Soren Frimodt

Some more weights for the list: The legendary Toyota 3B from the BJ's with a crude homemade adaptor for LR trans, made out of thick steel plate. Wet and ready to run: And a Cooper Discoverer STT 37"x13,5"-16" on a 10" Modular: 54,5 kgs

So then, treated the ol' gal to some new shoes today: 37"x13,5"-16" Discoverer STT's and on the pictures they are at 5 PSI at the front and 3,5 PSI at the back, giving me a contact patch of 30x30cm's on all 4 corners and a pressure of 2,25 kg's pr. cm2 A little less than me standing on both my feet

If we weren't so darn far apart I have a 6 cyl LR shortblock with flywhell clutch etc you could have for free! It has thrown a rod so not worth much, next stop the scrappy!

Red-dragon, I've blatantly copied some yanks and have had great succes with fitting a second Facet pump to draw the fuel back from the fuel bowls at the desired float height, works brilliantly. Thanks for the input on the carbs, the decision will probably come down to what's best value at the time. Won't be purchased anytime soon anyways

Great stuff, keep us updated I like seeing different approaches to the ongoing topic of fitting portal axles. I have been involved in a couple myself and its a great challenge that can be done in 100s of ways. If you look up 'Mog90' in tools n fab I believe you'll find one of the ways we've done it. Eventually I found out that 411 axles are much better suited as they are equally strong but much narrower so there's plenty of room for discbrake conversion etc. without making the track too wide

had a set of dirtbike grips at work that I slammed on there tonight:

Suppose I could've done something with 2 sprockets and a chain.. They would be way to long as I've cut the ends (and the center) of the handlebar down. Think I'm going to fit the MX type No more unlikely than there being two of me?

Well today both of me (according to Deep) have been working, started out by jet-washing the 80" from yesterdays shenanigans in a mixture of rain and snow, bl**dy cold, bl**dy wet and bl**dy awful!! Then I turned my attention back to this and found a place for the fire extinguisher: And then I tackled a job I had completely forgotten about during the build Would've been much nicer to have done before sending it off to the painter, but forgot my plan completely.. The job was fitting a handlebar for the Co driver to hold on to, nothing worse than sitting in the passenger seat and having nowhere to put your hands, so I got creative: POV from the passenger seat: And finally I gave it a quick lick of paint. Going to fit rubber or foam handles to it:

Finally the nose-bar has returned and been fitted:

Looks like a good mix of the 4x4 classics; Land Rover light arrangement, Jeep grill and G-wagon doors and handles

Wolfrace, is what they say in the casting, I don't know what the model is called but I doubt you'll be able to find them new anyways. I really like the Rally look of them, hard to find new ones like that

With regards to spring wrap, there are easier solutions than those of mine and Frigde's. This one I've tried myself and it worked great against wrap but is a bit 'bindy' so suspension travel gets a bit limited, not a crazy amount though, won't ruin anything. I actually stole the idea from one of your countrymen in '08 at the ALRC Nationals where I say it on a Trialler Sorry for the crude Paint CAD Nyt bitmapbillede.bmp

If you have rubber mounts in the trailing arms, and they ahven't loosened the bolts in them on the axle, they will try to twist the diff forwards. That misalignment doesn't look bad at all I think its just the assembler not taking everything into account, and not having ALL bolts Loose, you really need to because it sits so tall without any weight on, even on genuine springs

I have just been through something similar in these cold mornings. The 88" was terribly slow on the starter and I had to give up on starting a couple of mornings. But as soon as the Sun had been up a couple of hours (still below zero though) it would fire right up. And it didn't matter how good a battery I hooked up. Turned out to be the gap in the points! Had to look back at my old teachings about points ignition and the ramping of the ignition to realize that because the gap was too big the ignition happened too fast and therefore too early so the starter couldn't crank it over. Why it was worse when really cold I don't know, but maybe because the air is denser. Maybe this is your problem as well? Could be worth checking before swapping out the startermotor

Not that much progress in the shed these days. With the same Siberian winds hitting us as you guys, everything is frozen solid. Some useful stuff has been done though, one 5 minute job was flipping the filterbox so the snout points at the firewall which should greatly reduce the possibility of water splashing into, and soaking the paperfilters when speeding through water sections: Also, remember how I was moaning about SU's being hard to find? Well now I'm almost swimming in them, got this nice oldschool pair today with the remote bowls, will refurb them and maybe fit them next winter as they have a couple of benefits to the later ones I have fitted now (easier to clean in the field and less heat around the bowls) Right now its parked up as I have some jobs to do on the 80" and this gave me an opportunity to take a picture with the small wheels I have fitted now for better access. For what it is it actually doesn't look half bad on these little 265's it would make a great trialler like this!

Thank you very much for explaining what I meant Mikey!

From the bushes flexing, it is actually quite visible if you take a look at a coiler ascending a steep, loose climb. And sure this can be somewhat cured with stiff Poly bushes, but then you sacrifice even more articulation

Looks nice and soft I can't see how that's a hindrance?

I beg to differ on this Daan, as axlewrap/tramp is already quite pronounced with everyting in stock form, big horsepower and high traction (as in roadgoing) will be terrible. This is where I believe the parallel 4-link with a panhard is far superior as there's a lot more separation between the fixing points in either end. If you want greater roll stiffness its as simple as fitting an anti roll bar, which has the benefit of being disconnectable. So it'll Work better both on and off road with greater axle control yet less binding and more flex if you so desire

Yes and that is what makes all the difference. Its basically because its a big difference in roll centre. The vehicle will easily 'Flop over' when most of the weight is put on one wheel.

So the thief won't mind making noise by using a drill to take out the screws, but as soon as he has to swap to a drill-bit to drill out the rivets underneath he gives up? really? I hate to see all those reports of theft on here, I really feel bad for you guys over there in the Birth place of our beloved cars, is it mostly gangs from foreign countries? Or just stupid countrymen of yours?

Remember how I was whining about we didn't have any snow yesterday Todd? Well today we finally got a bit, and its still coming down so maybe, just maybe it'll be somewhat proper

Problem with one-link though, is it handles like cr@p Works average offroad, but terrible onroad. 4 link with a Panhard (5 link to some) works the best in every situation but is a PITA to package so 3-link is a decent compromise. But of course a proper setup one-link handles better than a poorly setup 4-link so as always comparing can be difficult

Oh that one, yes probably a vertical rib to spread the load from the bumstop

The little tab in between the two ribs you mean? with the hole in it? I'd imagine its for those HD Military bumpstop thingies