errol209

Self-amalgamating rubber tape

And a not-so-removable-way is to fit a suitable eyelet to each cable end, bolt them together and slather the joint in self-almagamating rubber tape. Up to a point this also works for more than two cables, but it isn't pretty: Bowie69's suggestion is much better.

On that vintage and original wiring, black is ground / chassis / 0V / negative. This shouldn't affect the horn, as that needs a live feed (probably brown, battery feed) and the horn end is earthed. I knew I should have brought my wiring diagram to work ...

Simpler than that. Everybody in for 50p please, or equivalent in local beer vouchers (If I'm member 8,000 ...)

My contribution to the developing "LR4x4 guide to winch selection" is to plead that anyone who fits an engine or PTO driven capstan or drum winch (e.g. one that continues to revolve without user intervention, like pressing a switch or holding a lever over) fits a simple emergency stop / engine cutout (by interupting the ignition or fuel solenoid). It is extremely easy to get the "tail" of the capstan winch rope driven over during a self recovery, jammed under the other turns or wrapped round a leg. A big red panic button is your friend in times of need, and the driver generally can't see a drum winch from the cab. Otherwise, my two penneth' is to comment that capstan wiches are great for pulling other things all day where huge loads and speed aren't an issue, but they do take a little more user skill than a drum winch.

IIRC the lower end of the shock fits (with a pair of bushes) onto a pin on the retaining plate, and is held on with a washer and a split pin. If Neanderthal spring installer removed and replaced the lower end assembly minus a bit, then it would potentially give up to 10mm of free movement before the shocker did anything, allowing the axle to "skip". I failed to re-attach both rear shocks after change the springs. Skippy / Tigger / Zebedee - that was me!

The brakes problem sounds like either a part oily drum (causing the shoes to catch and skid), but more likely a shock absorber issue? I have no experience of parabolics, but I did once fail to refit the shocks on a 109 - waheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeey Wonders to self abd also to world at large - could you refit the shoes wrong and get this effect?

925mm, all models.

Or 3.917 cubits in even older (Series) measurements ...

Will this do? Errol

Which switched 12V line, from where?

Manuel says 1790mm.

- The flasher relay senses the presence of the trailer by measuring the current drawn as it flashes. It could be that the three bulbs (front, back, side repeater) are just enough (when cold) to pull enough to fool the flasher, but for subsequent flashes the bulbs are a bit warmer (higher resistance = lower current) so it doesn't get fooled again. - I don't think it's a deliberate feature, but Western makes a good point (it's convinced me enough to edit my post) - most cars have side repeaters = better adjusted settings?

It's there to provide enough current to excite the field coils in the alternator while the alternator isn't generating enough itself and the warning light is blown. When the alty does spin fast enough, it self excites so the alternator terminal goes to +12v and the warning light goes out (if working). According to the wiring diagram if you're convinced the resistor has blown, you could hack a 100 ohm 5W resistor accross the ignition live (white) and the alternator warning line (brown/yellow) pretty much anywhere you can get to.

Lashings of penetrating oil / diesel and hope or, as rtbarton says, give up. I never got mine to come out (25 years in situ at the time). To get the tube hot, you could make a hole in the xmember and blow lamp it? Never tried, mind.

Do you think the spring might rotate in use? If not, why not add a lip to the spring seat so that it retains the toe of the bottom turn of the spring? The spring would "wind on", securing it (perhaps a better system at the top to stop it rotating?)

Chock the wheels Remove the middle seat and panel Release the handbrake fully Remove the split pin and "clevis" pin that holds the fork on the end of the handbrake cable onto the mechanism bolted to the gearbox Find the square adjuster on the brake plate and do it up until the drum won't move, just Adjust the handbrake cable sheath (two nuts at gearbox end) until the fork lines up again Reconnect the fork (new split pin please) Back the adjuster off two clicks Replace the panel and seat Apply handbarake Remove chocks

Check to see if you connected the turbo hoses up again properly, and that the pipe from turbo to manifold hasn't popped off.

No sense of adventure, some people.

You need a screw extractor - Screw extractor set - but it isn't easy.

The "slip joint" is indeed the sliding splined but near one end that allows the propshaft to lengthen and shorten as the axle goes up and down. To test it, grab the propshaft firmly near the transfer box and pull / push it sideways. The slightest bit of movement means the joint is worn (= new prop ) With the handbrake on firmly, how far can you rock the car backwards and forwards, and does it make clonking noises at each end of the travel? If not far and not , then definitely the transfer box. If so, then is could be half shafts (side shafts).

Check the exhaust pipe to manifold or turbo elbow to exhaust joint (there shouldn't be any black soot round them).

My Grandad used to swear by a teaspoon of washing up liquid in the header tank, cheaper than a hyped-up brand name. There are only two items that can squeak in a water pump, the bearing (which will squeak when its rusty) and the seal which keeps the water out of the bearing. if wahing up liquid stops it immediately, then it was probably just the seal. Are you certain its the pump? an over-tightened fan belt can cause a similar noise, and will shorten th pump bearing's life too.

I think part of the "flack" is because Landys look best either in "showroom sparkle " finish or "heavy day at the quarry ©" with metallic hints. This is true of no other car in the world. We wear our Farmer's Wings with pride!

Aha, the rain's stopped, I'll get me camera. Done I thank you.