errol209

e.g. at 1600 psi and 10 litres per minute and 50% efficiency (so turning the steering) = 3.7 horsepower. At 100 psi (a worst case value for the PAS box doing nothing) this figure drops to 0.2 HP. I suspect mechanical losses in the gearbox exceed this

PAS pumps get used for hydro winches, and at peak elastic trickery winches use about 6 - 8 HP, so less than that - a hydro fed this way will go quite sloooooooooowly. If anyone knows the peak PSI and lpm values for the PAS it can be calculated ...

Bugger, I'll have to design one now . Give us the weekend?

Reverse doesn't have synchromesh though, so the sysmptom fits with a dragging clutch keeping the input shaft turning. Anders, with the engine running, the middle seat and cover up and the box out of gear, does pressing the clutch pedal make any difference to the noise the box makes? If it does not, then 100% dragging clutch.

How much extra detail exactly? can I assume they have normal colour vision?? I was going to say its only a pair of couplers and a couple of bits of 10mm pipe, but I get the feeling the plumbing analogy will have to have a lie down now ... Sadly, launch of moon mission will have to wait for suitable atmospheric conditions in the Preston area

1) turning big-isolator tap off with engine running no good for electricity pump (alternator) under front access cover (bonnet) as lack of electrical back pressure causes electric pump to cavitate 2) 100% successful method of stopping diesel-fuel motion-boiler (engine) is to turn off incoming fuel solenoid valve (mounted on top of burner distribution unit (injector pump)). Just put a gate valve (normally closed switch with bling cover) in the white wire connected to the top of the big lump on the side of the bolier engine, the one with four metal pipes and three or four plastic ones coming out of it. Close the gate valve (open the switch switch) = no boiler engine.

Realistically - probably not. It could be the clock itself or it may be struggling with low battery voltage (but unlikely). Flippantly - fit an overdrive and see if you can go fast enough to get relativistic time dilation to help ? Ridiculously - source one that uses the national time signal broadcasts ("radio controlled") if such a thing even exists?

With a single momentary switch the best you'll get is wash while you hold it down, and then one wipe (after which the wiper will park) - we should be able to concoct the wiring for that. Better would be wash while you hold it down, followed by a timed set of wipes (say 5) and then parking. This is a bit more complex and you'll need to be able to solder. The standard switch is push to wash, and either wipe forever or off. What do you fancy?

You can get a special stop that fits on under two of the axle flange bolts - I'm sure someone will supply the part number, but they give you an extra 20mm of steering lock stop bolt to play with. (Its a little angled thing with two holes )

Ahh, I remember it well, that heady higher and holier-than-thou feeling, utterly impregnable. The new and novel experiences of trying to change a wheel bearing in the snow, the gentle caress of a Rover diff as it settles on your shoulder like a 50 kilo snowflake, even the soothing melody of a broken half shaft ... Love 'em or hate-them-in-a-loving-way, you can't beat 'em! Welcome to the club!

30mm is for the radius arm nuts - 41mm seems closer!

While this thread is live, the second cambelt change is due: can anyone tell be the AF size of the bolt which holds the crank pulley on on a 2.5TD? Thanks.

Don't panic, Western'll be along in a mo

Help! I can't decide - Cubby Box or Middle Seat? The seat I've got needs re-upholstering, so should I do that or replace it with a cubby box? Your votes and views please!

If you know the piston area of the cylinders in square inches (pi (3.141592654) x radius squared), multiply each by the PSI value of the air and add the two results (probably equal area cyclinders, so just double one). PLI is pounds per linear inch, so divide the result above by the length of the roller in inches. Done.

so BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel) rather than BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper). Note that a male BSPT will screw into a BSPP hole, but a BSPP male won't screw into a BSPT hole. I thank you

That sounds like a dead commutator sector, and the motor just stopped with a brush in the wrong place. See photo of commutator bit. This may also explain the problem russpaul is having?

Not even vaguely helpful I know, but a case in point - my trusty trolley jack was commissioned (from the local engineering firm) by my grandad (bless him) to lift his Austin - the thing is nigh-on 70 years old and will happily pick the heavy end of the 90 (if you block it up enough) and virtually the whole of the 109 (under the gearbox X-member) My moral is "You get what you pay for". Worth a few extra pennies if its going to get a lot of use.

99% likely to be the hazard switch itself.

Yes (near the bottom, note 4 about designated passenger seats in the load compartment)

Err.... with a possibility of a hint of "rive off 4 badly rounded and seized nuts and 4 stretched bolts per flange, throw away, replace with new items correctly torqued up; seek medical attention for skinned knuckles"

Perhaps a diagram might help?

Do you drive the Hoover in the picture too? Welcome to LR4x4.com, hope you find as all helpful!

Remember to put the bolt heads towards the middle of the propshaft (nuts on the gearbox / diff ends) to make removing the bolts easier in a hurry

You have company email, but the Dobbie the Outlook Elf says you won't get it for a bit ... Small world, innit ...