RustyNissanPrairie

bargain squashed oil pipes http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rover-defender-90-110-200-tdi-oil-pipes-for-turbo-landrover-4x4-/281076135855?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item41717177af why use the dustbin when you have an ebay account!

Not sure if posted already but this is worth a watch for the old RR's alone! http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b01r1cnw/Madness_in_the_Desert_Paris_to_Dakar/

I see the point, I have a 11J in my 110 (1991 MOD) but fitted with a gas flowed head and massive Donaldson air cleaner. It did pull like a train for a good 6 years and has taken me all over the place. Its now pretty worn though (original 22 year old engine-not a MOD rebuilt one), I was seriously considering rebuilding it but then I happened upon a really low mileage Defender200tdi engine so aim to fit that instead. I like the simplicity of a non turbo/NA engine especially if speed isnt your main consideration. Its just a pity of being limited to 2.5litre, a nice 4 litre lazy NA would be nice!

I expect this is Lisa's 1st and only post for some reason.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/unfinished-project-cargo-transit-/261158942177?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cce4935e1&_uhb=1 Range rover.....................lights

fitted a 1.2 to mine, didnt like it for towing and 1st and reverse are too high, fitted a 1.4 back in after a few months. Will be fitting an overdrive at rebuild time.

yep Michelin XZL's / OR in a 7.50 size. Brilliant tire, had 2 sets on my 110, 12ply sidewalls so quite harsh ride compared to the BFG AT's on now, big heavy buggers but grip well offroad and quite well mannered on road wet or dry. A little noisy and v expensive new.

easy - undo the bolts, and gentle pry the chassis rails apart with a farm jack/hi lift/bottle jack etc and the cross member falls out.

xzl's are a brilliant tyre, had them on my 110 and they lasted a good 4 years.

xzl's are a brilliant tyre, had them on my 110 and they lasted a good 4 years.

if you still have the original 2.5NA engine then dont worry - you'll never go fast enough to worry about the lack of grip from G90's!

x-member off. Jack the chassis rails apart with a farm jack or equiv

everything you need here; http://pdfcast.org/pdf/defender-diesel-turbo-tdi-engine-kit-fitting-instructions-stc939d

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rover-discovery-1-200tdi-engine-full-rebuild-4-mounths-ago-/251205163386?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a7cfe997a nice engine stand!

Defender-300, did you have the fasteners, lifting bracket, pulleys, injector pipes etc replated? reason I ask is that I have a low mileage Defender 200tdi that I want to freshen up before I install it and Im looking into passivated coatings and was just wondering if you'd done it or they were new components?

hammerite is carp. use Rustoleum combicolour - miles better and you can get it in any RAL colour you want - custom mixed

1/2" BSP or 3/4" BSP - cant remember of top of my head

You want to try towing the largest 3.5T Ifor box (loaded) trailer with a 2.5NA engine and a 1.4 ratio transfer box on a 300mile round trip - fun!!! not

can you rewind the armature to half the winds it has at the moment?

stick to Allisport i think - at least they can spell

north manchester - rossendale valley. Have an M8 one

p38...........................................pickup! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-LTD-EDIT-AUTO-BLACK-PICKUP-1997-4600cc-ONE-OFF-/160895873420?_trksid=p2047675.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D555001%26algo%3DPW.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D126%26meid%3D2999230822766787258%26pid%3D100010%26prg%3D1071%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D251173234763%26

Okay gennys are best divided into 2 camps; 1. Newer inverter units ie Honda EU series, Kipor Sinemasters etc (think TD5 / Puma) 2. Older 3600rpm units. Honda EX and EM series, Kawasaki GA series, etc (think 200/300TDI's) The inverter genny's are ideal for running sensitive equipment as the power and wave form is constant, the older 3600rpm units give a 'dirtier' power output that is prone to variances in frequency and voltage due to the mechanical governors controlling the engine speed/electrical output. Laptops and electrical items that have a seperate power supply are generally fine to run from 'decent' older non inverter style genny's as the capacitors that take the hammer of the electrical fluctuations are in the power supply unit, the worst that happens is that they fail resulting in new power supply or a bit of inventive soldering to replace the capacitors. I've run a laptop all summer from an older Honda EX650 with no problems but wont trust it with my Waeco fridge The inverter genny's can be economical but only if run in 'eco' mode so for example if you run a 100w bulb from an EU20 - the engine would only be ticking over- nice and quiet and economical. If you needed a 1.6kw load then the engine is running flat out-noisey and uses more fuel. Older non inverters run at a fixed 3600rpm to give 50hz@230 ish volts irrespective of load, fuel economy dosnt change too much loaded or not. The first thing to decide is how what size you need baring in mind the maximum loading/vs rated loading of generators - Honda EU20 is 2kw max/1.6kw contant. Honda EM650 is 650w max, 550w constant @60hz. Its also not good to run large generators with little load, or small gennys with a large loading. Once thats decided you then have a few choices. Honda EU10i - okay but aluminium cylinder bore with no liner so worn out after 5 years and fit for the bin. inverter output, lightweight Honda Eu20i - brilliant but expensive, inverter output, dosnt like being left on 'eco' mode for too long as it glazes the bores - not that quiet due to the way sound levels are now measured on generators. Honda EX650 - old but the quietest genny ever made, 650 max watts, 60hz mode for flicker free lighting, heavy, 5hours run time, keeps value well even when 20+ years old, none inverter output, heavy Honda Em650 - pretty much same as above but louder, bigger fuel tank, long run times, heavy. Honda Ex1000 - as above but 1kw max, heavy Honda Ex800 - same as above but smaller output Yamaha EF1000 metal cased (NOT the newer EF1000is which is same engine as Honda EU10i with same top end issue), ultra reliable but spares not as common as Honda, residual prices lower Kawasaki GA1400 - 1kw output, AVR (voltage regulator) so smooth power output, ultra reliable, but quire rare, noisy, heavy Kipor Sinemaster - very cheap compared to Honda, inverter outputs, questionable long term reliability compared to Japanese stuff - but worth a look I have a Honda EM650 in my unit/lock up that I run most tools/lights from. £80 off Ebay. bulletproof. Also have a EX650 for camping due to sound levels - absolute brilliant piece of kit. Parts are still available and they can be easily repaired if needed. Em650 that is running too fast (needs governor arm adjustment screw tweaking) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-EM650-Generator-Spares-or-repairs-/221142595425?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Tools_Generators_ET&hash=item337d203761 LPG'd EX650 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-EX650-generator-with-gas-conversion-kit-/110964834683?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Tools_Generators_ET&hash=item19d605017b Kipor 1kw http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kipor-IG1000-Suitcase-Inverter-Generator-FREE-DELIVERY-FREE-LOCK-/270925422319?pt=UK_Campervan_Caravan_Accessories&hash=item3f1469deef http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IG2000-KIPOR-GENERATOR-/190726382201?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Tools_Generators_ET&hash=item2c682da279

My 110 needs a new steel fuel tank (rusty). I picked up a galv steel tank guard from Ebay some time ago but still havnt fitted it. The question is - do I need a new cradle thingy to fit under the tank or does the tank guard do the cradles job? Thanks in advance!

the nozzle is just the main squirty part of the whole injector (or nozzle holder to give it its proper name) no point replacing the whole thing - just replace the nozzle - but it does require someone who knows what they're doing and surgically clean place to strip an injector (or nozzle holder) and an injector calibration pump. Otherwise if funds allow and lack of talent prevails then change the whole lot.