus on the story behind things as well as the technical detail, with decent writing. ABR has a lot of stories written by readers which are really good ABR only does 6 issues a year, LR mags could be far better with a less-is-more approach too - give them some time to find some decent content Both have accepted the internet is the way forward and have websites and social media presence that make you want to read the magazine too, even if most of the story/news is available online. Engage your readers and they'll stay subscribers - the LR mags always seemed reluctant to bridge the gap Admittedly Evo has a far larger subscriber base and budget and ABR seems to be produced amazingly well on what is probably a shoestring, but there's a lot to be learnt from them both Richard

I know it's from a few years ago but any helpful tips on doing this one? I've bought the parts from YRM and need to attack it in the new year! Is the only part that needs drilling out the 9 rivets on top of the transmission tunnel alongside the gearbox? Is it best to rivet the whole thing together first and then mount it, or assemble in place and rivet after? Have you painted it with anything to protect it? Any other tips that might save me some headaches? Cheers, Rich

Also, I seem to be missing a spacer to go between the bearing and the tightening nut. Am I right in thinking there should be one of these in there? http://www.brookwell.co.uk/products/DISCOVERY_1/all/300TDI/Front_Axle/Front_Hubs/Hub_Spacer Richard

Okay, got the parts today and put a new stub axle together using the seal FTC5268 as that's what looked like it was in the old one (although it's hard to see without pulling it apart) and the bearing went in fine. Put it on the vehicle and it it feels like the seal or bearing is tighter on the CV than before - it still turns but with much more resistance and the end of the CV doesn't protrude far enough out of the stub axle to stick the circlip on. Is this a problem or is it likely to settle into the right position after a drive? It doesn't seem right but I don't know whether that's normal or something is wrong? It's real pain not knowing the axle number as there seems to be two different types of seal and no real way to tell which one is supposed to be used. Can anyone shed any light on this? It's a J reg Discovery axle as far as I know and has a 10 spline diff. Rich

I've got all new parts so don't need to worry about getting the old one out, but will stick the new bearing in the freezer to hopefully make that easier to get in. Parts will turn up tomorrow so I'm assuming it's pretty obvious which way the bearing and seal fits in? Richard

Thanks Les, I'm pretty comfortable with those bits, it's just the internal parts of the stub axle and the order they go in that I'm not so sure on. I've consulted Haynes and it says "if renewal is necessary, the task should be entrusted to a Land Rover dealer" which isn't particularly helpful! Rich

I've got a Discovery axle on the front of my Defender and the stub axle is knackered. I've bought what I think is all the right replacement bits - stub, inner seal, needle bearing, CV bush and outer seal like this, but not in a kit from Britpart: http://www.britpart.com/all-parts/da3194/. Has anyone got any tips, diagrams or photos on how it all fits together? I could strip down the old one to figure it out but I wanted to keep that in one piece as an emergency spare. Cheers, Rich

Good point, I haven't tried removing it yet but will have a go. Also discovered that the new Hazard relay is clicking all the time whilst the ignition is on, whether the indicators are on or not. Starting to wonder whether the hazard switch is at fault? I suspected the relay as it seemed to be sticking - when I gave it a tap it would continue working for a short while before sticking again. Could the switch failing have that effect? Richard

Can anyone enlighten me as to what the second relay from the right is for in a 1991 90? It gets very hot on a drive and although everything still seems to work, I'm just wondering why it gets hot? It's too much to leave my finger on it more than 2 seconds, which just doesn't seem right. Also, I've just changed the hazard/indicator flasher relay and now the trailer light warning flashes in time with the indicator light. It used to do this occasionally with the old relay but I'm wondering if it's the relay or a short circuit somewhere? Seem to remember having issues with it before when the trailer wiring was full of mud? Any thoughts welcome! Richard

Thanks Ralph but I think that's the same one as I've got already. How about the rear axle, were the bolts under the diff nose any different on those? Richard

Cheers for the thoughts all, as I've got a collection of what should be the right bolts I'm starting to wonder whether the rear axle on there is an mid-80's Range Rover one, if they were any different? One thing I haven't tried is swapping a bolt from the front guard to the back, I might give that a go this weekend as that'll show whether it's different to a Defender/Disco one. I'm sure the right sized bolts will be cheaper than a Helicoil, I just need to figure out what the right sized bolt is! Richard

I've got a QT diff guard which I'd like to fit again, but have lost the bolt that fits underneath the diff nose. It seems these are a strange thread which changed partway through production and as such, I've got no idea what I need. I've ended up with 2 lots of bolts that all seem the same, the latest ones with part number SH406062. These don't fit my diff which I think is quite an early one, they're too big. Can anyone confirm what the part number or size and thread I need for an early diff, and where I can get them at reasonable cost? Thanks, Richard

The part number looked like it once did but someone had put a black blob of pen over it, and for something that's a pain to change over I wasn't going to risk it, especially as the stamping on it looked like a brand I'd never heard of. Will try Replace-a-part/Devon4x4 at the weekend Richard

Cheers guys, I went to Brookwells today but wasn't overly impressed. The front prop I have is marked as FRC8390 so I asked for 2 UJ's for that. They had a cheap option at about £5, an OEM option for £9 and a genuine option for £51. I asked for the OEM one but they came out in a blue box and the markings on them certainly weren't GKN so I left it. I can't remember the part number but the parts person gave me but I think it was the 82mm wide version, although having measured it up the yokes on mine are about 82mm which seems to make the current UJ about 75mm across the cups? Does that sound right? Can anyone confirm exactly which part number I need? Thanks, Richard

Will do Mo! Ross, do you mean this one? http://www.diy.com/departments/hozelock-lance-pressure-sprayer-5l/174739_BQ.prd £30 is more than I was looking to spend, but if the £8 cheapo ones don't work then I don't want to waste money on them.

It's been a while since I've needed to buy parts and since the local 4x4Store was bought out and moved elsewhere the prices seem to have jumped up. Where's best to get decent bits like UJ's, wheel bearings etc. these days with reasonable postage? Richard

Where's best to get a decent one of these? Got to change the diff and transfer box oil soon and would welcome anything that makes it easier! Something like this? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pump-Action-Pressure-Sprayer-fertilizer/dp/B000TAWBBC/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoors&ie=UTF8&qid=1455360783&sr=1-1&keywords=kingfisher+sprayer Or are there far better ones available elsewhere? Richard

Mine is behind the passenger seat in a 90, there's space between that and the bulkhead and the seat can still slide almost to it's rearmost position. Fuel is easy to get from the tank, exhaust goes out the bottom and under the sill, air intake goes into the battery box and it blows air up the outlet pipe level with the top of the bulkhead and I can swivel the outlet in whichever direction I want - perfect! Can still fit stuff behind the seat too, although only stuff that doesn't mind getting hot! Edited to add a photo from when I was trying to suss out dimensions - I did clean everything up before fitting it! Richard

Thanks, I probably should have waited longer for answers! I've ordered one of the Enduroline ones which looks suspiciously similar to the Numax and will see how that lasts. Richard

Where did you get them from James and which model? The one I have seems to be discontinued? https://www.tayna.co.uk/Numax-CXV-X-1000-Amp-P7632.html It seems that mine is dead, although it starts fine from cold it's incapable of reliably re-starting a hot engine!

Thanks guys, never assume anything when it comes to me and electrics! I hadn't considered the switch so took that off, cleaned up the connections and tightened it up again and it's all working again. Also useful to know it's not part of the MOT test if I can't get it working next year! Richard

Got the MOT on Saturday so thought I'd test out the lights which always seem to fail at this time of year. Fixed most but I can't figure out the reverse light. The bulb is fine as is the fuse and I seem to be getting 11.7v at the fusebox but only 0.2v at the wire in the rear tub. Where might the volts be disappearing to? I've followed the green/brown wire back to the chassis and it all looks fine. I don't really want to cut it to test what the voltage is there as it's likely to become a weak spot in future. Any suggestions for an electrical numpty?

There are a few nice lanes near Dawlish but most are fairly tight, especially at this time of year. Dartmoor has a few nice wider ones which are all signposted pretty well on the ground, probably enough for a day trip. There are also some very tight ones but most have a notice warning about the width at the start! If you haven't already been and gone then let me know and I'll try to point out some less scratchy ones. Richard

Just put my photos up here which should hopefully be visible to everyone. Cheers to Steve for having me along!