steve200TDi

Have a look at this! Steve

Looks like a good site, not sandy! I think I'll be coming along next year when its on again (hopefully!). Steve

Sounds like an excellant idea, look like I'll be coming to the Christmas one then! Thank you for the info. Steve

Sounds good and its near! As I will have to become a member for a year, do you plan to hold winch challenges next year so I can make good use of my membership! Thanks Steve

I thought they were using RV4!

The nut is done up very tight to something like 180Nm so it could be slightly loose. Steve

Hi, What did the advisory say? If the handbrake isn't gripping enough the adjuster on the back of the handbrake drum may need screwing in due to pad wear. If the hand brake is gripping, but the lever is at the 12 O'clock position and you have tried the adjuster screw on the back of the handbrake then you may need to adjust the handbrake sleeve as the cable has stretched slightly. If it's a '93 then I guess you will have a rod coming out the back of the handbrake into a small bracket/frame with the pivot arm in to pull the pads out/put the handbrake on. You should see two nuts holding the outer sleeve of the handbrake cable onto the frame with excess thread either side. This is what you need to adjust to bring the lever down to the 2 O'clock position. Steve

Have a look here. Steve

Ooow, I haven't been to Broxhead, I might come long. What's it like? Sandy? Steve

I think that the Supacat SPV400 was the other contender for the MOD to choose from and that the Ocelot won the contract. The Ocelot looks pretty cool! More rugid! Steve

I've fitted my X-Nuts! Greased up the socket, bolt and blue collar, took out one of the winch bumper bolts and put this in and tightened it up. A little difficult to get the socket out, but I think it was more to do with the suction of the grease, so used a pair of mole grips to gently wiggle it out. After it came out it was quite easy to put back in to remove it again. Also fitted one to the winch on the underside of the bumper. Who else has fitted there's?! Steve

Hi, As you say you may need some specialist attachments for the transfer box, but a hydraulic puller is definitely the way to go as it exerts a lot more force, but do gearbox parts need a lot of force to dismantle? A hydralic puller is also handy for removing the steering drop arm and seized bolts in chassis' etc. Steve

I've put my cut out in the positive red cable and also mounted mine on the front of the passenger seat box. Steve

Hi, I think I remember having th same trouble as some are M16 and some are M14. Steve

Hi, This is probably part of your ccv (crank case vent) system. It evacuates crank case pressure into the inlet system. Due to the oily nature of the gas it runs through a cyclone or swirl pot to seperate the oil from the air and so the air goes to the inlet system and the oil returns to the sump. It should look conical in shape with the pointy end at the bottom. Gases from the crank case (cam cover) would enter at the side at the top to force the gases to swirl inside and the air escapes out of the top and the oil runs down the side and out of the bottom. I've tried to find a picture, but couldn't. Steve

Hi, On some, if not all, winches the brake only works one way and so in this setup the brake will not work. Also if its not right, better get the garage to fit it corectly. Steve

Hi, I am also thinking about this, beings I've already bought new HD drag links. I was thinking about maching a short adapter/spacer to thread into the end of the drag link to make it the same length as a Discovery and either weld or thread lock it in so it wont come loose. Steve

I don't know how far into the build process you are, but if it is a bare chassis then you could use the force of gravity to help you and stand the chassis up virtically. Then with some string or cord tied to something heavy like a m16 bolt it will find its own way to the bottom/rear of the chassis. Only a suggestion though! Steve

Hi, Are you looking into the airline kit to pump up your tyres as well to see if it is cheaper than ARB? Steve

I guess that makes two of us, although I did try to compete at the last round!! See you on Friday! Steve

You call that a tide line! This is a tide line! Steve

Hi, I was looking at terrafirma shocks a few days ago and remember seeing some dimensions Here, but it only states opened and closed. Hope this helps. If not there must be other websites that has it. Steve

Hi, Out of the above I would choose the rear crossmember and incorporate, recovery points, winch etc as there are not many products on the market, most rear winch bumper are for competition use and incorporate mountings for 8274's. Maybe design it around an everyday commuter vehicle. The others items are already on the market and I guess you would need to improve them in some way to justify your idea. Steve

Hi, I fitted an LED brake light to mine and routed the cable in the window sealant when I changed the glass. I purchased a cheap £5 light from ebay and it works fine. I was a bit apprehensive, but thought I would give it go and its really good. It sticks to the window with some sticky pads. Steve

Hydro steering or a better steering damper are two completely different things. A steering damper makes the steering movement from the steering wheel smoother and hydro steer gives more turning force to the wheels, as said used for when you have larger tyres. I don't think hydro steering is road worthy though. Steve