De Ranged

I'm away from the shed but my answer to the same problem was an old pair of "C" clip plyers, cut the ends off so only about 15mm long, welded a couple of lumps on one side and one on the other and filed them so they fit with about a 2mm gap I've used them on 10mm bundy tube (trans cooler line), light gauge steel tube think it was about 1mm wall, up to 3" dia alloy tube with a 2mm wall lol this took alot of work! that I didn't need to do..... didn't think about using the sheet bead roller till after I'd done the job lol

Those uniballs are used by alot of the dessert boys with independent especially by the top end guys.... 4130 sheet arms sort of thing, sort of thing that costs a bomb to build and get heat treated, the sort of thing you don't want to be replacing weld on parts for! I think your getting hung up about adjustablity, The only reason I fit threaded ends on a lower links is to correct tracking, make the axle at right angles to the chassis (and to be honest to take some of the stress of measuring and prep when setting up) and to do this its only one link up at the chassis end, thread pitch is "fine" on most threaded ends so thats 1.5-1.75mm that allows me to adjust a wheel back or forward by about 1mm at the wheel for half a turn of the joint And the $20 extra for a joint with a threaded end is cheaper than me spending the extra time measuring and checking I'm true (and it looks flash to a client lol) Adjustabilty on the top link yes this is for Caster and you get this wrong your handling is carp (potentially dangerous) I like alot of room to play on this one so I like to do a L&R Panhard bar again the $20 extra is worth it for a bit of adjustment I prefer to only fit a single joint at the chassis end The other reason I do weld on joints in the bottom, it is stronger! Since this is a road going toy (yes?) I think you need a poly/rubber joint in each link to stop the road vibrations being transferred be this a JJ a rubber barrel bush (recomend the Patrol radius arm bushes, best flex without going stupid) or a radius arm style bush If you are going to go a Hiem/Rose joint then try Rough stuff I've fitted these to trucks before Teflon lined 4140 joints and a sharper price than I could get in NZ http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/RODENDS.html As for making up a holder for the L322 joints.... simple make up a threaded rod in the lathe (this gives me a known quality of steel 1040 or 4140 personally) then a bit of Hollow bar, drill and tap a hole in the side to take the threaded rod, screw the two together and weld the outside (pre-heat and mig for 1040, or pre-heat and stick weld with a Med-High tensile Low Hi rod... the pre heat isn't necessary for this dia, just make me feel happier lol) then mount to the lathe and machine to fit the joint..... I even have half this stuff cut sitting next to the lathe to do for the toy lol when I get time!

Landroverforever If this gets too dry and boring feel free to tell us to PO lol This was my point with the bump stops... I mean the weight of the truck is suspended on the springs/bumps, does the rollcenter dive as the wheel drops only to bounce back up as the suspension reaches bump and limit of drop or the other way goes up and drops as the axle reaches max articulation I have never seen evidence of this on the trials Now what I have seen (and engineered to control) is on side-lings chassis mount down is more stable and yes once you get the panhard near vertical it "jacks" the body out from the axle some of the trials trucks that compete over here have been engineered with the axle pivot mount made higher to level the panhard or slope it down back to the chassis to stop this.... on this note in these situations did you realize the panhard will lock up the suspension as you get close to the jacking point the weight of the body is mostly on the panhard the suspension stops working. So the old school guys in the trials here came up with the idea of a short panhard that only goes to the center of the diff allowing the axle to still articulate.... watching the different styles in action on the same obstacles it makes a noticeable difference That said there is a trend in the speed sections for standard panhards to be driven faster but this is anecdotal at best lol Now unfortunately non of my books cover beam axle suspension that well (all treat it as a poor evolutionary step towards Independent) so non of them discuss the effect of a rollcenter that isn't centered in relation to CoG The way I see it the distance these two are apart becomes a lever (might have the wrong term here, I don't see it magnifying the forces... but I do see it being a lever that could cause a "jacking" effect) you will get more body roll one way than the other and in an extreme case cause the CoG to with enough force sideways to lift and pivot over the Rollcenter "Jacking" it Jamie you missed the classic Jag rear swing axle, a common swop back in the days as it had a good diff there is still a lot of literature in our modification legislation on how to setup the axle to stop jacking Oh and the bonus of the Jony joint isn't the flex its the fact they survive abrasive mud, Mine look to be different they have a lock nut on one side of the joint and I think i get more flex, When I get back to the toy (at least a couple of yrs off lol) for the front suspension I was planing on running the Range Rover rear suspension booted ball joints they have a really good range of travel and were 1/4 the price of JJ

Sorry Jamie, you picked up on my bad.... I did actually mean the the tyre separation thing for mechanical strength part of my argument for more due to wear, I have a bit of an issue in that I think faster than I type lol sad part is I re-read it before I posted looking for grammar faults.... will put in more of an effort to not embarrass myself The way I see it, the panhard its self is irrelevant it is the median between the chassis pivot mount and the axle pivot mount so it will still be in the middle of the link catch is as the link swings it will move it slightly to the side as it swings the axle down and sideways, does that move the rollcenter to the side?(remember as it drops and the axle swings to the side the lower links will change there angle more to one side this will move the convergence to one side?).... this is something I've wanted clarification on myself On a side note with that sort of travel you would have your panhard setup for ride height (flat-ish) and effectively the only time its swings that low that it would pull the axle to side would be when jumping when there is none too little weight on the wheels so negligible effect..... the only time is the slow full articulation thing, but so long as the bumps are around the area of the pivot points for the panhard the axle will be in a similar position wheel track wise in relation to the body when articulated left or right.... if this is the case what happens to the rollcenter when articulated left or right (hope my explanation makes sense might need to draw it lol)

It doesn't matter what the style of joint when they wear they allow movement, when the separation isn't good enough this allows bad things to happen hows this for an example, a while back I had one of the local club boys rock up with his toy (bastardis'ed landy) takes me for a scoot down the road to show me the problem... nice straight section of road we came up behind a car, he put his hand on the top of the wheel and accelerated pulled to the far side of the road past the car and decelerated pulling in.... he didn't move the steering wheel at all through this! When he went to brake the steering wheel shuddered side to side as much as 45degree's and the nose of the truck bounced There was more wrong than worn suspension joints in this case lol Now something to be awear of is separation at the chassis is just as important, most of the time this isn't an issue because the top link is shorter (distance between mounts doesn't matter what plane its in).... as for the min distance the 1/4 tyre dia is a good idea (bigger tyres more leverage) personally I prefer a 1/3, this is because I've found maintenance wise 4wd'ers are a bit slow lol Jamie a one link and a three link both run a pan hard bar so both have the same scope for rollcenter height your links do more than push or pull... they rotate..... but just on the push and pull thing, consider your trying to drive one wheel up a bank and you have moved your radius arm style links closer together at the chassis end (for more steering clearance) lets assume 5mm of movement in each rubber bush now because you have a wheel in the bank its pushing back at the truck the other side is pulling forward so, on a standard truck chassis is about half the width of your wheel track that means your wheel will move back about 10mm, lets consider you move your chassis mounts inside the chassis by 1/4 of the chassis width you now have a separation that is a quarter of the WT that means your wheels can move forward or back 15mm This is with good bushes and not taking into effect the extra leverage you create on the rubber bush which will cause more movement Radius arms and One links can easily be made to provide adjustable caster as Daan said Don't forget the style of suspension (leaf, one link, 3 link etc) and there geometry is only part of a larger picture that is suspension and handling, spring rate, bumps, shocks, swaybars etc all can be used to sort geometry issues For example the landy I mentioned, changed his leaf spring bushes to hilux ones (to retain his flex) removed his torque rod and made a new longer one that matched the length of the leaf spring with a shackle mount (solved his caster changes under braking), added a panhard bar to his front leaf springs (to stop torque twist steering the truck) and stiffer shocks for the rear (to slow the back raising under brakes and adding to the caster change)..... all this because he wasn't willing to give up his super flexy leaf springs lol when you have worked out some of your packaging throw up some dimensions and pic's and we can offer some real suggestions If we want to debate what the best style of suspension is.... hands down best is 1/4 eleptical leaves on dual triangulated 4 link with hydro steer and dual action air ram assist on the springs lol Right I'm home for change... Yay so time for me to finish landscaping, then start the shed!

I've got 10mins so this will be quick (gota go to work....) More the better, especially with rubber bushes.... bush flex or when there isn't enough separation accelerated wear on joints and then the same issue of movement of the axle allowing changes to caster (loose direction sense when braking) or axle movement allowing the wheels to rub or worse steering the truck! oh and this could apply with your lower triangulation yes but I've only just gotten up so not thinking yet and can't work out the dynamics Don't stress this, if it needs to be longer to stop pinion rotation then do it.... rule of thumb longer all the links the better, Packaging will be the issue that dictates this I imagine All good things! Why.... this will only lead to more compromise, do it right and it will handle plenty good enough to run it onroad and still perform offroad We run them on trailer queen trucks here in NZ and they last well in the mud and handle the jandel (power) Extra bolt holes will allow you to adjust AS/AD up or down rule of thumb I've found was 30mm separation gave about 15% change... you only need them at one end, its about change is more effective if its changing the angle of the link An adjustable link (length) is a really good option as this lets you adjust caster

Thanks guys its a bit hard to see but there is a number cast into the non machined section No is 561887 CA

Im off work at the moment (carpell tunnel surgery) so I'm sorting a disk conversion for my mates series front axle... I've got a viable combo of caliper and disk, the disk will require a bit of machining tho (on a slightly comical note both are from sports cars) Anyway I've struck an interesting problem with the axle (from a SII ute) The hubs are different left to right This is the right one (which I'd like to find another of) Made by Leys (there name is cast into the back of it), its 15mm thick with the studs rececessed in on the back (inside) face.... ideal for me to work with as its a nice flat mounting face for the disk spacer/adapter to bolt to This is the Left hand side Again made by Leys as you can see but the backside (inside) face is patterned and the studs are proud and to top it off the flange is thinner so I don't want to machine a face on this if I can avoid it Can anyone give me any information on the first one the right hand side one, I'm guessing they are from different series or maybe a suffix change Oh and I'll post up the details on the conversion for those interested when I'm finished,

Cool, I'm home for 3 weeks... unfortunately the result of Carpel Tunnel surgery on my good hand... but i'm hoping to get his front axle done (disk brakes and HD steering rods on a Slll axle and mount his gearbox and motor

Does it look like this ? if it is this style then its a double cardan "U" joint....

I have never suffered from this, I'm the classic limited feeling male lol just thought this may help reinforce the good in your life Reading your story and a letter from an old friend where she stated what she was going through with her struggles... gave me enough of an idea of what a mate of mine who feel into the "pit" was going through several yrs after loosing an arm and when he came to me I was able to help him and support him.... instead of offering him a beer and telling him to get over it Oh and just for the books, it took a few visits from him before I realized there was a problem that couldn't be fixed with a beer and a laugh.... sometimes we are... yea lol Think I need a beer Thank you

Hey Iain don't you guys over the ditch have ACC some form of government funded compo and care... so why the legal eagles ? or are you talking insurance, I know as a kiwi in Aus we HAVE to have insurance there is no cover for us Oh and trust me mate if you had a public health nurse calling she wouldn't be a cute lingerie clad lass assuming it would be a lass lol last one I had call in for me would have made any ruby coach proud to have her in the front row! I kept all suggestions of sponge baths and special care to myself...

I'm going to say something different to the rest and is purely based off the tone of your post and isn't ment offensively Only do this if you are patching the top surface of your X member... I say this because arc welding on light gauge stuff is difficult 2mm steel is fair enough to learn on when its flat, hunt around you can get a 1.6mm rod if you can only find 2.4mm rods then you will have to overlap your patch or you will blow holes instead of welding, the overlap will give you some more material to soak up some of the excess heat 2-3mm of overlap should be spot on the weld should burn this up leaving you with no moisture trap overlap area, to help burn this overlap angle your rod about 45-30degrees off vertical so your angled into the thick over lapping area Trying to learn how to do a vertical or overhead weld, this will more than likely end up with you paying someone finish the job (I have over 20yrs welding and I don't do overhead arc unless I have no choice) Now if you can get access to a mig your filler wire is alot smaller so there is less heat giving you plenty of time to sort your welds with a wee bit of practice you'll even manage overhead just remember to wear welding gloves you get too much heat in the weld and you will have molten metal falling lol A wee trick to find out how far your rust goes, hit the surrounding area with the ball end of a small ball peen hammer or a arc welding chipping hammer, don't be shy about it, if it dints or punches through you have more rust than you thought lol and expect it to be alot more than what you see.... alot Once replaced 1/4 of the floor in a car because of a finger sized hole Good luck

very sobering story I regularly work and drive long hrs, mon was 24hrs, the longest I've done in one hit was 4 12hr shifts one after the other and I drove home afterwards.... I drive/operate for a living and I'm overly consous of any mistakes I make, little things like hitting a pothole I ment to miss, drifting too close to the white lines, brake late in a corner etc.... I feel fatigue and notice any thing off I pull over and power nap Last weekend on the way home at 4am I passed a car... afterwoods I noticed something odd in my rear view.... the guy I had passed had drifted across the passing lane into the oncoming lane and stayed there for about half a km.... I started flashing my lights at oncoming traffic and called the cops, thankfully there was only a couple of oncoming cars An hr later I pulled over for a power nap because I forgot to put the engine brakes on at the start of a big down hill... I was less than half an hr from home My thoughts will be of you, lol its some thing I'll remember at 2am when I'm driving Wish I was closer so I could offer some help I know what back injurys are about, good luck mate

The job its self doesn't concern me, its more to do with the fact I'll end up working on his truck instead of mine lol

from my measurements we will have to shorten both ends of the tub... my goal is to find a sweet spot where the floor supports line up with the chassis mounts and the wheel arch is still serviceable lol.... something about having cake and eating it but at the moment this is all moot as the only 109 tub we have access to is my 4 door..... will know more when he has found one and I can get my hands on it On a side note I'm working on him to do a build thread for it as he is doing some cool stuff

Thought it was a fake, just the shape of the "gun" looked like a toy.... turns out I was wrong http://www.cleanlaser.de/wEnglish/produkte/high-power-cl-1000.php Also removes paint, oil and wax.... don't know about the Nuclear contaminates lol

I'm going to put a vote in for limestone.... but I'm bias'd, dad had a SIIa 109" that was that colour and I have it now lol

I'm with cynical a thick wooden top for general work.... but as annoying as the leg under the vice is, you need it there I would suggest clearing the corner of the bench as this is real handy for those things that don't balance when you put them in the middle section and also for hitting things, eg forming a corner on something, laying akward things flat so you can hit part of them.... I'd also suggest using the 10mm plate here and do a reinforcing plate under the corner as well... I'd also suggest putting a leg here to support things when you hit em lol but step it back in say 6" so you can hang things around the edge Thats about all I'd suggest

All good the 109" tub shortening was one of the ideas I suggested..... thanks for the link to the vid I'd forgotten about that one

Gidday guys I'm after some build threads for 100" series for a mate.... he's having another push on his S2a and has given me the go ahead to extend his chassis (will do it in a couple of weeks time) I'm not concerned about the chassis work, this makes my life easier as the new Isuzu diesel and salisbury rear are both pushing at each other making the drive shaft stupidly short in an 88" chassis What I would like is pictures and build threads showing how they delt with the tub sides..... as my description of "its simple just fold this bit in the box n pan, hand bend this bit over the edge of the table blaa blaa blaa.... seems to glaze his eyes a bit lol don't think he sees this as simply as me Oh did search but it doesn't like the 100" bit not enough characters and I don't think many would write there threads up as "one hundred inch" lol Cheers

Interesting the 12 quotes I got for my shed.... steel on average was about 30% (in one case 300%, they weren't interested in explaining why lol) more expensive than a corresponding wooden pole shed.... the end result for me was a wooden pole shed with two steel spans so I can have "clear span" inside the clear spans cost me another 12% Yay I have land.... now I need money lol

"Tis often easier to ask for forgiveness than permission......" lol I'm just glad for my situation.... we have different levels of permission, this allows us the ability to even apply for things that are not allowed or past the levels for the regional plan this is why I asked.... catch is if I had been required to apply for one of these it could cost more than the shed I planned to build with an odds on chance they would say no.... got to love bureaucracy, how did we ever exist without it..

Thank you guys yet again you were spot on we have found the part

Right for those that have been following my Camper build this odd ball parts mix-up will make sense I'm running a Disco 1 front axle with a landrover 4.7 diff and what a mate has refered to as Metric swivels from a RRC with 10 spline axles Catch is my parts man (LR Spares) hasn't heard of the metric term in relation to the swivel housings and getting parts is proving to be a bit of a problem the latest one we can't find an answer for In the swivel housing the spindle has a brass bush that the nose of the CV sits into.... in the PDF I've attached it is #20 but this shows a bearing and bush behind in mine its a single large bush can anyone give me a model number I can work too or do I have it right and the bush has been replaced ? If it helps my swivel housings have kingpin bearings top and bottom not the bush up top Section_16022016_1224.pdf