Mark

don't suppose you have a beige one do you nic?

Ben, indeed it does, but my tom tom doesn't take a grid ref - I just wondered if anyone had a postcode.... Mark

Does anyone have a postcode for the site, or at least one that will get us close? ta Mark

I currently have this setup on the back of my Disco as I tow several different trailers, and need to be able to set the hitch height quickly and easily, as well being able to remove the whole lot similarly quickly: It is a southdown tank guard and removable hitch plate, with a Dixon Bate Ladder attached to it (slightly modified). As far as achieving my aims it is perfect - easy to change and remove as required. However the saddle on the ladder pivots on the single pin, which is noisy, and a little disconcerting with heavier loads. Does anyone know if there is a saddle available that has 2 pins through it or if there is another ladder/saddle arrangement that does not allow the saddle to move? If anyone has a spare saddle, of a complete arrangement I would be very interested. Thanks Mark

agreed - nato hitch bolted through the cross member with spreader plates front and rear using 8.8 (minimum, 10.9 or 12.9 is good) grade M12 bolts. I used 8mm spreader plates.... Mark

I have also deleted the copy in the Discovery forum.

Hi. Looks neat - the eberspacher heater install pics would also be of interest. Did you do anything to provide a cold air feed to the airbox, or are you happy with the air coming from within the engine bay? Presumably you removed the pipe that feeds air into the airbox from the inner wing? I did similar with mine, but wanted to fit a snorkel as well, and the whole thing got a lot more involved! Cheers Mark

My mrs came down and took a load, but she hasn't uploaded any yet... as soon as she does, I'll post up a link Cheers Mark

Orange and I had a rather less successful day than hoped - having bust a CV after only 6 punches only then find rounded off calliper bolts and that we were carrying the wrong CV as a spare... Eventually got it sorted after borrowing a special socket, and raiding Paul's box of axle bits, but by which time it was 3pm, and we didn't want to risk breaking it again... We did fit the special stage in somewhere in between though, which was really good fun! So, less successful for us, but a good day out. Just means we will have to do a lot better on the last 2 events... Thanks, as ever, need to go to Paul and Lucy, all the marshals et al for putting on another cracking event. Thanks also to those we borrowed tools and/or bits from to get the truck home - you know who are! Cheers Mark

drop nobbymogs on here a pm - he runs nobby's signs Mark

Ah, makes more sense now

Thanks steve

Pete, why not stick a freelander body on top?

Orange and I will be there in Car 4... which is parked on my drive, so I guess that means it's ready.... Mark

Indeed, I'll second Chris's recommendation. top bloke.

The phosgene is produced as a result of heating the tetrachloroethylene in an air free atmosphere - that is the heat provided by the welding combined with the shielding gas stopping any oxidisation (as would usually happen in air) has produced sufficient poisonous gas in this instance to cause those effects. The brake cleaner in it's normal form is as safe as it ever was (!) and naturally would not cause the effects. There is nothing in the cdc article that casts doubt on the account in the article - to my mind it seems to support most of what the article says. Les, are you saying that you fully read all the instructions, warnings and the list of ingredients when using products... just my unqualified 2p... Mark

oooh - food for thought definitely. have to admit that I tend not use use chemicals when I am welding - physical cleaning (ie grinding, sanding, etc) is the only way to get things really clean. Mark

Again, I am afraid my experience is a) limited and b) maunal only... I towed Orange's challenge truck from Peterborough to Maidstone with Orange's stage one tuned TD5 Manual D2. Power and brakingwise, I had no problems whatsoever. I did not have to do too much gearchanging, at least I didn't feel what I did was ecessive, and I did not have to hold the revs, or overerv the engine to get reasonable perfomance. The only issue I had was with the tail end, on coils, not feeling as safe as I would prefer. This may have been down to our loading of the trailer, but my 300 Auto with Airbag helpers in the rear springs felt far safer (if woefully underpowered and hot!). Conclusions from this would be: a) stage one tune is well worth the money b) airbag rear helpers are really excellent (I knew this anyway...) Cheers Mark

Dan, you are also their publicity shot for their listings on eBlag...

sounds like a good price to me. you should have all the swtichgear and looms that go with the compressor as and the 2 solenoids as well. cheers Mark

The other culprit is seized up Uniiversal Joints in the steering linkage - especially if you have been playing in water. Dowse them in WD40, and work the steering left to right, and see if it loosens up at all. The proper fix is to fin new UJ's but the WD40 trick should loosen it all up. Mark

Can't answer the fist two, but the roller cover only fits the 5 door models. The 3 door ones have a solid plastic affair, which if you want a genuine one, is 'kin expensive! I have been keeping my eyes open for one for some time noe - they do turn up on eBlag tho, and someone is producing a copy, but I have no idea how good they are... hth Mark

I have the option on my TIG machine to switch the HF to Off, Start or Continuous. With the HF set to start, it will activate to establish a weld pool, and then stop - used for DC welding - set to continuous, you get HF all the time, helping to restablish the arc after every switch of polarity (ie on AC welding). Off is used for arc welding. Mark

When I measured a set of 37x12.50 creepies on 16" diameter 8" rims they came up at nigh on 35.5". hope that helps. Mark

Personally, billigshurst, as it's just down the road... end of discussion...