ChrisM_110

They should, either the bulb holders have dropped out of the back of the guages [they get quite loose], or there's an earth [black] wire not attached. The instrument loom earth should go to the back of the fuel guage, I've got four seperate ones, but most are different. It'll probably have a ring connector one the end.

The screwfix stuff is bitumen based adhesive with an ally top layer, not lead. It does, however work a treat, and sticks like hell if you warm the panel with a heat gun first.

I replaced mine with some bolts as they were very sloppy and the allen grub screws kept rounding off. I think they were M3, but don't quote me on that.

I never got good results with POR 15 products, maybe me, maybe them. I use Screwfix no nonsense galv spray for priming ally and galv, followed by a primer then top coat. It's super cheap, and you can weld straight through it, although it niffs a bit if you do I've had some for 5 years on me steering guard and it hasn't flaked yet.

Mine does it too, but only with a hazard switch with illumination. An old very early One Ten switch with no light in, and the dash indicator flashed. Weird. As long as there's an indication light somewhere the MOT man won't care anyway.

Unbelievably Halfords near me is cheaper than Ebay @ 19:99 for the big tin. My local motor factors has enormous tins at a good price too. The applicator kits are a ripoff everywhere I've looked. I just made my own from a cheap suction feed airgun with a big pot, and some oxygen tubing nicked from work, with a bung in the end [masonry nail] and a spiral of holes at the last inch or two. Not quite as stiff as the official lance type one, and it wibbles about madly if the pressures a bit high, but it cost nothing, result.

I've been looking for a sensibly priced brake for ages to make side lockers, and found these plans for a DIY brake in my travels, the pdf links just down the page a bit. I think the name is an engineers thing. Call it something complicated and you can keep the plebs out

I'd try tightening up the screws that go through the hinge a smidge, as the springs inside tend to slop quite a bit. Or a repair kit of screw, ball, spring, washer and nut is about 85p [The Briptart ones I got were carp mind].

Pre-paint panel wipe [the new fangled compliant stuff] works a treat, after heating and scraping.

I've fitted a salvaged td5 wiper motor to an 89 110, just swapped over the park wedge on the drive gear 180º, and reused my old drive cable and tubes. There's no reason it won't work the other way just as easily, unless LR changed the wiper motor body multi-connector. It's the same motor [well as far as I could tell] on a td5 but is mounted at a different angle. The only drive tube on the td5 that wont fit is the first section, the middle and end are interchangable [at least they were for me].

A lot tidier than my 1989 110, looks well sorted. And ooooh, Colway MT's, damn they make a brilliant noise on the road

Ive done the lining floor and bulkhead etc with Screwfix flashing tape trick, works a treat, recommended for noise and heat removal. I'm also just about to coat the front floor, lower bulkhead and back tub with Protectakote once all the holes in the rear tub are plated up. I tested a small tester pot and it was very impressive; it does need a good etch primer though esp. on Birmabrite. Once it's dry it's like a DIY Rhino Liner. As for carpeting I've glued some 8mm camping mats [closed cell foam] to some horsebox flooring off cuts from Eblag. It's just thick fluted rubber matting [for horses natch], but a metric buttload cheaper than genuine-rubber-designed-for-humans-type-auto matting. As thick as LR Genuine, and 1/10 the price, result

I'm in the process of refurbing a bulkhead [in the dining room] and extensive high level scientific testing [magnet] reveals 100% ally vent flap and a 5mm ferrous hinge pin. Typical LR mix 'n' match. Anyway try Seascrew for some 4-5mm studding and 4/5mm dome bolts in A2 or A4 stainless. I get all my stainless stuff from them. Both your part numbers are correct for Defenders from WAxxxxxx btw.

Also check your steering damper isn't too tight. It's possible to fit it so tight it feels like your PAS pump's failed. Please don't ask how I know

+1 for the battery isolator. I got a pair with battery extension leads for £9 off Fleabay as new take off parts, one for each battery [split charge]. Easy to remove the keys, easy to hide the sockets, cheap for replacement keys, and a pain in the arse to bypass. Cheap and effective security all round. Now all I need to do is remember the keys when I leave the house

Have you tried the usual suspects like Boab? Their site is appalingly badly laid out, but they're very helpful on the phone and do many sizes and shapes. Another option to consider is to get one custom made, or there's Smiths in the Forest of Dean close to you. I've called in to price up a bio-diesel tank and they were very helpful indeed. They have some nice baffled tanks, but I think they're all regular [cuboid] shaped.

Fairy liquid or other soapy compound leaves a lot of residue, and can damage rubber [although I've never seen this]. Glass cleaner is very good [i use Mr Muscle] when fitting though, and safe for the rubber.

Autosparks do one with terminals that just about fits as a replacement for the glass fuse holder. I replaced my glass fuse one for a blade one, easy job.

I've used screwfix self adhesive flashing tape [#72438 aluminium foil with bitumen backing] against all the big flat panels [roof, van sides, footwells inside and out, and floor panels. Panels warmed with a heat gun, and tape slapped on, it even takes paint well with a decent primer. Over that went some 8mm high density camping mats [Asda 3.47 ea.] trim glued on. Sound quality is much better, and I'm now a bit more insulated too.

I've found these blokes very good, they often have offcuts and weird shaped pieces going cheap too.

I've made some panels for the cab sides so the stereo speakers sit below the seatbelt mounts. You'll need shallow speakers though or they'll foul the seatbelt. You do get a nice earful though.

Also check your flasher relay. My hazards/indicators went totally insane earlier this year after some wading. Indicators would only work after hazards were used. Hazard switch replacement did nothing. Re-earthing lights/dash did nothing. Cause: Flasher relay [one of the big towing relays] full of mud and water.

Mr Neutron - You can also swap thermostats. I swap between a 78º[ERR3291W I think] and an 88º for summer/winter use. I just swap over at pre-winter service time. Came from Beamends or possibly Tamar4x4. Works fine with a Kenlowe too.

It'll be a bad earth for the light holder to body connection. One of the screws through the light holder passes thru' the earth tag and into the body. Clean the copper tag, and use a conductive screw. A stainless steel screw won't give you an earth.

Mine did the same thing, the blue cancelling ring was fitted at 90º to normal. The two gaps in the ring should be vertical, and the corresponding lugs [on the back of the wheel hub] fit into them. The gap, or arrow, in the ring on the steering wheel should point to the indicator switch. Sorry for a boring first post