Mark

Dave, I already have the aluminium formed ones... I just like to try new things out when I get the chance! If the MDF route proves to be unsuccessful, I will use the ally... Mark (see the title under my name...)

OK, Imagecave seems to be working again, so here is the jig I made: and another angle: The outer pins are removable. The inner rounded MDF corners are to replicate the blocks already attached to the Toyalnder. As such the piece that i need to produce has the top layer wider than the under neath layers thus: However, the result of my testing just a single layer on the outer most radius gives this result: I will give it a go with the back of the mdf grooved, and see if that works... Would Ply be more flexible? I could build up the bottom layers with ply, and put an MDF face on the top? Any more ideas? ta Mark

OK, last night I had a go at this bending MDF game. I have made up a jig for the right radius (65mm on the outside face, so an internal Radius of 53mm using 4 sheets of 3mm MDF). I have some photos, bu imagecave dosn't seem to want to play, so I will post them later. Anyway, I thought I would try a piece to see what happened. The answere is the MDF snapped! So I guess I need some advice on how to make it more flexible! I presume that steaming it is out of the question, as wet MDF has the structural integrity of a pile of sawdust, so what else is open to me? Cheers Mark

There are a good set of build pics here which might help... Mark

looks to me like the lids are supported by the edge of the tub: Mark

Les, That is a very good point! Does that include the rear cross member? Another question on really early 80"s - Where would the sidelights be? in the wings, or in the bulkhead? Cheers Mark

are you planning to come to the old sodury sortout at the end of the month? if so, I am sure we can arrange something! Cheers Mark

Rob, either you have a lagre bedroom, or you sleep in the garage????

my '68 had plastic when I pulled it out of the shed it had sat in for the previous 15 years - it has plastic now too... Hope that helps (?) Mark

A guy on another (VW) related forum works for hella, and often deals in their lights. If you drop him an email explaining what you are after, I am sure he can help - simon.baker@hella.com Cheers Mark

Young master Mark??? scary thought....

Steve, Thats really informative, I think I will give that a go! I presume 3mm is available, so I will have a look.... The laminate method has the advantage that the surface is still smooth (as per the rest of the MDF) whereas using a block would leave another surface finish, and would take the paint differently again... Cheers for the info. Mark

I thought about the flexi-MDF, but I havn't used it, so wasn't sure if I would get a tight enough curve. Hopefully with proper prep, then the ally shouldn't look any different in the end. Proper etch priming and filling should give a decent result I hope... Cheers for the feedback - much appreciated! Thanks Mark

Spent most of today continuing with the Toylander. Got the inner wings and the riser panels fitted: Then fitted the wing tops and fronts: The curves on the front of the wing will be filled by a piece of aluminium rolled to the correct profile, but I have left them off for now as they will need priming and prepping differrently to the rest of the tub. Then the Chassis Extensions, the front X-Member piece and the front panel went on: Next I decided to see how it looked with the bumper on. The bumper didn't really line up with the chassis extensions, so I decided to recess it into the base board to get it nice and flush. As such, I routed out two grooves to accept the bumper mounting arms: Having done that, the bumper was trial fitted, and the holes drilled. I have bolted it on, but the bolts only have wing nuts on them. They will have Nyloks after final assembly. Mmmm... Nice and flush with the chassis extensions - just as solihull would have wanted it. Flushed with the success of mounting the bumper, I decided to trial mount the rest of the metalwork - 2 axles, the braking mechanism and the steering. This involves a lot of work on the bottom of the tub, so it was turned over and supported by a couple of peices of 2x4: The rear axle trial mounted ready for drilling: No pictures of the front or the brakes, as they are all pretty similar to the rear axle procedure. At the end of the day, I got enthusistic, and wanted to see how it would look with the winch fitted... I now have the basic tub finished, which means it is time to paint it. At the moment I am planning to paint it in Land Rover Light Green as 1) I think it looks great on early 80" S1s and 2) I have a big tin left over from painting the IIA! I am going to paint the chassis bits black, althought I am tying with the idea of silver for that just galvanised sort of effect... opinions? The plan at the moment is to brush paint it, cos I don't have the gear to spray it. Anyone want to volunteer thier spraying services? Cheers Mark

Another suggestion, but how about having a forum for questions about the forum, or IT, or suggestions for improvments to the forum? cheers Mark

I am really just after the relay, rather than a kit. I know I can get it from VWP (right at the bottom of the page) but am still looking around... ta Mark

I am after an intermittant wipe relay too. If you could forward me his details too, I would be grateful. Thanks Mark

Did some more to the Toylander today. Mostly it was more body building, which started of by adding battens to the side panels: Having done both side panels, they were then added to the tub along with the bulkhead that you saw clamped up above - suddenly we start to have something that looks a bit like a series 1 land rover: The back piece was next to be added: The rest of the day was taken up building up the inner wings, which I will hopefully add tomorrow This should make the front end look a lot more complete by the end of the day, with the wing tops and fronts. I also spent a while cleaning and painting the metalwork that will go underneath - axles, braking mechanism and steering components are all supplied in bare metal, so some of them got a good wire brushing and clean before being coated in shiney blak hammerite. If I get any progress made tomorrow, I will post some more pictures then. Cheers Mark

actually, I have one hanging up in the garage that I might be persuaded to part with... Mark

Todd, I have the Hif6 SU carb on the lightweight. The manifold is indeed a specially made item, but mine came from Automotive Component Remanufacturing (aka ACR) as part of their Stage 2 upgrade kit. I would be inclined to talk to Roland at ACR and see where he gets the manifold from and/or if he has any - he could also supply the carb I guess. I have no idea on cost, as the truck came with the kit fitted. I can find pictures if required. Cheers Mark

Bob - so called cos he does! LR-content is that is favorite sleeping place is on the top of the tilt on my IIa! Mark

I have a (supposedly) 90l tank in the Ltwt behind the bulkhead. It reduces the loadbed by over a third.... Cheers Mark

Ha ha - I hadn't thought of that! Toylander GPS! cool... Mark

If your lights are in the wings on your IIa then you will need the very late IIa grille, rather than the one shaped to go round the lights in the slam panel. Mark

right now, i am sitting on my sofa perusing the forum with my newest toy - an hp ipaq pocket pc. so, i was poking around when i found a link to the lo-fi version of the forum - and it is precisely what is required when using a tiny screen! well done whoever thought of it! only one slight issue is that i cannot seem to post or reply from the lo-fi version. are there any plans to change that? cheers mark