LandyManLuke

If you haven't got access to a press, can you cut through where the bend is, straighten it, and weld it up again?

a new sheet of A4 paper normally does the trick.

Make : Portamig Model : 211 How Long have you had it / How old is it : from new/5 months Typical Current Price : £595 Maximum Welding Current (AMPS) :215 Output at 60% Duty Cycle : 120 Welding Wire range in mm : 0.6 - 1mm (0.6 / 0.8 roller supplied) Small Large or BOTH re Wire Spools : both Euro Torch (Yes / No ) : included in price, 3m or 4m Argosheild Bottle - max Size that will fit : full, reg supplied Weight : 55kg on spec sheet, awkward lift for 1 person What is the most typical things you weld with it - thicknesses etc : 1mm RRC door frame/chassis/body frame. in future roll cage and winch mounts. Other standard Features : 12 power settings (2 sets of 6) Good Points : wire feed motor the size of a coke can. built to last. very solid. lowest setting is only 20A, most welders this size its normally 30A Bad Points : none really On a scale of 1 to 10 1 being very unhappy with it, and 10 being "Its perfect for me" rate it : 10. Does what it says on the tin. no bells. no whistles. solid performance all day every day. great supplier with good support/spares availabilty. 10 as i will not need to buy another MIG. It took me over a year of research to decide on this welder. MigTigArc sell these welders under their own 'MTA' brand. they are identical to the Portamig welders, they're all built in York, UK. feel free to make images clicky if they get in the way etc.

just swill it out with petrol. check for any paint or rust flakes.

Been searching for it, can't find it. Using petal to pull a dent out of the back of a car, very controlled. Fridge?

Yup, pneumatics wouldn't do proportional very well at all would they. Jez mentioned the body shop vid, if that was solenoid control then solenoid control is fine enough! B)

This has been mentioned on the other LR forum i use, I haven't seen the ad myself but it appears quite a few have found it inappropriate.

FWIW, i'm in the same boat. A pair solenoids for two winches is a lot of money, one's bad enough! How far have you looked into pneumatic solenoids? are there valve blocks available off-the-shelf to take them? Sorry to answer your post with more questions, at least you know you're not alone!

If you fancy bringing it down to Kirton (just south of Scunny) this weekend, I'll be there all weekend, and you can have fun driving round Kirton and raise some money for a good cause too!

That'd be the catch! it's supposed to be there! the pin is shaped like a cone, to push the catch back, then there's a lip that it springs back over, holding the bonnet closed. I'd reckon your pin isn't that cone shaped anymore and isn't pushing the catch back.

You could check for continuity, (and find there is none if the motor really is dead) between F1 & F2, and A and ground. Make sure the terminal posts really are clean, I looked at a motor once where the terminals looked clean, but were in fact covered in oxidisation (not rust) and had v.poor contact.

Grey socket as in aux socket at the towbar, as apposed to the black one, for driving lights.

yuh, I've got those basics too, but what about when a wheel lifts, there's no torque as there's no resistance. (neglecting drivetrain resistance) what about marginal traction? speed, and torque, are a function of resistance. I'm using an electric motor as a prime mover, so speed is a function of voltage and load torque, at that end of the drive train.

Has anyone seen (or can derive ) a model of a differential? I'm struggling to find anything, and torque and speed biasing relationships are starting to frazzle my brain.

If the meter is just reading a plain 1, rather than 0.01, 0.1, 1.0 etc, its most likely out of range, and not giving an actual reading at all, as has been said previously.

I'd check the wheel bearings, do an oil change, and check all fluids. A lot of my 90's mileage is 200 mile runs, i know i know, not 1.2k, but I still do a fluid check before setting off, I quite like getting settled and just cruising for 3 or 4 hours, I've got plenty of music to choose from too, that helps. 45L of fuel slows things down a bit though.

I'd say switch too, wiggling it may coax a little more life out of it. alternatively, strip it down and clean/fix it, or replace it.

You can just see it in this pic, its the small stud in the same plastic shroud as the main output stud.

Control, I guess.

before you go taking things apart, get someone to stand on the bumper and push the bonnet down, whilst you try pulling the lever again.

I'm guessing you'll be paving the way when it comes to stand-alone custom ECU work. The engine would be worthless if you couldn't get it to run....

Looks good, plenty of triangles, minimal nodes, minimal mid-spar nodes. But then what do i know? I'm comfy in my armchair, i've not built my cage yet.

First things first. change the sender. They do fail with age.

fitted external regulator instead of, or as well as? if you've got charging problems, and the alternator is draining the battery with everything switched off, it's likely a diode has failed in the rectifier.