Andrew Chua

having personally done this on a Td5, i believe it's worth the money. You get a quieter vehicle and it's more 'car-like' gearing shift. do not need to drag the gears so much at a 1.410 box. If you do lotsa highway, then you can see it's value and appreciate it.

I've broken this off from the original thread. I've checked my Td5 and I do see the unit there. Assuming I have a nanocom with me, what exactly do I need to do to get it working? I'm really fearful of screwing up and imobilising the engine and have it towed over to the stealership only to be reset and disable and I'm back to square one. Where do i connect the CDL unit to once the 10AS alarm unit can work? Is there some relay that I need to tap from the above unit?

ok, looks like it's the battery. time to go and get one. thanks!!

This has got me thinking. how do i actually do this on my own. I'm using some aftermarket car alarm. but does not do the imobiliser bit. how to i get this working?

yes, you can fit that on the rear door. you need a strip of metal with round holes (how do i describe them?) they are the ones used when you wrap around logs and the round holes allow for large nails to be hammered in when building a log bridge. then link that to the push rod and then to the lock pump. done. it's almost diagonal across the rear door. works well for me. so the pump actually pushes the rod to push that metal strip with round holes which is hooked to the rear door lock and slides is up or down.

it never used to do that. but lately it does. considering the age of the battery of 6yrs, i'm thinking that the voltage drops too much to sustain the gauges. it's a 2002 Td5.

When i start my truck cold in the morning, my fuel gauge will go instantly down to empty upon engine crank and then immediately back to the correct level when the engine starts. do i have a problem with the fuel pump, electric grounding or is the battery a problem?

if you have used your truck off road, sometimes the drain off for the heater gets choked and water collects in the heater box. this gives the rise to steamy windows. on the other hand, check the hoses that go to the heater matrix, those are from the engine cooling as well. however, there might be a remote possibility that the heater matrix itself has a tiny leak and hence a lil of the coolant is going thru. when you pull the lever to the cold position, it actually shuts the valve to stop the coolant from flowing thru the matrix and the out pipe hence the leak doesn't happen. you might want to check the position of the cable as in your case you mentioned less hot when put to cool. hence there might still be some coolant circulating past the matrix (radiator) of the heater hence you still get heat. hope i'm making sense to you.

Edd, How did you custom make the center console to house the touch screen. I'm still figuring out the best way to mount mine. for now it's one of those suction windshield mount.

it's not an overly difficult job. it's just cumbersome. Well, when you have it out, might as well change the large oil seal near the handbrake too. no point having to pay for labour to do it later.

yes. it comes with 2. there is also a single aluminum disc attatched to ones of the set that tells you the key nunber.

Cool, all's well now. replaced the seal, cleaned the entire brake drum of all the t-box oil. almost 18 pounds for that seal!! not my idea of fun.

The transfer box has been removed recently about 4months ago for a ratio change. Not sure if they put it back proprerly. But a small puddle of brown oil appeared on the floor this morning and it seems like oil. I haven't been off road for over 6 months. So must be bad workmanship when they fitted the thing back. I'll go scream at them tomorrow!! Recently i noticed that after 3 clicks on the handbrake level, it doesn't even bite.

Hi all, I've noticed small puddle of brown fluid dripping down from the hand brake drum today morning. While reading thru the topics, there seem to be talk about if it's coming down from the flywheel housing it's the slave pump that has failed. Am I barking up the right tree to say that the slave pump for the clutch has failed? or has it gotten so bad that even the hand brake drum is screwed? or could it be the t-box fluid is leaking into the brake drum? not sure what colour the t-box fluid is thought. any thoughts? Andrew

usually the fuel pump starts to show signs of failing after 100k km. Although it's still pumping, it's no longer at it's optimal. I've this problem on my Td5 and i'm just sitting around on it till the pump gives up before getting a new one. Even when it gives up, you can still start and drive the truck to get it fix, or you can attempt to change the pump yourself. check if the fuel pressure regulator is leaking too. another common fault.

You can't test drive a defender in singapore from the ONLY dealership too. I'm totally puzzled still till today. you can test the range rover or discovery though.

To solve this problem once and for all. You get yourself a new harness, connect it up, reseal the injectors, and introduce a cut in the loom and use connectors to join the wires together. Why? so the oil doesn't come down the loom into the red connector and screw up the ECU. If ever the oil gets down again, they will collect at the connector which can be then cleaned out without getting it all over into the ECU and pcb inside.

The serpent belt you have just seen drives the alternator, starter, air con, power steering pump. Of cos there's a belt tensioner there too. The timing chain you can't see, until you remove the engine head is just at the front of the Td5 block. There are 2 chains on this block. If you ever need to change this chain, something bad must have happened to your engine block and it's going to cost you a lot of money. The other reason you will ever see these chains are when you need to re-seal your injector seals, when you have engine oil on the red connector in the ECU. you will have to open up the block.

mine did this once on a downhill and i jumped. ok, i found out that i didn't engage the t-box fully. yes, it will drive, but then under heavy load, it will pop out. So what am i trying to say here, i believe that it's not engaged properly as you can drive the truck but it jumps out under load. why it's not engaging properly is a tough question. There are possibilities that either the linkage is bend, broken, or some bit has created a mess somewhere in there. to drop the box and overhaul it is not too difficult. if even you've check it's sitting engaged properly and it still jumps out, better get it fix or the hill incident might just happen.

installed this in singapore. got the parts from ashcroft in april when i went to the UK. if you have easy access to a 230q transfer box, then it's easier that way. if you live where i am and land rovers are like hens' teeth, i doubt you'll be able to rip one off a discovery that easily. 1. you notice it will be quieter. oh yes, 230q stands for quiet. 2. you need less revs to maintain how you usually drive eg: if you always did 70km/h you'll find that the same revs you did now gets you to 80km/h. 3. saving on fuel, if you're doing lotsa highway then it will be about from 9km/L to 10 km/L. Labour would definately be more expensive in the UK to remove, disassemble and refit. i paid about 400SGD to get mine done up. So the total damage was about 350 pounds to get that going.

As this problem starts to bug the Td5 owners, has anyone out there every thought of making a kit which allows one to add a hatch to access the fuel pump just like in the discovery? Like a nice aluminum cover hatch? I just hate butchering up my floor for that. If i had no choice, i'd remove the entire floor and then rivert it back. heck a lot of work, but at least i don't get a leaking floor when i decide to take it for a lil dip or when water gets thrown up from giant puddles.

did they put the 4 looms back correctly to the fuel pump? check if they are loose or dirty. I'm not an expert in this area, but since no one has checked, it's a good start. change the diesel filter as well and see.

i'm not sure about in the UK, but the fuel quality here in SG is pretty good. I am using a MAN truck filter at the moment which is the same size and can acomodate the water sensor too. However, true to what the $tealership told me, there's more pressure from an original land rover filter thant a 3rd party one. Hence it gives a very slight increase in performance. This is more noticiable to me, especially so cos I have a very light right foot. did someone say 40k km lifespan for an original?! hmm, i've just chucked out mine at 20k. Price wise, damn, the original is really expensive, it's like 100sgd for one vs 29sgd for the MAN filter.

usually you do not need the water sensor, but it's good to have one around when you are going to no man's land. epecially when you head off into the wilderness and crossing rivers. what i do is that i keep one in the car while i just put on a dummy plug onto the fuel filter. I only pop the sensor on when I'm driving the LR across the boarder where the fuel quality might be a problem. This sensor breaks easily after 2 years of use as the fuel is hot returning back from the engine. Hence with time the plastic just cracks and will snap off when you try to turn it or melts into the thread of the fuel filter and will snap when you turn it. You should try to remove the sensor monthly so it doesn't get too stuck to the filter, if you must have one there.

i'm also having the same problem here. short of deciding to install the sun roof which will hold the headlining up, what's the next option? how to stop this thing from sagging?