steve200TDi

Hi, After ordering an output seal kit, I finally got around to fitting it the weekend before last. I decided to take the box off as it is only 4 extra bolts and a bolt holding the steering linkage on. I used a hydraulic puller to get the drop arm off, a load bang was heard as it finally gave in and popped off the shaft. The old seal did show signs of splits and perishing. I removed all of the seals and gave it a good clean. The shaft did look a bit scored but you can't get you finger in there to feel for grooves etc. I fitted all back in and filled it up. All was well, until last weekend when I checked for leaks....The leak was back. A mate at work recommended a 'speedy sleeve' which is a very thin metal sleeve that can be pressed over the output shaft to form a new smooth surface. I had a brief search, but no mention of using them on steering boxes. It could be another option before buying a new steering box. So has anyone any experience with a 'speedy sleeve'? If not, does anyone know the diameter of the output shaft where the seals fit? Thanks Steve

Hi, I'm also in need of a new fuel tank. I've seen some tanks that have been made from zintec, which is mild steel with a thin coating of zinc. MPS 4x4 Store Anybody have any experience with this material/tank. Steve

There's a thread about this on the military forum. If I were having a go, and it seems a really good idea, I would try and use some ducting or even try and buy the two pipes from Land Rover. Either way it got to be better than paying £115 for a kit! It seems a lot of money! Steve

Hi, The 'captive nuts' as you call them are rivnuts which is a threaded insert rivited in place. And now I gather its just turning. An idea that I used to remove one of the bolts on my front mudflaps was to cut the bolt head off and tap the rest of the bolt into the outrigger (or in your case the rear cross member) and fish it out with a magnet. As its very restrictive in the rear crossmember as the openings at each end are covered partially by the rear tub you probably cannot get a pair of mole grips or pliers on the nut. Hope this helps. Steve

Nice vehicle, what are you plans for it, expedition/overland vehicle? Steve

I have heated wing mirrors fitted by one of the previous owners. Mine work when I turn the heated rear window switch on. Maybe yours does the same? Steve

Hi, It looks like I'll be needing a new fuel tank soon as it is leaking. I don't know how old it is - it could be the original! What I'm interested in is preserving/lengthening the life of the new one. I've heard you can get stainless steel/anodised fuel tanks. I had a thought of painting it with something durable and obviously pay particular attension to the fuel tank area when cleaning after off raoding not to let any mud sit up between the tank and seatbox. If anyone has had experiance with any of the above or have anyother suggestions I would like to hear them. Thanks for your help. Steve

Are the two extra pipes for the side windows T'ed off from the heat pipe for the pasenger side of the front windscreen? Thanks Steve

Hi, Is the entrance to Hogmore still here in Dave's link. Steve

Hi, I had a steering wobble at 80km/h which is 50mph. It also happened when you lift off down to 45mph and then try to accelerate back up to 50mph. I thought it may have been due to wheel balancing as I had balancing beads in my new set of off road tyres and was a bit scheptical of them working! We had some spare standard land rover steering dampers at work and so I thought I might as well fit a new as I don't know how many miles the old one has done (probably all 139,000 of them!) and I was amazed by the outcome. Steering wobble around 50mph completely gone! A new steering damper worked for me on my 200TDi 90 and for about £15 it maybe worth a try. And also balancing beads seem to work as well! Hope this helps. Steve

Hi, As most jubilee clips have say a 6mm or 7mm outer edge I use a socket or one of these: Jubilee clip driver Whenever I can I use this on jubilee clips as it wont slip off. Hope this helps. P.S. I have one of the 8 piece profesional screwdriver sets from Halfords, they haven't broken yet all the times I've used them, the handles are grippy as well. Steve

Hi, I recently checked my towbar electrics using a multimeter on the volt setting and ground each pin to check it was working. I found diagrams of the two sockets on google. Trailer Sockets I'm no expert on the subject of electronics but from the diagram it does show a continuouse 12 supply on the 'S' type which you need for a caravan. Hope this helps. Steve

So you would have long bolts going through the crossmember into the winch. I surpose the lower of the two bolts can take the fairlead as well? Steve

Hi, I'm guessing the people who have mounted the winch like an 8274 have cut the centre section of the rear crossmember out and added a winch tray so that the winch is bolted up against a single piece of plate like the 8274. If you were keeping the crossmember* standard and having a tubed hole for the winch line to run through onto the fairlead how would you go about mounting the winch? As the Superwinch EP9 is designed so that the nuts are semi captive and the bolts go through the winch tray/plate into the winch. *When I say standard I'm making my own close to the original design but with no holes and are just getting ideas of the best way to mount the winch/design my crossmember. So if anyones got any pictures that will be great. Thanks Steve

Unimogs....Whats this site like?!! Another site I haven't been too, I believe it's like Slab Common, can anyone elaborate? I'll be there. Steve

It does seem a little confusing especially with 110's. It's strange, I thought Western posted up just before you about the torque setting? Steve

Yes Please! Steve

Excellant, not bad for my first attempt! Brick Kiln seems an excellant site for a punch challenge as the site is quite small, so a little easier than say Slab Common! Steve

Hi all, I had a great day taking part (competing!) in the punch challenge. I think it was a great success, can't wait for the next! I'll get some pic up here later and also send all my pics to photos (at) shirelrc.com I thought my power steering was a bit heavy on the way home. Later found my pas belt sitting in my diff guard tray at the front! See you all at Hogmore! Steve

Hi David, I changed my rear diff oil seal. What I did was to mark where the nut was and count the turns it took to take it off. Change the oil seal and then tighten it back up to the mark I made previously. Touch wood it hasn't leaked to this day. It only needs to be nipped up as it is on a spline and so it can't rotate. I have found this torque value in the defender workshop manual, I think it describes it correctly Differential drive flange to drive shaft ......................................................... 47Nm Hope this helps. Steve

Hi David and Jaroslav, From what you saying you both seem to have a 110 - am I right. If so then you probably have a sailsbury axle which has a crush tube. Tighten the flange back up on this axle is a lot more difficult that a 90 rear axle as it just has washer. Hopefully someone will be along to explain more about completing the job on a 110. Hope this helps Steve Edit: Sorry david just re-read, front diff!

Hi, Is this years Dakar rally on the TV or internet as I want to watch some before it finishes! Steve

All back together now with some nice new bolts. No wonder the bolt sheared when I tried to remove it. I had to take the whole bracket off and press what was left of the bolt out using a hydraulic puller. The bolt was well and truely rusted in there. Steve

Thank you both for the quick reply. If it is normal (although a little strange as you say!), I guess I'll put it all back together again. Thanks Steve

Whilst removing my steering guard to replace my steering damper I managed to sheer one of the bolts. The bolt in question being one of two that attach the bracket that holds the panhard rod to the chassis and also is attached to the lower support bracket of the steering box. Anyway to cut a long story short when I took the 19mm nut off the lower support bracket to remove the said panhard rod support bracket I found the bolt going through a large hole of the panhard rod support bracket, this too me doesn't look quite right and wondered if there was meant to be some sort of bush in there. I know that both parts do not move with susspension etc. but it seams such a large hole for a small bolt. This is the large hole (below) I'm referring about, as there was no bush in it. If anyone can help that'll be great, a part no. for the bush needed even better. Thanks for your help. Steve