mickeyw

At the risk of complicating matters - air suspension would enable you to level the truck in the situations you describe

Kitchen worktops are 600mm deep, so visualise that as a comparison point. I'd say Barry is about right, room for carp at the back, and still room for a transfer box being worked on. Materials (board) available may influence decision too.

Aren't these type of check straps intended for use when jacking up a vehicle with extra long travel suspension, rather than for on road/track use? Happy to be told I'm wrong

I've had a Gunson automotive multimeter for many years, similar to this one. It has a pickup from HT leads to provide RPM and dwell angle readings. Also has a useful temperature thermocouple, which comes in handy when you have doubts about your engine temperature gauge! Does more than I'll ever need, and is really robust.

Don't think this will quite gain him the required 5 inches though

Thanks for the link Nige, it seems www.bigdug.co.uk works better

I fitted the 300Tdi pedal assembly to my V8 90 years ago, and it did make a noticeable difference. However it still wasn't enough to save my clutch knee from the effects of a day's driving. Heavy traffic or off road driving, not sure which was worse. In the end I opted to remove the clutch pedal all together

Interesting to hear to opposite experiences of this style of roofing. I can only guess the location, and other environmental factors must play a part. The drilling walls problem is exactly as I envisage. I am considering the idea of using Gripfil or similar to fix insulation and stud work to the concrete, then screw boards to the studs. I am not thinking of hanging huge weights from this, yes I know Lin Bins can get pretty heavy, so I'll probably need to rethink that one . Shelving would definitely need to be free standing, that'll be the next thing to scour the auction sites and scrap yards for.

With all the current topics about workshops going on, I have some more areas to chew over. If all goes to plan, I shall be the custodian of a pre-cast sectional concrete double garage in a few weeks time. It has a pitched roof of corrugated cement fibre sheets, supported by a fairly light weight steel framework. The main door is an electric roller shutter, and there is a timber personnel door in the side. Dimensions are 15' wide x 20' long. Unfortunately the clearance under the door is only 5'11", (luckily I'm about 5'10" tall) and 6'6" under the roof beams, so no chance of getting the Ninety or RRC in there. There is however, space for a car port next to the garage As I intend to house my lathe and mill in there, as well as all my other tools, I'd like to do what I can to insulate/reduce damp. In my current brick built garage I find the machinery goes rusty as soon as the damp weather sets in. I spend a lot of time and money cleaning and spraying with anti rust products. I'd also like to have an interior wall that is suitable for accepting fixings for various lighter weight items, such as power sockets, tool boards, and even Lin Bin racking if the strength permits. Now it seems that Celotex or similar is a popular method of wall and roof insulation, but what do people use to cover over that for an internal surface? Also how would be best to fix everything to the concrete walls? I'm thinking some 2" studs every so often will be necessary, but can I drill through the concrete to secure them, or will it just crack the concrete? The exterior has a red brick pattern to it, so I'd prefer not to mess with the appearance of that if possible. Also I recall that Fridge Freezer added a damp proof membrane between the timber walls and the insulation in his inventing shed. Is that necessary in this instance? I shall still have the main door for drafts to get under/around. As for the roof, I guess the Celotex can be fixed between the roof steels. As the roof sheets are corrugated, there is an automatic air gap that cannot be avoided. Is this good or bad? I guess now would also be a good time to shout out for any suitable materials going spare/cheap in the Gatwick area. All discussion welcome.

Welcome to LR4x4

So glad we haven't banned banter round here. Also good that we can have a laugh at the expense of the A&M team, well one in particular anyway I am on my second screen in 19 years, first one had too many bullet holes for the MOT man's liking. The current one is scratched to **** and makes driving into the sun an interesting experience. Won't need to replace it till next year I guess, as the sun has gone away for the winter One advice Nige, get someone else to fit it, preferable someone who is familiar and successful with the job. I have seen it done, and it can look dead easy. Still don't fancy doing it myself though.

I tried polishing the seal area on one of my sector shafts. It certainly Seemed hardened to me.

Ah ha! I was at this stage a few months ago with a box in similar condition. I ended up fitting a good second hand box for sake of speed and simplicity. Depending on the depth of the scoring I feel it might be possible to clean the surface on on a cylindrical grinder, without removing too much to stop a new seal running happily on that surface. However as VB has said, grind, chrome, grind would be the correct way to effect this kind of repair

Very pretty Nige. Is that your excuse for staying indoors today?

Swivel hubs are handed, that is how castor angle is set. Castor is what makes the steering self centre. As best I can remember the oil filler plugs are at the front of the housing.

I just bought a pair that look the same as the OP pictured. Quality is excrement at best, cheaply made and even cheaper looking. They are not that shallow, but the lamp and reflector unit is, so no idea why they need such a larger outer bowl. Having decided I didn't like them I bough a set of Wipac 6" 4x4 spots from Paddocks. They are much shallower and far better made. http://www.paddockspares.com/s6015-6inch-100w-stainless-steel-driving-lamps-pair.html I was briefly tempted by some rectangular IPF spots, but TBH I don't want to spend that much on lights that may get broken off road. The reason for buying 6" was to clear my new TDS9500 that sits above the bumper level. My spots are mounted on a A-bar, and the old 7" Ring Phazers that I've had for years weren't going to squeeze in there any more Anyone want some scruffy 7" spots? They still give good light output despite the reflectors having seen better days. Free to anyone that collects or pays postage.

I remember High Wycombe show, went there are few times. Wow, so long ago I'd forgotten about it! Run by Off Road & 4WD magazine IIRC.

Bill i never made any mods to mine. I rebuilt it circa 80k miles because the bearings had become noisy, but tbh the insides looked like new, as did the mainshaft bearings. They had just got a bit rumbly, and the noise was amplified through the box. I used genuine bearings (£50 each!), although as specials it seems no general bearing manufacturers were licensed to make them. It was quieter after the rebuild, for perhaps another 40k miles before it begun to get a little noisy again. This does make me wonder whether as James suggests some fancy oil would have been beneficial. I've seen a couple of broken split case versions. In both instances the casing had fractured and allowed the gears out of mesh, or maybe it was the other way around? I run auto these days, and enjoy it most of the time, but I still had the manual moth balled away in case I fancied swapping back.

I believe the general view is that the split casing itself doesn't offer the support to the shafts that the solid case can provide. My 1986 model had a solid case

Er, and 90s :-) The gate on the LT85 is wide and agricultural, but rather less so that the LT95. Fast gear changes will not be on tap, but hang on... this is a Landrover! It is true the V8 will trundle along in top at very low revs, beautifully smooth.

You don't say what capacity V8 you have. V8 110s built a little later than yours had the LT85. This had the benefit of being 5 speed and strong, not as strong as the LT95 but still very good. The gear shift is rather agricultural compared to a modern R380, but certainly an improvement on the LT95. They came in two versions, the stronger one piece case, and a split case 'lightweight' design. Both types had a tendency for mainshaft bearings to become noisy, but they keep on working fine. These units were built for the V8 models so gear ratios should be ideal. Finding one now could be the issue though.

I have only once been to a LR show at Peterborough, yonks ago, and I don't think it was the same show they run now. This is the first year I have missed Billing since I started going, although I do wonder why I bothered at least the last 2 times I went. Oh hang on there was a good reason last year, I bought a X-pedal lock . Si, you are one of a very small number of companies in attendance that offer goods I would actually buy. I miss the like of DLS, Craddocks et al. I used to pick up a load of the smaller LR consumable and service items from them. I've done Eastnor once, a few years back, mind. It's not exactly local for me, but I enjoyed it as it seemed a lot more enthusiasty and friendly than other shows. I think Billing has seen the last of me, but this thread is inspiring me to trek a little further north next year

My LPG 3.9 has been working very well off-road for the last 10 years. I can't think of any reason why a course might be unsuitable unless you have very low slung tanks, but TBH, a standard fuel tank of a RRC or Disco is vulnerable enough. As for vapouriser water ingress, I have a shield plate protecting the vent hole. It just stops it taking a gobful if water comes over the wing top. You could always run a breather extension to a high location, as many do with gearbox and axle breather pipes. Sounds like the flyer was written by someone that doesn't know much about LPG.

Coil sprung 90/110s started production in 1983. I'd be proud to have an '84 model.

I have a short bed Student 1800 (the later square head type). It's about 5' overall length and weighs in a tad under 800 Kg. It fits in a single garage without much trouble, but you will need a mate with a Hiab/ tractor and loader to get it in there With its 3HP motor it has a good amount of grunt. More about the Student here