Tobias

I have set both rave.exe and AcroRd32.exe to Win98. But no shortcuts... It doesn't work for me. Did anyone put the extracted PDFs somewhere? thanks Tobias

Any possibility of being able to buy the Webasto controller ? Thanks Tobias

I took some pictures, but it's almost impossible to see the Webasto. From bulkhead I have heater box, washer bottle, under washer bottle webasto, coolant tank The second picture is inside the wheel arch showing the bolts that fix the webasto. It is situated basically on top of the frame rail, but attached to the wheel arch, not frame.

I have LHD 300tdi. I fitted under the screen wash bottle. Not much space, but enough. Needed a few hooked cooling hoses to hook it up. Works fine. Some people prefer to change to a td5 washer bottle, situated under the lh wimg, which frees up space in fron of the heater on a LHD vehicle. it was my planned route, but since I found the space under the bottle, i didn't bother. It's a Websato TT C I have mounted. T

i would guess the water pump and/or water circulation and/or low water level, as other people said. Most problems I've had with webastos and volvo heaters have been with water pumps siezing up over summer. Gives your symptoms T

Could you please give more info? Who sells the adaptor shaft? Cut how much? Anything else I want to know? Thanks Tobias

Following this with interest, as we have started talking about Scotland for next year. Which "Military road", please? Google maps has 4-5 of them... Thanks Tobias

so if it's short key now a new barrel with key is needed and then it should be fine? Thank T

Hi all, regarding a late 300tdi 90 (VA132...) It is supposed to have door handle 395037 as far as I understand. We intend to install central locking in the future and I was looking at handle FUB500060 which is supposed to fit 2A... which has central door locking mechanism. Anybody knows if it will physically fit the door of the 300tdi? The electrics for the central locking I assume I will figure out eventually, short term it is just to get it fitted with a normal barrel for key. Thanks Tobias

I always want to keep the tc fixed for as long as possible, being a bit paranoid about the tc slipping out. The bracketin the photo looks neat and if you keep that in place until the last moment, measure the depth of the tc below the mating face before you remove the bracket and then remeasure before starting to bolt it up you are fine. Also stop if you sense any resistance to "sliding in". I once had forgotten to remove the bushing in the crank nose used in manual engines when converting to auto. I stopped in time when i felt resistance but were very nervous until i could test drive it... good luck! T

ballcock, you might have luck opening the water pumps u and spraying wd40 or similar inside and try to work them loose. I've had success in resurrecting pumps. T

Pull on the kick down inner cable. Just before it is all the way out, you feel an "indent". A resistance to pulling further, that you can pull past, if you pull harder. You should adjust so that at full throttle movement, pedal to the floor, you pull past this indent. I hope this was understandable, T

If you hesitate at taking it out, it's a big job. The A-clutch is at the front, so you do not need to dig deep in the box. I did this, basically, just not changing it out once i was deep enough, since the clutches were practically new. The box worked fine but I wanted to change A-clutch preventatively as the box was out. Read up, get the relevant manuals, I have them if you do not find them elsewhere. There is an uprated A-clutch from Alto. This is what I found in my box, so was very happy. https://www.ebay.com/itm/303253027697 No ill effects from me opening it up in only reasonably clean environment. it isn't brain surgery, just don't do it on a dirty floor. Good luck! T

on a 300tdi you need to swap out the speedo drive gear in the LT230. The disco square hole is smaller. If the same applies to a TD5, don't know. Test your speed sender in the hole before you put the box in. It is possible to change with the box in place, but much much easier on the floor. T

Bowie can you tell more about cheaper Transmission controllers, please?

Not in a Land Rover, but still... It seems we will be spending some days in the Birmingham area coming saturday-wednesday. Apart from the obvious Gaydon museum, what else is there to do on a Land Rover theme in the area? John Craddocks is nearby. More? Thanks Tobias

Well, the ADAC (German AA) towed us to their local garage. They didn't have time to work on it. I asked them for an indication, in parallell to asking here and a facebook group. They towed us across the street to an independent. "Zooauto". I later learned that there was somewhat of a Land Rover specialist a few hundred meters further. but it was only a day or two later and all was already well underway by then. Since my 130 has an engine and autobox from a Disco, with the EDC pump changed for a mechanical. It was a few ooh and aarghs when I gave engine numbers and so forth. For some reason the head gasket that arrived was wrong and when the correct one arrived the engine overheated, thermostat was deemed culprit, removed and the cooling system overheated. Head was deemed cracked. a German "Facebook"friend found a head "locally", I borrowed it and a week after the incident we were on our way again. The workshop was friendly, we could camp on their backyard, borrow their courtesy car to go to the showers and to Abenteuer Allrad fair some 80km away. IMG_8968.MOV

Anyone know if the ambulance length arms are available from anywhere in Britax brand?

I haven't solved it. The arms are quite new and has been like this since new. Longer ambulance arms from Paddocks. I am still looking for an improvement.

Solved!

More info eill follow. Any indication welcome. Tobias

Anything ever came out of this? Tobias

I am not asking whether it is what people rocomend. I know it is not by the book. I understand the hub on the pump will be mis-aligned in relationship with facotry procedure, but the whole pin-in-hole thing is just because most people changing a belt doesn't have access to the DTI procedure. I haven't heard anyone claiming the timing pin being more accurate than the DTI-procedure, but many claiming it is not accurate enough if it is not done by DTI. My suggestion above would be just as good as any, using the DTI, correct? It will leave me with a mis-aligne hole in the hub, for using the timing pin procedure, which I am ok with. It will allow me to put in a boost ring while the pump is out. It will allow me to change my dubious pump for a known good pump. It will NOT allow me to align the cog wheel for the one tooth out at this stage, but soon enough the engine will go out anyway and the pump hub misalignment can be fixed then. After summer. So what is wrong with my suggested procedure. Why will it not work? Thanks Tobias

That didn't exactly answe the question. I am more interested in hearing why you think it is a bad plan than to explain why I haven't removed the front cover. I know how to remove the front cover. I know I haven't done it. I know removing the front cover will not give me the accurate timing a DTI will. Why will my suggested plan not work? Thanks Tobias

So, having studied the internet and youtube videos, I now think I have a plan: Use a dial gauge to accurately determine my currently available timing range. (e.g. 1.30 to 1.45mm) Use a tool to be able to remove the pump without disturbing the belt. Loosen the pump hub to reset to the desired timing range. (e.g. 1.47 to 1.62mm) Reinstall pump and set desired timing with indicator gauge. (e.g. 1.54mm) The timing pin slot will be out, but the timing will be right. OK? T