errol209

Is this closer to the loom you have? This is the 90 / 110 diagram out of the owner's book. I can recognise some of the connectors in the forground and they seem to match. 90wiring.pdf Sorry its sideways, no pdf editing software! Hope this helps.

Did you replace the pistons and seals on the front? They don't move much normally and corrode like nothing else (generally in the on position). Did you remove the shoes and put them back? If so, did they go back the right way round (leading / trailing) with all the springs on?

Something to put all those rivets in

Oooh, don't keep us in suspenders , what's it sorted? Bodgers (and Badgers, and Plasticbadgers come that) with enguiring minds want to know !

OK, don't panic or start thrashing the car with a tree What we know: You are getting a feed to the starter (its making a noise). The clickety clack pattern suggests that either the voltage isn't very high or the voltage drops off under load, because as soon as the solenoid closes (clickety) the voltage it sees drops, so it opens again (clack). This could be (from the battery onwards) A flat battery or 3 (seems unlikely, but worth trying to charge one independant of the car, just to eliminate this) A bad connection to or a badly-broken-smegging-thick-red-wire from the battery to the solenoid, both of which could cause a high resistance under heavy load (visual inspection required) Bad solenoid / starter (very unlikely as its new, but just possible. can be tested using a good battery, jump leads and gloves) A bad connection or broken solenoid feed wire from the ignition switch A bad connection or broken earth connection (including a bad bit of chassis), but you've checked these. Did you check the battery to chassis / battery to transmission / engine to chassis ones? Remember that a multimeter uses a few milliamps, whereas the solenoid coil draws about 10A and the starter up to 300A. (you only need a resistance of 0.04 of an ohm to drop 12v at 300A) Keep us posted

Does your diff lock light work anyway? If so, then this may just be an alternative connection, the other one will probably be just in front of the driver in the engine compartment.

Wahey, no rain, so pictures of 200TDi radiator and intercooler on a 2.5TD engine: Shows top pipe and newer (blue) pressure lines for injector pump, boost gauge and wastegate. Also note surgically modded fan cowl and 200Tdi cyclonic oil trap (drains to extra branch off the turbo drain - it was easiest) Close up of top and bottom pipes, engine end. The connection of the bottom one to the manifold is not my proudest moment and is on the list of things to tidy up. The pickup for the injector pump, boost gauge and wastegate is just behind the air inlet hose, so it reads the pressure after the intercooler, which means you don't have to twiddle the wastegate (thanks Western - <sings>I can see clearly now ...</sings>) Bottom pipe, intercooler end. It has to go through the legs of the air filter to avoid the cowl. That said, the cowl is coming off to make way for a nice pair of electric fans soon, but it's out of the way. Hope that inspires.

NRC7981

I love a puzzle! I'm not convinced about the earth thing - I don't see a way of reproducing the fault by disconnecting any of the earths. My vote would be for an incorrectly replaced bit of wiring, but the diagram doesn't give enough info about physical connections. Anyway, hope you sort it

Question one - If we had some LR4x4.com stickers made up (profits to forum funds, of course), would anyone be interested? Question two - (and this is the fun part) what would your suggestions be for a tag line under the logo? On behalf of the moderator can I request that suggestions at least attempt to keep the forum guidelines in view witout the aid of a telescope? p.s. If they already exist, can I have one, and I put this post in this forum 'cos there isn't an "other" forum

No problem with that at all.

Yes, but if you want to make sure your accessory doesn't take the ignition out, use the green-only wires (assuming yours as a late 80s / early 90s model using British wiring colours) as this is fused seperately.

Connecting to the alternator will only tell you what the alternator is doing. A bit more information can be had by connecting it the ignition live (white on my 90) which also means the voltmeter doesn't sit there draining the battery with the ignition off. The wiring for a "battery condition meter" (voltmeter with a fancy name) is already fitted behind the often blanked-off right-hand hole in a 90 / 110 / 130 / early defender instrument panel (where the clock is in the original post).

After a heated conversation with a MOT inspector at a certain chain of car accessory shop (that also does parts, servicing and MOTs) who was about to follow the MOT H/B to the letter, he found a small hill ...

Under the bonnet, where the f****n battery aught to be . Allows you to drive up to standed fellow motorists rather than having park accross them. Plus, I park against NS to hedge, and my jump leads aren't long enough when I've overdone using the insp. light and listening to the cricket!

I have oil pressure, turbo boost, ammeter and a voltmeter which switches between starter and auxilliary batteries.

No problem, though it might be a while before it stops raining long enough! Western, spot on then (well, 0.03 of a bar over - you and your baroque units!) Thanks. For the benefit of posterior posterity 48cmHg is 480 millibars, or 0.4737 bar, or 6.96 psi or 48 kPa or 360 torrs (never heard of that one ...)

Wasn't there a TV programme where some foodie did salmon in tinfoil on his manifold? Wasn't a Landy tho.

Thanks Western, I did it after reading threads on dead 2.5TD engines which mentioned heat stress, as a 10% improvement on terrible isn't really a good reason . It needed a little jiggling of the upper brackets to fit and some bespoke turbo pipes (welded up form a clothes line post - £6 from a builder's merchant). Strangely there is a standard top hose to connect it up, which I wasn't expecting. It has helped the mid-range a little and the economy is up by a little over 1 mpg (don't laugh, thats about 5%!). While I'm here, I moved the wastegate pickup point to be after the IC, do you know what the correct maximum boost pressure for a 2.5TD is / should be? 'cos the post IC air is denser, I think I need to tweak the wastegate, or has my physics failed me? My gauge reads .5 bar flat out. Ta

Does any one else run a 2.5 TD (19J) on a 200TDi radiator and intercooler? Mine gets to the end of the white bit after prolonged high speed ( ) running. Foolishly I didn't flush the eblag radiator prior to fitting, so that's one job, but I wondered what (if any) experience anyone else had? Yes, I know I should have just added an intercooler in front of the old TD radiator, but I don't have the money and Santa could only run to re-trim kit this year ("Dear Santa, can I have a PRC0001 (oil leak, 90 / 110), LR special tool 001 (4lb, hickory handle) ..")

Hi all, Whilst relaxing in the bath, playing with my rubber duck , I realised that the diagram above has a v. serious flaw - you can leave the screen switched on without the iginition = bat flattery. Edit: and BPman spotted this before I did - respect! So, two good alternatives: Picking off the VSR means that you can switch the front heated screen on and off without the rear, picking of the HRW line means than the HRW switch can control everything, but you can isolate the front if you want. The latter means that you could remove the seperate switch and just switch everything from the existing HRW switch. (the HRW already uses the VSR, so if the battery voltage falls, the HRW switches off). Apologies for the change of mind - the first diagram was a rush (trying to beat Western to the answer )

As I have previously been corrected about on this forum <cough> the sidelights are (read "should be") on 2.5A fuses, one for each side. There is no way on this good earth that a fuse this small would stand enough current to cook the wire. So, I'd also check that some previous owner hasn't reacted to a historic intermittent short by putting bigger fuses in! While you're checking the sidelights, also do the trailer wiring and any bullet connectors you can get to. The sidelight circuits are on red/black (left) and red/orange wires (right).

Yep, the parts book shows "as required". New shims are surprisingly un-cheap

Well, it works and its only £4.50* a gallon. * Estimate based on average NW UK price at time of writing. Remember that the value of your tank may go up as well as down.

Pro job! Makes my "radio wired on 2.5mm2 domestic twin and earth" find look amateur!