Mark

I have a Metabo - which is excellent, and by far the nicest to use - was the most espensive one screwfix did at the time. ~£80 used for cutting and wire brushing I have one which I cannot remember the name of which is supposed to be made by makita, but half the price and was on offer in screwfix at that point in time. Works very well, no complaints. not as nice to use as the metabo. ~£35 used for grinding and wire brushing. I also have a Powerbase one from homebase. Only gets used for sanding, but only cos I always need a sander. Despite abuse and getting warm, it seems to refuse to die, and is now about 6 years old. ~£20 The more expensive machines are far nicer to use than the loud vibrating cheap machines, but the cheapo's do the job for very little money. All the above are 4.5" grinders, but I also have a 9" Makita which is a lovely bit of kit. If you end up using a big grinder, it's worth paying the money for a decent one. The difference between the makita and the B&Q cheapo one I used to use is amazing. Cheers Mark

I have only broken one of my IIa's diffs, and that was pulling away very gently on tarmac, up a slight incline, I suddenly had no drive. On taking apart it appeared that all the bolts holding the crownwheel onto the cage had sheared off. Talking to other people this is not an uncommon way for them to fail, and is essentially down to age. I have also managed to snap a halfshaft whilst driving slowly on flat tarmac, again just due to the age of the material, so I wouldn't rule that out. drive flanges are an easy first place to check though - if they are ok, pull the half shafts. If they are both OK, then time to have the diff out. hth Mark

If the rear prop is going round, then the problem must be in the axle... Either the diff has failed - in one of several ways, or you have a snapped half-shaft. Mark

two of them are just grounds, essentailly, so can pretty much be ingonred! to swap them over you just need to swap which solenoids are operated when the switch is thrown in each direction...

would it not be easier to just swap the terminals in the solenoid box coming in from the remote socket?

Providing your freelander dash is black, I would have thought it could be done quite neatly. You would have to cut the rubber mats to hide the join, but I can't see anything that would come out too bodgey...

what is to stop you fitting one of those to a freelander dash?

The Freespool works very well, but as you point out it could be prone to getting muck in it stopping it working. I believe the one that David has is like this (as installed on Orange's Truck) and is a prototype, but the production version will have a slightly different arrangement on top with no flange to trap rubbish in.

glad I was sitting down.... :S Time for an alternate plan then..... Thanks for the information David. Mark

reids were never a franchise - there are/were a local independant speacialising in Land Rovers. TBH they have always enjoyed a dubious reputation at best, so the news does not surprise me. Mark

As an aside, the air freespool that David is using in this kit has been developed by x-eng, and works very well! Mark

As an aside, I just noitced that your boxes are 400x600mm - this is a standard Euro crate size, so you shouldn't have any difficulty finding good quality boxes to fit in the same space if you decide to go down that route.

Mark, Not sure if it's a route you want to go down, but a set of series 88" van sides could be picked up pretty cheaply and fit in place of the 110 sw rear window panels - removes the windows from the security issue, and probably a lot cheaper than a set of side grilles too? you can always swap the window ones back in when you come back? Boxes - as has been said, really useful boxes are excellent (and are occasionally on offer at staples). if you can run to it, zarges ones are superb though and really worth the money (second hand money, not new money!). Alternately, why not knock up a couple of flight cases? Would it be worth swapping the bungees for ratchet straps? something that will actually hold down the heavier items in the event of an acident - gas canisters, jerry cans and the like? they can be had fairly cheaply from eBlag or b&q.. The cooler doesn't look especially accessible in that position either. Would there be any milage in removing the middle rear seat and putting something there? or putting the cooler in the footwell for the middle seat where it can be accessed by all occupants, and you don't need to unpack the rest of the truck to get to it? just a thought Cheers Mark

DirtyDiesel's Mog axled G-wagen has a 300tdi in it. Unfortunately I know nothing more than that tho, and DD is out in russia with HOFS at the moment, so information is likely a couple of weeks away.

air free spool? (front and rear?)

Orange and I will be there... Is there a consensus as to where 'there' will be? is it still tixover? Mark

Looks like a Superwinch Ox. I have never used one, talking to someone who has indicated that they are not particularly good. hth Mark

how about one of these: not pictorial, but does exactly what it says on the tin... available from x-eng or mudstuff if you want a sheet... Mark

Get Dad to do it one evening!

A, You can always let it down a bit to slow it down, and get it to flow better off the brush. You would be surpised how much we thinned the light green when we brush painted the 2a. A splash of white spirit will slow it down, and allow it to flow, but don't do the whole can, just a bit in a separate tin... Mark

There are usually different classes depending on what modifications you have broadly they are along the lines of: Standard - ie standard car with 1 winch (it's a winch challenger after all) Standard +1 - Same as above with 1 winch and 1 other traction aid - ie another winch, a locking diff Standard +2 - as above with 2 aids Modified - all mods are allowed. To further complicate things, tyre size rules can be applied - for example a maximum of 35" might be in place (and is might be physical size - ie bloke with a tape measure or stated size - ie whats printed on the side of the tyre) There can also be restrictions on silhouette - ie the bodywork still has to resemble a land rover (particulalry with ARC rules) to stop people using tubed buggies, bobtails, traybacks etc. There may also be a stipulation for the vehicle to be road taxed to run in some classes, so if you already trailer everywhere, that could be an issue... The classes above are not fixed, just some examples of ones I have come accross. You really need to work out what competitions you want to get into, and look at thier class structure. Most will allow big tyres, multiple winches and Lockers, but will likley put you into a 'modified' style class. Have a look on the AWDC website, and the Challenge Southwest one for some idea of how the class structures work... Mark

can't anserw all your questions, but... The BMW engine is badged as a TD4, the 2.0l L series engines are not badged as as such. I think W is a little early for the TD4, but I stand to be corrected. My dad had an early one on an X plate from new.... Spares? eBay has loads of freelander bits, new and secondhand. Not sure on a good place other than that online though.... hth Mark

Matt, thing 1: Do a search, this has been covered many many times before - there is even a sticky thread at the top of the tools and fab forum... thing 2: How much do you plan to spend thing 3: there is no real right answer - just things to keep in mind when looking for a welder thing 4: really, do a search, there is a real wealth of knowledge here.... Mark

You should use a long enough bridle that those forces are reduced to minimal levels. Ideally the legs of the bridle should be longer than the distance between the recovery points so that more force is concentrated along the lines of the chassis than is being used to pull the two recovery points together. hth Mark

Whatever the final resolution is, the vehicle being registered on the 90 details is wrong. At the very least, it sounds like you will need to go down the SVA or IVA route, and the vehicle would be completely illegal to drive on the road in the meantime. This is obviously just my humble opinion, and if you were to submit the vehicle to DVLA for a Vehicle Identity Check (VIC) there may be a different outcome, but I doubt it. hth Mark