Andrew Chua

tell me about the variations. ha ha. mine's 94mm.

They originally came with a piece of lable attatched to each spring saying which goes where. Anyway, if i remembered with my kit, i fitted the longer ones behind. If you have a 110, then the rear ones are larger, so there's no problem determining which ones goes where. With the 2 inch lift ones, do remember the tighter packed coils are on the top. My left and right coils are 1inch in height difference too. The defender is supposed to list to the PS, for some very strange reasons.

265/75/16 will go on fine without much fuss. However larger tyres like 35" will still go on, but as they are larger, they hang lower and might get caught up when you do a V-gully. Hence you might either bend the carrier or the body panel. Solution, modify the carrier so that the tyre is higher. however, the higher you go, the less of the rear you can see. Well something has gotta give.

welcome to the fine art of driving a series land rover!! Most likely the bolts are loose along the steering column shaft or the linkage from the box is loose. I've had this in the bushes before and a quick tighening of the bolts sorted it out. You should be able to turn the steering wheel, but you'll feel resistance instead of free play.

try low range? or it could be the bearing on the input shaft in the main gear box? or try t-box in neutral and rolling the LR, any sound? I'm just guessing cos it could be either of what you said.

Function locked? usually means that the function you are trying to access in the nanocom has to be 'registered'. You just hop over to the nanocom page and register your unit and then bug them for an unlock code. This is what my pal told me when he encountered the same problem. You need to input the Td5 injector codes to the ECU. Each injector has a code which is on the injector itself. If you use another ECU that didn't come with the engine, you need to tell the ecu these codes before it will work.

it will work, but i won't risk it. although the safari snorkel has some technology to expel water being taken in at the top, it's a 2nd layer of protection should any water go down. However, the air filter too, should also stop a little water from going into the engine but in the long run it's not an ideal situation. Try to fit the pieces correctly and you can live with a peace of mind that it's been done the right way.

Hi all, I've been experimenting with the best position to put a GPS puck receiver. Currently it's sittiing on a suction windshield mount which some what gives it a blocked view as the defender windshield is nearly vertical. Hence if I decided to move it to the roof, how to i make this fella stick on and not get stolen. How would i run the wiring out without drilling holes in the roof or any other place as I hate to get a leaking land rover. the unit is a gps 18 from garmin. I've a pc happily mounted to make use of it's data.

yes, it will fit. Your original t-box (LT230T) has a drive reduction on the high range at 1.410. The disco t-box has a drive reduction ratio at 1.222 (LT230Q). As you have mentioned you have a 200Tdi, you might not have enuff power to pull away quickly without slipping the clutch often, leading to rapid wearing of the clutch plate. Worse still you might not even pull away uphill with a full loaded vehicle. Yes you can do some tweaks, but you'll be happier with a LT230T box for a 200Tdi. Alternatively, you can buy the box and do a conversion to the 1.410 ratio. Not sure if the disco 99 uses an electronic speedo drive cable. if it does, you can either convert your speedo to the electronic type (Td5) or change the t-box to the mechinical type without too much fuss. correct me if i'm wrong, but T stands for torque and Q stands for quiet.

ok, so there's nothing for me to worry about. cool. i was thinking that i needed to overhaul the gearbox soon. thanks guys!!

Hi all, I've been having this problem of shifting into gear to while the truck is rolling along at about 20km/h. It seems to be blocking me to shift in until it drops down to about 10km/h. However, if you're stuck in slow moving traffic, you can't pull away in 3rd and since the truck is moving you can't go into 1. Once the box is warmed up and done about 4km it will shift properly. No problems after that. shifts are very smooth and no grinding. I've not noticed anything unusual other than that. I've just changed the oil. this blocking at 2 already happened before that and the oil change was not due. another thing is that it usually will grind on the first shift into 2nd in the morning. hence, if i drag my gear 1 for about 200m thru the carpark before changing, this does not happen. it seems to me that something in the box is not getting enough oil when started up? or could this be a problem with the clutch? or it's pump. i've checked and the master has done over 40k km and the slave has done over 120k km. both are not leaking. t-box has just been overhauled 1.5mths ago when i fitten the 1.222 gears. I'm just puzzled as to what to do next. the box is a R380 on a 2002 MY Td5.

better to put one of those corner bumperettes that wrap round the underside of the corner. it really prevents the edge from getting bended and you can step on them to wipe off bird droppings on your shining roof. ha ha. they work very well for me!!

oil in the injector harness is a common problem right up to 2004MY defender Td5. Although LR claims they sorted out the problem in the MY 2000 Td5. It usually starts to happen after 100k, or even as early as 80k. If you don't catch it in time, you end up with what you got and you have to replace the entire harness. If you're in the middle of the bushes, then you need to simply clean the contact and reseat the harness everytime the MIL lights or the engine starts to do erratic things. It's not the end of the world. if left alone, oil effectively seeps into the PCB of the ECU and screws it up, hence you'll need a new ECU after sometime. What I have done, is to effective insert another terminal block by splicing the harness. This prevents future oil coming down the line and screwing up the ECU.

thanks for the info. No fuss, no vibration and they still look greasy. last did them last dec. hmm, it's time to grease them again.

just a curious question. having cover over 120k km on my defender, should I just change the U joints or do i wait till they start to scream? this truck usually sits on the tarmac with the ocassional green laning, so i doubt that 2 off roading sessions would have inflicted any damage to them.

something to ponder about when replacing your springs, is the final ride height. 1. do you have a winch / bull bar on the front? these fellas are really heavy stuff and you don't want you truck looking like it has tired springs even after changing them. besides a truck with the back end sticking up too much is not my cuppa tea. 2. do you have to get the truck into a gararge? or do you visit a lot of multi story car parks? i've scrapped my roof far too many times even when the height limit says so otherwise. 3. higher, might not always mean better as no doubt you can fit taller tyres, but bear in mind you shift the CG of the vehicle, you need custom props, trailing and radius arms on anything more than a 2" lift and even with that, your axle case will still scrape as they aren't that high up then they were initially unless you decide to junk them for portal axles too.

they don't look standard to me. i don't think the original 110 springs are progressive springs.

antistall still works. no problem, just that the truck moves faster. so might not be so ideal for really crawling traffic. TDCi defenders have a gearing ratio in high at 1.211 Effectively when doing this mod you transform a LT230T box into a LT230Q box. Make sure you let the next owner know when you sell the truck as the kit ashcroft sells doesn't have the 'sticker' to remark the transfer box. I'm pretty impressed by the way Dave Ashcroft replied me on every email query even from the presales to the post sales questions, very fast too. Well, everything for 1/3 the price of the GKN. I think it's a good mod.

yes, i've just done this mod. immediate notices are, it's quieter! ok, that aside, the LR drives more like a car and you don't have to rev the engine so hard to get up to the change up speeds = save a few ml of diesel each time. pulling out of a junction, you get out of the way faster, as you can rev up the engine higher in gear 1 without feeling like the engine is going to explode. you cruise easier, if you usually stick between 90km/h to 100km/h, if you are usually running faster than these speeds, then the GKN overdrive will be a better bet. downside, less power in hill climbing on the motorway especially in gear 5. however, it will still accelerate, just slower. an engine tune or rechip will solve it instantly. if you do towing or run around with a fully loaded truck, then i don't think this is a good choice. i haven't off roaded with this setup yet, so i'm not sure if you'll find climbing out of a tiny ditch in high 1 a problem, but there's always low 3. hence, if your truck sits 95% of the time on tarmac then it's not a problem.

Yup, the way to remove it is almost the same like the disco. however, i believe that there are differences to the part itself when you replace it. the 90 and 110 are different part numbers. But they look the same to me, so i'm still wondering. do note which cables goes where so that you won't have to guess later. alternative to not having to cut a hole in the floor, is to drill out all the riverts on the floor board and just lift it up. you get a clear view of the entire tank and pump if you need to inspect it.

sliding windows tend to rattle as they age. if this REALLY bothers you fix the non sliding variant like what i did.

Td5, when new are pretty linear. However as they age, it seems like they slower at the top, then once pass the half mark they drop by twice the speed. However, not to fear, when the fuel light comes on, you have exactly 9L in the tank and depending on how you drive you might or not make it to the fuel pump. The Td5 fuel float does tend to stick a lil as it ages hence the erratic reading at times. but regarding the last 9L, it's a fix measurer hence it's not related to the float.

There are a few different ratio for high, but the lows are all the same. They start with the 1.222, 1.410, and the 1.6 : 1 Most defenders are fitted with the 1.410, unless it's a late Td5 County spec 110 which could have been in the 1.222 ratio. Have a peek under the box, you should see a sticker almost at the lowest part of the box bearing it's ratio. Might be cover with loads of mud, so you might need to clean it a lil. About the ratio thing, if you have a 2.5TD, i doubt you will have the power to pull away easily on the 1.222, so a disco t-box might not be the best bet for you. I've just did a ratio swap from the 1.410 to the 1.222 on a standard Td5, and I find it just nice to pull away, but it will suffer when offroading and fully loaded. So check the box ratio, if you can't find the lable, you can open up the cover and count the teeth like what Dave from ashcroft told me. It can be hard to find a good condition 2nd hand box as you can't really test it out fully if it's already sitting on the shelf. If you have the cash, get a rebuild one as it will save you lostsa headache and cash in the future when you need to take out the box again should anything go wrong.

I have them on my Td5 90. Very good. Have them on for about 2 years. Got them together with a kit when i changed my entire suspension from scorpion. apprently the reseller here in sg is pretty good as i've heard tonnes of bad reviews abt the guys in uk.

yes they are handed. they all list slightly to the passenger side. what remains a mystery is why is it so. My only conclusion is that it helps the water drain off the landie.