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Mark

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Everything posted by Mark

  1. oh, OK, got worng end of the stick then! I hadn't seen it in the int. forum.... doh!
  2. Has this been moved to the wrong forum??? Dosn't seem like anythings for sale...
  3. Would that be a Bobtail pickup??? coat on, running for the door... Mark
  4. Mine has something to do with my first car...... Mark
  5. I've registered - It's got to be worth a try. I do over 25k miles a year in my car, not couting any milage in my Landys, so it would make a difference!
  6. Afternoon, You finally registered then.... Sorry I can't be much more help, but I'm sure somone who actually knows about Rangies will be along any minute! later Mark
  7. OK, I have a Series 1 Disco, and most of the floor matting is pretty wet. I know the rear floor has rotted out in several places, and I know there are one or two (!) rusty bits on the floor areas. These are going to get fixed, but if I don't want them to happen again, how do I minimise* the water entry into the vehicle? There must be some common areas that always leak, can anyone point me in their direction, and the best way to cure the leaks? Thanks Mark *Minimise - It's a Land Rover, it's going to leak!
  8. Ha Ha Ha! Tony you must be a mind reader! The rear floor is almost non-existant, so as well as replacing the sills, I will be replacing most of the floor too! I might well make a separate post about it, but I think my plan is to strip out all the carpets and matting and do the whole lot - sills, rear floor, rear wheelarch panels (either side of the floor). I am not entirely sure what I have taken on These coilers do seem to rust a lot, didn't have any of these problems with my leafers!! later Mark
  9. Ahhh! Suddenly everything becomes clear.... Cheers Trev. ps Stand by for more Disco Newbie questions!!!
  10. .. but where is the bonnet release lever on a SI 200 TDI disco? I can't find it on mine anywhere..... anyhelp much appreciated! Thanks Mark
  11. there were no replies here when I started that!!!
  12. M6 x 1 is a 5mm tapping hole. a quicj google search will give you loads of sites with tapping drill size charts... try here for example Tap & Die company - I have also bought from them and tey are very helpful. Not cheap, but very helpful!!! Cheers Mark
  13. Just to add a slightly differnet spin on this, I bought a cheap chinese helmet from eBay for £30. I do not weld every day, or in fact every weekend, so I don't feel I can justify the £120 for a decent helmet. The eBay one works very well, and for the amount I use it was well worth the cash. If you ar gooing to be using it all day everyday, then there is no contest, However, if it is just occasional use the chinese solar ones are very good value. Incidentally I got mine about a year ago, from an american seller. took a few weeks to get hee, but was about 2/3 the price of the same helmet from a UK seller. </2p> Mark
  14. What's the calliper from? Mark
  15. New Rims should fit on older studs shouldn't they? I have 2 SIII rims on my IIa, and I thought the 90/110 rims were the same as SIII? Given that the wheels are hubcentric they should be ok??? Mark
  16. GPS Info is a utility that came with his GPS module...
  17. From memory of doing my IIa it is all done with 1/4 UNF nuts and bolts. I don't think there are any captive ones... will have to check the ltwt when I get in though... Mark
  18. As I think has already been said, you want the bolts as close to the end of the workpiece as possible, ie if you are bending a 6" bit then the bolts only need to be 6" apart, and if you are bedning a 18" bit, then 18" apart, etc. nicked the picture from the website: As per siggy's diagram though, I would think that using angle rather than strip for the non-bench half would be better, as less likley to bend as you make the bend... a thread for simply made fabrication tools in the tech archive would be a great idea! Cheers Mark
  19. 'fraid progress has slowed a little, cos of other commimtments, but rest assured, I will update when some progress is made... Thanks for the comments around ply vs mdf. I have fitted the aluminium ones for the moment, but he wood option is till open! Hydraulic on the toylander??? Got any advice on pedal powered pumps nige?? laters Mark
  20. I saw an ad, by nick for a damaged Disco. I am not sure if it is this one, or a previous one. However, Nick has been around 'here' for at least as long as I have (getting on for 6 years now in various incarnations) and I always look at his ads as he usually has something interesting for sale, and usually at good or at least realistic prices. When I saw that his ad had been deleted, I thought it was a shame, cos someone here could have benefitted from what he was selling. I don't really care if he is profitting, or if has cold be seen as a trader, or if he has contributed to the discussions recently. In my mind what he was offeriing could have been a good deal for someone (as yet I have not been in a position to take him up on anything). I was also kinda dismayed to see it had just been deleted, no discussion (at least not publicly). I am not entirely comfortable with that level of censorship. We are not talking offensive postings, so it at least could have been left open for discussion. In a vote, I would say let him post it. No one actually loses from it after all. </2p> Mark
  21. My personal opinion is go with a good quality second hand machine. I use a Myford ML7 (which to be fair isn't really big enough for some of the things I want to do, but it fits in the workshop!). The chinese machines are getting pretty good now, but I like the old style quality... Keep an eye out here cos there are always lathes for sale, and they are often less than the eBay prices. There are however, plenty of people on here with lathes and opinions on them, and more importantly far more experience than me.... Cheers Mark
  22. The 'Heavy Loam' setting for the wipers? seems very appropriate!
  23. I have indeed thought about the strips idea, and to be honest, have not discounted it! The idea of using the MDF rather than the Aluminium was to maintain the same surface finish. MDF has a really nice sealed surface which takes paint very nicely. Sanding tends to remove the nice sealed finish, so the paint is absorbed more. I have to admit that I don't much rate ikea furniture, and have been known to refinish items form them or say 'sod it' and make it myself... I will continue experimenting! Thanks to everyone for the input. B) Mark
  24. Steve, No apologies needed! I'm really just trying stuff out! I might well have a go with some thinner material - they seemed to have thinner at the wood shop, so I will see what happens. I may also give it a go with ply on the inside, but as I said, I will go with the aluminium caps if the wood method dosn't work! Thanks for the help! Cheers Mark
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