LandyManLuke

Groovy - no problem then

if the ball has punched through, you should get a solid pedal. if the pedal continues to go up and down no effort, the rod is probably missing, as Phil says, and you're merrily pumping fluid into the bell housing. Either way, you've got to take it apart again.

There's a huge difference between what the law and your insurers say. Check with your insurer. that's the third time i've said it. i wouldn't be surprised if it isn't covered, in which case, it'll invalidate your policy quicker than you can say 'check with your insurer' Oooo look, four times.. Also, you're 'carrying a passenger not in a seat' (or similar), at the moment, i wouldn't be surprised if your insurance doesn't cover that either.

I doubt yours is 65A if it's got a plug, my 65A has studs. anything's possible though. You'll need to upgrade the wiring from the alternator to the starter motor. crimping new terminals on is not difficult, especially as it'll be a new bit of wire from the alternator to the starter. Any alternator which physically fits the mounting holes will do, you can change the 'handed-ness' of an alternator by unbolting the casing and rotating it, possibly drilling out the threaded hole to replace with a bolt, too. I believe 100A is about the limit of a single-vee though.

I'm not 100% on the law, but the loop hole comes down to the age of the vehicle, and the fact the seats are sideways facing, i think. As i said before, check with your insurer.

£70?! ouch!

That's just the wheel box. folding bench seats or individual seats are available.

found it, here The index of files is here

its on the estonian (?) link in the archives, I have it. If it's disappeared, i'd happily stick it on CD and bung it in the post?

Actual benches, or just the wheel boxes? If you have benches, seatbelts are not a legal requirement, but they will probably be required by your insurer.

Steve (Weldequip) on Mig-Welding. His business is called Pendle Welding Supplies or similar, i have his phone number somewhere. He's a helpful bloke and happy doing mail-order etc.

Just sounds like you're abusing it Will

http://www.devon4x4.co.uk/ Says it's currently being uploaded. Though that doesn't mean a great deal - as it only takes a few minutes to actually upload a new website, they must be tinkering with it.

Correct. You probably just need to adjust the switch, if it's new. you should be able to screw it in a few turns to get it to close properly, not too far as it'll stop you selective reverse properly. The ultimate test would be to remove it and push it in yourself. Luke

I've used a Sealey one for years, for woodwork and metalwork. Hopefully I'll have one of my own soon (Birthday Monday, Pillar drill is on the list!), which'll be used for the above as well as tube, not much good as feedback for you right now though.

If the staff at the Machine Mart you visit are doing their job properly, they'll turn you away if you haven't got the flyer with your name on it, or are a guest of someone who has.

Why not just buy a new filter and not be so heavy handed with it next time, it's not like they're expensive?

Another vote for mig-welding.co.uk, It's a good forum. plenty of good advice available.

yup a new battery should be charged, and capable of holding its charge for quite a while. i can't see postage/delivery making any difference. A multimeter will give you an idea of whats going on, granted it's not a drop meter, but it's good enough. anything less than ~10v is not good news for a 12v battery, especially at rest.

The most important thing here, is whether the stereo has ISO connectors, and what wiring you already have in the 90. If you've got a stereo with ISO connectors, and half decent wiring in the landrover, connecting the two is pretty simple. If you're putting the stereo in the standard position most of the wiring should be there, at least for a 2 speaker setup. If you're going for a four speaker setup and/or putting the stereo in something like a cubby box, you'll have a bit more to do. The neatest solution will probably be to buy an 'iso connector to bare ends' - basically the other half of the connector on the back of the stereo, with 6" of wires coming out of it, which you can join up to the landrovers wiring - then you'll be able to swap and change for any stereo in the future, and it'll work with the same wiring. If your stereo(s) look like this, you're in luck. the ISO connector is the bigger one on the left.

gauges and senders are matched pairs - you need the correct one to go with the other. Once you put any load on the engine it will struggle with no lift pump, the injection pump isn't designed to be any good at sucking.

its the bottom, the flat part of the pump lever, that runs on the cam.

Amen to that. Why not take the earth back to the battery and have brighter headlights forever more.

Scanned paper Vs clean PDF - no contest really. Well done David for providing a useful resource.

No, much clearer