darthdicky

Have you got a photo or thread about this Mo? I could do with a bit more space

Also check this out for amazing photos around the Torridon area: http://www.stevecarter.com/gallery1/MyFaves.htm

A picture tells a thousand words...

https://www.evo.co.uk/features/14421/old-military-road-scotland-ultimate-driving-destinations?amp A93 and A939 up the middle of the Cairngorms, through Braemar and Cock Bridge (sadly someone had taken down the sign last time I went!)

That looks fantastic Steve! Mine has the banjo fittings on the front and works fine

Keep an eye in your mirrors and let the bikers past 😁 No particular recommendations, I thought it was all fab really. The West is probably more stunning but the East was still great - the Old Military Road is worth a trip. If you fancy a trip over to Arran I enjoyed the tour round here: https://www.arranwhisky.com/our-distillery/visit-us and I had no interest in Whiskey!

It’s apart! Apparently the Gigglepin shaft needs drifting out by tapping on the small cam gear. Of course, mine was quite stuck and took some hitting to get it apart but it’s finally in pieces and ready to work out what needs replacing. The worst part to get off was the shim which the circlip sits against - I think there was a tiny bit of damage to the edge (may have been me, may have already been there) which stopped it sliding over the end cleanly. Whilst the needle bearing allows the shaft to rotate smoothly I think I’ll replace it at the same time as it’s clearly had some water in it at some point.

It's a Gigglepin shaft so not standard, and their pictures online don't show me quite enough detail to be confident in how it all fits together. I'll drop them an email. Thanks for the offer but I've got the parts manuals from Warn, it's just the non-standard bits I need to figure out...

Also for future reference, the black cap on the end isn’t secured with anything, it was just rusted onto the end. Could have just hit it sideways with a hammer and made my life a lot easier!

Soaking it in penetrating oil, heat and a bigger puller did the trick and the brake is now off. Didn’t seem to be a huge amount of corrosion but clearly enough to keep it stuck on. All the bits look fine but need a good clean up. Brake pads still look pretty good to me but I might replace them as I think I have some spares. There is a little bit of play in the bearing/bush that holds the shaft in place so I’m assuming that needs replacing as it shouldn’t move laterally at all? I’ve removed the circlip inside and lifted the drum retainer thing up but the shaft still doesn’t want to come out. Is there anything else holding it in?

Puller turned up but it wasn’t the instant fix I was hoping for. Hoping that the bolt in the end is engaging with the shaft rather than another part of the brake? And I’m assuming that the lack part is just a cap, not that it wants to come off either. Have left it under tension and will try to apply some heat tomorrow, hoping I’ll return in the morning and find it has relented!

Looks really good! Are you planning to paint the casing? Mine is in pretty good condition but it is corroding in a few spots so I'm wondering whether to clean it up and give it a coat of something. Got the motor off with a few gentle taps with a soft mallet tonight. Looks like there's been a little bit of moisture in there but it all moves freely and looks clean. Will give it a blow through with the air line and a squirt with some electrical cleaner. Gave the brake a few taps and some more plusgas but still no movement. Puller should arrive at some point this week which should get it off. Gigglepin suggested a liberal spray with WD40 when it's back together to stop the brake pads welding themselves to the plates.

That's good progress - you've clearly got the kit to deal with it! Have ordered a puller to give mine a go but it doesn't look anywhere near as beefy as yours. Hoping it just needs a little persuasion as the brake was working fine about 6 months ago. I can always put it back on the vehicle at some point and lower it out to free it off if needs be. Thanks for the motor info Steve - was considering trying to twist it to break the seal but I'll avoid that if there's dowels in there.

Started pulling it apart today and have a few more questions: Is the motor only held on by the 2 end bolts all the way through? I've removed those and the freespool gear from the side and it won't budge. Don't want to start whacking it if there's something else holding it on. Looks like it's just RTV round the joint, but worth checking. The bolt came out of the brake fine, but the brake itself is not coming off. Have had a look inside and it doesn't look like there's anything else holding it on, but again worth checking before I start hitting it any harder. Have sprayed the whole thing with plusgas so hopefully will find it has sprung apart tomorrow. The brake was working fine when I last used it so it shouldn't be too seized up. The mainshaft has some play in it side to side and up and down which according to Gigglepin may be the bronze bush that needs replacing. I need to get some larger circlip pliers before I can get that out and inspect it. On the Delta-tek drum it looks like there's only a seal, no bushes to replace at all? The oil came out rather yellow so I think it's got a bit of water in it at some point, but the gears all look good so it should just need a clean up, few new seals and stick it back together again. But that assumes I can get it apart first...

Commercial vehicles must have different rules though - there’s plenty of trucks out there, even the smaller 3.5t Isuzu/Nissan ones which this could compete with

I thought the pin which comes in horizontally on mine was stuck in but it turns out it isn’t spring loaded, it’s pushed in by the throttle. Worth noting if you are trying to free things up in there. Rich

I like it, I’m probably not the target market but may be interested in one at 5-6yrs old as a second vehicle for travel further afield. If they do well from this then hopefully it’s just a starting point for a wider range of vehicles - I like the FC idea although it probably isn’t the best choice as a debut vehicle. If the platform is adaptable enough then all sorts of variants could easily be produced.

Just spent all morning reading this and it looks absolutely fantastic. Love the colour and the effort put into doing things properly. Looks better than many would do with full workshop facilities - doing it on the driveway is incredible! Rich

Let me know how you get on, mine is still sat on the bench awaiting some enthusiasm for disassembly... Thanks Steve, hoping it’s not full of dust but will give it a blow through and a squirt or two with some contact cleaner if it’s messy.

If you're driving from Belgium to Sweden and back again, rent one from Belgium as you'll bring it back with you? I saw loads of box trailer rental type things at fuel stations in Finland - seemed like a great idea but I may have misunderstood what it was? Looked like u-haul in the US, not sure whether that idea has spread through the rest of Europe? One way van hire here: https://fr.autoeurope.be/index.cfm?c=4877 Got to agree with the buy a truck option, I'm going to do my C licence just incase this sort of situation arises in future (and for fun!)

Having had one I'd think very carefully about whether you really want one, or whether an electric winch would do what you need it to? The overload clutch in the PTO is sensitive to setup, and seems quite easy to go from cutting out under load and needing to re-rig or double line, or snap the chain if done up too tightly. That was a fun one to get out of when that snapped, as it was impossible to release the tension on the rope without getting another vehicle to take the weight off! The PTO hangs below the chassis rails unless you clock it round to one side (if you have space), as I found when I snapped one in two on a tree stump. PTO's aren't cheap and the one place that used to refurbish them I think closed when the owner died a few years back. I had a sturdy guard made up to protect the new one which was a lovely piece of kit, but not an off the shelf design. The bearings and UJ's are quite pricey (if still available), and sit in the worst of the muck so can wear quite quickly and are a pain to grease. They also rattle as they get a bit of wear in them, adding to the noises as you drive. They can also make a right racket and vibrate as you use it, and whilst in theory you could stick it in 5th and give it a load of revs to spool in quickly, unless perfectly balanced you really wouldn't want to. They can be used with synthetic rope but you'd need a custom fairlead made up as the roller ones can pinch the rope. Drive assist is possible, but is painfully slow as using low first spins the wheels at say 5mph, where the winch is pulling at a tiny fraction of that. It leads to lots of shifting between neutral to get the rope in the right place, then low to drive assist a bit, then neutral etc. Yes they should be strong enough to pull anything (if set up right), but there are times when drive assisting is necessary and the speed difference is huge. As you may have guessed, I had one and don't any more. I bought it at the time to try and save some money and not follow the crowd, as I didn't want the cost and complexity of extra batteries, wiring, alternator etc. I should have just got an electric one as it would have probably cost less in the long run and worked when I needed it. If you're able to deal with the engineering side of things and modify stuff to fit, find alternative bearings, UJ's etc. then they can be a fantastic thing (as most of the guys posting above have shown). If you just want a winch to do a bit of light recovery, go for something else! Richard

Cheers, I think both of those have already been done on mine - it certainly has an R clip on the freespool and I think the Gigglepin shaft gets rid of the circlip and uses a bolt instead. Having been through a few "how to" rebuild guides online they're quite a simple design, but any hints and tips would be useful as I don't have a perfect one to compare to

I've taken mine off for a bit of a clean up, oil change and check over. Is there anything that should be replaced as a matter of course whilst it's apart? Should the mainshaft/brake assembly have some play in it up and down, or is the bearing it runs on worn on mine? I've seen mention of cleaning out the motor brushes, anyone got any instructions on how best to do this? What's best to clean the brake components up with? It all works fine, I just want to make sure any seals are sealing oil in and water out and that it's not going to let me down when I need it next. It's got a Bow2 motor, the Gigglepin mainshaft and brake pads and Delta-tek freespool drum already so I don't think it needs any further upgrades. Richard

Just found out that the serpentine belt which is a 7PK1629 also seems to be the Alternator Drive Belt on 4.4 V8 Petrol Range Rovers - LR part numbers LR051050 or PQS000100G

Having done it the "quick" way just undoing the 7 bolts each side, if you haven't got any help nearby and are not in a hurry (eg. mid competition) I'd suggest taking it to pieces. It was a real pig to get mine back together due to the weight and awkward shape of everything. If I have to do it again I'll go the "slow" way just to avoid doing myself an injury trying to get the thing back together!