Mark

You don't have your location in your profile, so I can't comment on legality, but I can't see any problems with it. Trucks are over that height generally, and if you have a caravan attached, you are going to be close to that height. I can't see the problem with the tow bar mounted type though - if you have the caravan on, that then plugs into the electrics. If you don't have the caravan on, then use a trailer board. you only need one or the other. The advantage of the roof mount over the ball mount is access through the back door whilst the bikes are loaded. I have used the thule type roof rack carriers on saloon cars with no problems - you don't remove the wheels for these ones though - If you are interested, they could be for sale... Cheers Mark

moved as requested, posts removed to avoid clutter Mark

I would be inclined to check the condition of the output splines on your main gearbox. They are notorious for wear on LT77's due to lack of lubrication. easiest way to check would be to drop the cover off the back of the transfer box, remove the input gear and inspect the inside of the input gear and the spines on the output shaft. hth Mark

As a Note, Lenny's 1991 floor will be steel and welded in, whilst Neil's 1985 will be aluminium and riveted in.... An Aluminium floor can be fitted to a steel floored car - see the tech archive for pictures - but you also need the rubbers from the end, and the metalwork round the edge needs to be good (ie repaired usually) so doesn't get away from the need to weld... Mark

Imho Land Rover Light Green should have a Sand coloured hood. Not an 88, but this is my 109 Truck Cab (sorry for the rubbish old photo):

Adrian are there arny spacers on either of them such that you can put the right pulley on the new alt. without if siezing solid?

On my discovery timing chest the threads are M10 I believe. I can't help you with part no's for the tensioner though, sorry.

These are what I have on my Series2a, and I got them from a guy at billing (who mentioned that they are boat fittings) but it might be worth talking to the exmoor trim or the like who supply hoods?

By the sounds of it you would be better off buying the fittings you need - form the sound of it you want something very similar to what holds the canvas straps at the back of a defender or series truck, and are reasonably easy to get for small amounts of cash. You would probably spend more on petrol going to the storage place to get the warming kit out?? generally I prefer to make rather than buy, but this really doesn't seem worth the effort... Mark

Cracking effort! Would be good to see this in the wider press I like the modification to the dumper for rut repairs.... Mark

John, I'll have a look at the spare system I have and work out if it fits yours and let you know. Cheers Mark

Where in the system is your cat john? On out 03 plate the cat is part of the manifold, and seems to last fine... I _may_ have one kicking around if although I wouldn't like to vouch for it's condition.... Mark

Moved to defender Forum....

You need to have the vehicle up and supported on stands so provided your jack is up to it, it makes no difference really. Access to the suspension turrets is pretty good with the engine in place, so personally I would sort the engine out, then sort the suspension out. 1 job at a time makes it far easier to complete...

The only reason you will need longer hoses is if your new shocks allow the axle to droop significantly more than the old ones did. Personally, I would be inclined to swap the suspension out, and then see how much droop you have before committing to change the hoses too. 1-2" lift doesn't usually need longer hoses, bit it really depends on how much droop you get... Mark

Why not stick with Standard? You are not after lift, and you are not doing anything more than the vehicle was designed to do. Admittedly you might like HD rears, but genuine springs are hard to beat, and genuine shocks whislt not bling are good quality and not expensive. I am assuming your truck is a good few years old now, in which case the old stuff will probably be a bit saggy, so I would suggest that replacing springs and shocks with new genuine kit would get you where you wanted to be. just my 2p... Mark

Cracking Pictures Barry I for one have really enjoyed the series this year. We have had mixed fortunes in the series, but progressed, developed the truck, and ended on something of a high note for us. Thanks to all involved, we appreciate it. Cheers Mark

It's not a belleview - it is what I would refer to as an 8074 (although there is some debate as to if it should actually be referred to as an M8000) The belleview has a different brake arrangement, and only powers in, freespool out. The freespool on the 8074 9as above) is actually very good, far better than an 8274. I modified the lever on mine (as it was broken when I got it) to be activated from the front though:

Yep, should be there, virgin atlantic permitting... seems like a whole world away to me tho!

We have no idea if it actually is amsteel blue - it was supplied by rockstomper, to the trucks previous owner, and the assumption has been drawn based on what they supply....

Steve, We did the first round of the challenger with rockstomper (amsteel blue?) and broke it 3 or 4 times. We changed to Bowrope and haven't had an issue since. We were attempting to choose between Plasma 12 and Bowrope, but the Bowrope won on price. Both Adrian and I have used Bowrope on our other trucks in the past too, and not had any issues with it. hth Mark (Team 4)

Alternatly acquire a Large 'Zarges' type box and throw your camping/personal kit in that when you go somewhere. They are water and dust proof, but means you can just lift off you personal kit and leave the recovery gear in place.

mikey, it's called turning...

mikey, go and buy a brass blanking plug from the plumbers - 1/4" BSP (I think... do a search for wading plug thread and see what comes up) Quiicker and cheaper than turning one yourself. then drill and tap M8 (you will need to 'lathe' that...) and then turn down the end of an m8 bolt (I think I used a 40mm long one) so it fits into the slot on the flywheel. screw the blanking plug into the bell housing, then screw the bolt into the blanking plug, and you will be good. I thought I had a picture of mine here, but can't lay my hands on it... Timing pump pin - use a 9.5mm drill bit (or a piece of drill rod). Mark

What age is the discovery? The only issues that come to mind are that the 300 series discos have 3 bolt flanges on the diff rather than the 4 that you will need. Other than that it should bolt straight on. I couldn't comment on the brakes other than that if the Disco had ABS there will be 2 separate lines rather than a t-piece... hth Mark