ChrisM_110

I sealed my roof/gutter join from the inside of the truck, with some guttering sealant. It doesn't set, so can be squidged into the join easily. Screwfix special if I remember correctly. My roof rack has the drill through feet, so this was my only option, external application was too messy, and looked a bit smingey. Only 17 more leaks to go.

I've used cheap draught excluder [the self-adhesive expanded foam stuff] with good results, as LR did for the panels originally. A fiver for a 10m roll in my local DIY place. Get the 10mm tall stuff, and it squishes down nicely. There's bviously one join which I made to face the back of the seatbox, but doesn't leak. Silicone is fine, but I hate cleaning it off later.

just make some blanking plates from plywood. Makes sure they don't remove them to blast, natch.

I bought some cheap Birtprat hinges, knocked the pins out, ground flanges in for nylon washers, painted, greased and reassembled. New spec hinges, for no extra cash.

+1 for Duralac, a chandler will have some, it's commonly used on ally-skinned boats. 250ml is about £20, but it does go a long way. I've used some on a boat, but not on my truck yet. It kept a GRP-aluminium-steel-stainless-galv mast to bulkhead joint corrosion free for at least three years out in Cardiff Bay.

Brown's gas is a stoichiometric mix of hydrogen and oxygen gas, that kit obviously wouldn't mix the gases that accurately. There was one bloke in an LRO recently [chequebook builder natch], making a Brown's gas generator from 5 jam jars. Mental. It's a low-tech hydrogen generator/injector at best. Real Brown's Gas generators were used on Soviet nuclear subs extensively [mostly for welding/cutting purposes], but have fallen out of favour.

You could try LRFasteners for a complete kit, I know he does Series kits, possibly 90/110/Def too. It's phone or mail order only as he thinks the Internet is the work of communists and weirdos [seriously, don't ask him why he has no website]. Tony Arnold - 32 Laburnum Park, Bradshaw, Bolton, BL2 3BU Telephone: UK 01204 302589 Or try Namrick for BZP or H/T and Seascrew for stainless. You just need to browse Microcat and make a list of bolts needed. All metric bolts in Microcat are listed as such, if the size isn't listed they're either non-metric or special bolts [like the 12.9 rated transfer brake bolts].

A cheap three-way absorption fridge from a caravan breaker may be better for you. Mine was £60, but did need a good clean as it smelt of old werthers original flavoured farts. It sits in the house freezing at 240V for a few hours. Into the truck on 12V while running along to keep cool, via a 12V split charged leisure battery. Gas powered while stationary [makes a nice background heater too]. Heating elements are 120W on mains and 65w on 12V. As it's never on 12V when not running it's not an issue. The burner for gas running is tiny, I'd guess at gas usage as ten-twenty days from a 902 cylinder.

Dreamweaver is pretty much WYSIWYG when used in design view, and the tutorials are excellent, you should try them. My Dad used them to teach himself, and he thinks technology peaked with the Norton Black Shadow and Humber Sceptre. It doesn't produce super clean code, but it's more than enough for almost everything. Combined with a half-decent (or even free like Paint.Net or Picassa) image editor you won't need anything else. If you can use powerpoint and word I'm surprised you don't 'get' Dreamweaver as it's very similar in principal. My recommendation for hosting and domains is 123-reg, excellent prices, reliable hosting and free inline page templates. I use them for my shop, and have had less than five minutes of downtime in five years.

You can also arc-weld from as little as 36V, or three car batteries. Youtube has a few redneck car battery welders, and they seem to work well enough for bush repairs.

Nuff said.

I use P CLips mounted on the roof - side panel bolts for the rear wiring, neat, and no drilling. Ebay special 100 nylon for £3, drilled out the mounting holes to 6mm to match the roof bolts, job done.

Or bootcamp and a WinXP serial number from a scrap machine.

Something loud and waterproof, nuff said /hat /coat

Screwfix Path and Patio cleaner is great on manky bits too. An overnight soak in a bucket, and then a rinse off.

Did you copper/brake grease the backs of the pads and renew the anti-squeal shims/springy things? I re-used mine in a fit of cheapness, and ended up buying a pad fitting kit for a few quid, as all the bats in Usk were following me round.

I think when you fitted it with the spacer it wasn't in position on the lobe. Now you lost half the spacer you need a new spacer, and fiddle it in until it sits right. From the excellent Les 300tdi lift pump change thread: Fit the pump in at the same angle as removing the old one - keep it high so that the foot of the pump goes on top of the cam. It's likely that the pump will not sit flush with the block face, as the cam lobe will be in the way and you will be pressing against the pump spring when you bolt it back on.

I've got one in the centre console, where the square clock goes, for the secondary battery, and one in the main instrument panel. They're easy to wire as they take no current, and can safely be wired through a 1Amp fuse. My main battery voltmeter takes +ve from after all the various regulators from an ignition switched live at the back of the instrument cluster, sharing a fuse with the instruments. The secondary battery voltmeter takes a +ve and -ve direct from the battery. 1Amp fuse and an on/off switch otherwise the battery would eventually drain. PS I got mine from a 2CV racing site, as they were cheap (14.95 ea), and cheerful. The exact opposite of my ex-wife, in fact.

Mine (300Tdi 110 retrofit) are filthy oily, as the PAS works I'm ignoring them until other jobs are done. If a grown-up posts with bad news I guess I'll have another job to do too

Just measure the hole to be sure, but I seem to remember battery cable grommets are 233566.

Here's all the standard non-metallic Land Rover reds: Ferrari Red - LRC-00120012 Royal Claret - LRC-00090009 Poppy Red - LRC-CMKCMK Arrow Red, Portofino Red Corallin Red - LRC-390CUF Masai Red - LRC-378CCC Venetian Red - LRC-440CCL Red SVO (RAL-3000 Flame Red) - LRC-542542 Post Office Red (SVO) - LRC-560560 S.W.E.B Red (SVO) - LRC-562562 Lazer Red - LRC-590590 Monza Red 2ct - LRC-590CCZ Rutland Red 2ctL - RC-607CPQ Red - LRC-TS612612 Damson Red - LRC-ZZZZZZ Blaze Red (SVO) 2ct - LRC-CVACVA Scarlet Red 2ct - LRC-723723 Poppy Red - LRC-10CMK I don't think you're Portofino/arrow, as they are much brighter/redder. I seem to recall that trucks for the Fire Service that went through SVO were usually Flame Red, RAL standard colour 3000, not the same as Post Office Red. As you've had a repaint, and may not be a 'proper' LR red, a paint chip from an unfaded area could be matched by a half-decent paint supplier, even B&Q paint mixing will scan and identify a colour for you, with a RAL code if you pretend you want five litres in matching emulsion mixing

Mine blew it's regulator pack a mile into a journey the other day. Was outputting at least 28Volts (Voltmeter was right over to the right stop). That'll kill the battery in no time. Turned around, popped an email to my local parts peeps, Disco 100Amp alternator arrived next morning. Literally a 10 minute job to change. Now to get spares, and a make a good spare up. You may get away with it for a short journey if you've got a big capacity battery, but it's not worth the risk, considering what else you can kill.

I'm sure that 5 foot length would fit down a trouser leg for easy transport though . Maybe even coiled in a big suitcase. I meant exhaust pipe from the fuel burning heaters, rather than engine, they're single skinned, and ribbed (for your pleasure), but not particularly bendy unfortunately. Even single-skin light ally house air-con hose may do the job, but it's usually a lot bigger than 1 1/2".

Have you thought about the flexi-pipe used by Webasto and Eberspacher on their fuel-powered air heaters? I know Eberspacher are generally 24mmID exhaust, but I'm sure some Webasto's are larger. A caravan supply or a chandlers will have a good selection, as fuel-powered heaters are common on boats, and need much more ducting than in campers/caravans. Or, as 38mm is 1 1/2 inch, have you tried a standard motorbike exhaust pipe? Or this flexi stuff?

Straight out of the factory there is no more capable 4x4 than a Defender. It's the world's best Meccano set too. After 2 hours undoing a few bolts and swapping parts you can have a soft top, pick up, station wagon or truck cab, you can't do that with a J**p. There is also a massive market for off-the-shelf replacement parts and upgrades, and a thriving second-hand market, meaning exceptionally low depreciation. The driving position in a Defender is not perfect, you're a little close to the side window, and legroom isn't great, but you do sit upright which helps. I'm short (5' 7'') and fat (14 stone), but regularly run 150 miles up to North Wales, and have no problems with comfort in a 1989 poverty spec truck. You're mate sounds like a pub expert with an opinion on everything (in a nice way, natch), why not try a Defender for yourself and see what you think. Everyone here will tell you to buy one (or a Disco which can be just as capable, and cheaper too), it's then just a question of size (90, 110, 130) body type and engine Why not have a nosey at a few trucks, and let us know the details, there are plenty out there. Have a day spectating and chatting at somewhere like Scotoffroad. You'll soon see what a real 4x4 can do. My £0.02 Chris.