Timmy511

im not fully up on hydro steer or how it all works but..... why not run a standard steering set up, rig a chain and sproket on the end of the steering column / on the steering linkage going to the pas box, then drive the orbital valve by a chain, then you adjust the gear ratios with different size sprokets to match the speed of the standard steering box for the speed of the ram. then it would still have all the mechincal link and be full hydro assist using a ram from a forklift or simliar mounted to the axle.

gwyn lewis - alternator bracket, hes got alternators too. Winch rope - ruftraks (Andy Thomlinson) - 125ft of 11mm plasma - if i could afford it id be using it, if your on a budget, you can get dyneema cheap off ebay, ive only used mine in one event, seems good for the money. ground anchor - x-eng / devon 4x4 - x-eng super light, devon 4x4 very strong easily mounted. waffles - ebay - the get damaged easily and on ebay theyre cheap! Winch motor - gigglepin - ask them, they have the REAL answers reguarding winch motors as theyve extensively tested them.

well chuffed with that! i wish were in the country next year as id be doing alot more! next time im thinking just a rear winch and a couple of minor mods and ill be as happy a pig in mud with the car. are there anymore events between now and february? cheers, Tim.

I competed today, and i really enjoyed it! I have to say a big thank you to John who co drove for me, Johnothan and Graham who lent me equipment for today, i really apreciate it lads! I think john and i were a bit aprehensive as it was my first time driving a competition, along with no rear winch, no cage etc, but it went really well and made me enjoy off roading again. Thanks Buxton and District for holding the event. Tim.

imo, its a fuel problem somwhere along the fuel line. when you rev hard it from tick over and then let your foot off the pedal does it seem as though its about to stall? if so check all the fuel lines and connections for leaks, theres a bowl filter on the chassis, these rot, get perforated and allow air into the system. this can also happen at the tank on the sender unit. wire brush all metal pipes and check for pitting, if it is pitted/rotten the chances are thats your problem.

good good, now just 2 weeks to get the bex sorted and its all good!

Entry sent, tuedays first class, sorry for the delay. just need to sort a few minor things out now and were all good to go!

dont let looks decieve you, for the price the Hankooks are very very good off road.

second hand diff, 40 quid. changing the diff, an hour max. its very simple to do, 1: Drain the oil from the diff. 2: remove both half shafts (unbolting the drive flanges and slide the shafts out). 3: Remove the 9/16th nuts from around the diff, carefully move the breakpipe mounting plate up and out of the way. 4: CAREFULLY pull/lever the diff out from the axle and get a good hold of it as theyre heavy when your layed on your back. 5: rebuild in the reverse order above. 6: refill the diff with EP 80/90 oil. 7: remove the old drive flange from the prop and re-fit the prop. Job done.

ive only got a co driver for the sunday or i would.

i thought you sold that. guess ill see you there ty. Right, got a co driver, entry in the post today. looking forward to it.

im trying to get a co driver, if and when i get a cert, entry in the post. Tim.

its a simple order of events: Wheel off Caliper off disc/hub off Stub axle off then the cv comes out through the hole left by the stub axle. rebuild in reverse. easy peasy.

how the hell as that happened? Loose blet? seized idler? i cant understand that the crank gear has flanges on it so it shouldnt be able to move to rub on anything.

i asked this question to Jake at devon 4x4 yesterday. He told me, ATF fluid or SAE30 but no more than 0.2 of a litre.

cheers guys. just need to confirm some of the technical regs. matt/mrht please see pms. Thanks.

whats holymoorside like? is it open or wooded. i really want to have a go at a challenge event.

next play day is the 15th. i should be there.

black chassis enammel paint as used on commercial vehicles.

ive used it in mine and on a 300 tdi 90 with 160 thou on the clock, the owner of the 90 was amazed by how smooth his gear changes were afterwards. i dont drive mine enough to notice! lol.

it sold on devon. best way to go with a leafs is to emulate the old gone2far kit for massive articulation, buy some revolver shackles from the us, make some pivot mounts for the front dumb irons and make new shock mountings. if your going for standard shackle set up, use standard landrover spring and remove leaves until your happy with the performance, they flex alot more than parabolics but youll run the risk of breaking springs. on my series i ran +2" rear shocks, standard rear shocks up front, parabolics, millitary shackles and got some very good results. if your going down this route id fit a locker in the rear as the whole vehicle usually follows the front axle (due to the lack of movement) and leaves a rear wheel waving. ive always had a theory, if you put the shackles on the front dumb irons instead of the chassis like jeep and suzuki sjs, the front end would move alot more as the wheel tries to climb up over obstacles and pulling the spring streight therefor compressing the spring. might be worth a try. you could move the engine and box forward by running defender wings, bonnet and front pannel, but itll look aweful in comparison, this would allow you to fit an auto box but the weight distribution wouldnt be great. you could also go down another route and make a 100" leafer, wich would allow you to fit a defender lt77 box or possibly an auto. itll also help with the RTI of the finished vehicle meaning less work required on the suspension. i still love leafers, they give alot more wow factor when you drive through difficult sections, the only thing i hate is being bounce out of the seat even at 2 miles an hour!

my uncle was a fisherman, he keeps telling me i need to grind an area clean on the chassis and fit a sacrificial anode (as this what they used on the boat), this then rots befor the aluminium and steel due to it being lower in the galvanic series hence protecting the steel and ally. an explanation wikapedi sacraficial anode Tim.

the saying buy cheap buy twice comes to mind here. id go genuine, you dont want to be taking the box out and rebuilding it twice for the sake of trying to save a few quid.

drill a hole the same size as a shackle bolt in a piece of plate (make the plate big enough to cover the bush and the side of the chassis), place bolt through bush centre, place plate on the opposite side of the chassis, place a nut on the bolt and wind it up a little so theres some tension holding it all together, G clamp the plate to the chassis so that it holds the bush tight into the chassis, tighten the bolt, pressing the centre into the bush. if it is too tight itll push the bush out at the other side as the bush swells then you will need to ream the chassis.

stanley blade and scotch bright. then grease the new gasket, itll come off alot easier next time and seal better.