zim

so that'll be the axle on the bench then huh we've stripped a few salisburys that haven't needed the spreader just come straight out G

I run a big ally rad in the back a set of fans from a peugeot 306 td with cowling 38mm pipe 72 (or is it 74??) degree thermostat, with a couple little holes drilled in it standard pre serp water pump. I have to use a radiator fan switch, or it overcools. 4.2 v8, challenge truck. with hydraulic pump run off the crank - so the engine is doing it's fair share G

Pro tools 105 HD. G

Cheers

Oh matt - are helmets required by codrivers ? Just wondering which intercoms to bring

Sorry Nige, but i don't agree with this. The flow rate of the oil compared to water is nothing. I run a thermostat with my oil cooler. G

Gavin is my dad Matt i'm offshore at the moment, so will get you our license numbers when i'm back. G

P38 v8 ?

I'll do one tonight. G

Where are you guys getting those discs from ? Cheers G

For using in car electrics (looms etc). Without glue is fine for financial reasons G

Hello, I need to restock my heatshrink box. So wondering where the cheapest place to get it is ? I typed "heatshrink" into ebay and got c. 3000 items LOL. I've used polevolt before but was wondering if anybody could recommend a cheaper place ? Cheers Gordon Edit : something along these lines - http://shop.ebay.co.uk/u-supplies/m.html?_nkw=heatshrink+&_sacat=0&_odkw=heatshrink+black&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3911.c0.m270.l1313

Nige, My 4.2 has a massive aluminium radiator, located behind the cab. Got a pair of fans from either a mondeo td or 306 td (can't remember which one) - with a good couling. I'm running a stock V belt water pump (slightly bigger pulley on the pump, (this made routing my belt easier ), 74 deg stat with 3 x 6mm holes in it. No heater matrix - pipes just looped. My first fan comes on at 84ish deg and the second 91ish (i think the same sender as the x-eng ?). This switch is located in the thermostat housing (unscrew the sender that an air con model comes with). And this is more than enough, the lower temp fan coming on and off. I am yet to have the second fan switch on. Bearing in mind, my truck is always driven in low box and a lot of the time running the hydraulic pump. At the last challenge i had my gearbox oil at over 130 but the engine stayed perfect. Your radiator is located in front, so for road driving surely it'll be excellant ? My 4.6 p38 runs just fine with a standard range rover radiator setup and i drive / tow a heavy load a lot of the time. In answer to your question about EWP's. What you need to do, is get your current pump - remove the impella and make sure the housing is water tight. The pump is then fitted in the bottom hose of the radiator and it pumps away when you give it power. You have to take out the impella due to the difference in flow rates etc. I know boothy runs one, but mine as above is perfect and James' (my winch man) 3.9 with a standard v8 rad in the rear with similar fans and stock pump is also good G

If they're not 3/8 then they'll be M10 x 1

Aren't the silverstones difficult to get hold of anyway ?

Evening, My p38 needs a new set of boots. I'm currently on Goodyear Eagle F1's, which were really nice when new ! Just wondering what people suggest going for ? I mainly do motorway mileage. Current size is 255/55R18. Budget about £150 a tyre, which you can get Eagle F1's for. The other option i've looked at is goodyear wrangler f1's, but i'm not sure what they're like ? I'll fit them myself. Gordon

Who's going ? Who's ready ? We're basically ready, just a few tiny things to sort when i get home. G

Decided to go Hydraulic later this year and been reading about as not had much experience using hydraulic. Im at a cross roads with winches. I spend a bunch of money and buy twin housing etc or go Hydraulic. So decided its hydraulic. so got some questions some silly but need to ask Winch - Saley Good choice Be great if some users of Hydraulic winches (saley) respond please if possible I run milemarkers, but same theory I don`t mind spending the right money to have a reliable , working setup. Whats the best pump to use I run either a 31 or 33cc pump Belt or chain driven? ( wont go PTO) (300tdi defender) I'm on crank driven (in front of the engine, rear mounted rad. Using dog clutch thats actuated by an air ram What size tank do I need and where is the best location? Mine is about 18 litres Will it need a cooler Not sure, i don't run one...But then again, i don't have a temperature gauge in my current setup Do i need to bleed the system No. It pumps in one port and out the other. Once you've pulled a lever for long enough for the winch to basically move the pipes will be full of oil. How often do you replace the oil service the winch Erm....difficult one, how often do you service a challenge truck engine ? Presume tank is water proof etc Without trying to be cheeky here, if there's a hole in it - it's not waterproof It'll have a filler cap of sorts which will be your easiest place to put a breather. Route this out of wading waters way How many connection go to the tank , pump and motor. Suction and return. Both should be at the lowest point. If your return is at the top, the oil will aerate etc (spelling ?) is there a preferred pipe type to purchase makes etc 1/2" will be fine for your lines. My suction line to the pump is 3/4. But find something flexible ! At work we use parker and it's really nice. Our local place here use megaflex which is also nice to work with. Another local tractor place use pipe which you need a gorilla to bend ! What control options are about in the form of remotes etc You need a spool bank for the levers. Some of these can have solenoids added to them so you an either operate by manually pulling the lever or pressing a 12v button. Dont only have 12v in my opinion, having a lever means you can feather the winch in/out slowly. When you order your spool bank, make sure you explain what you want it to do. I've had them in the past where it vented the winch back to the tank when you let go of the lever Do people leave there chain in place all the time as seems most have a dog clutch Clutch What about over rev on the pump can this be controlled. Your right foot ! If you're going chain, then you could fanny about with pulley ratios etc. What sort of range does it work from, IE engine running at 1000rpm will the engine revs need to be increased to 2000 rpm for the winch to preform etc. or will pulling power increase as it goes through a rev range. Higher rev = higher flow = more motor speed Has anyone got a good setup they have pics etc, pipe lengths , tank sizes.To be honest, if i were you and had no pipes. I'd mount everything where it's going (tank, pump, winches, filter etc) and then get the pipes made. They're not cheap, so measure twice make once ! Also, when making hydraulic pipes avoid putting a swaged elbow on each end unless you're confident - they don't bend and it can make life hard. Stick to an elbow on one end, straight on the other, then use a swivel elbow that screws into whatever you're connecting My setup is all bsp thread, which i think is probably the most common here in the UK ??? Maybe someone else can comment on that. But the other thread style used a fair bit is JIC (i.e. -AN). Choose one and stick to it, don't start mixing n matching cos you'll end up shooting yourself in the foot ! anything to watch out for , misuse , damage that can be occurred if not warned etc. If reversing rotation of the pump, remember to flip the high pressure seals around. You should put a filter of sorts. You'll need an overcentre valve for each winch. This is your brake. Trust me, it's not nice when hanging on the end of the rope, you push the lever to spool out and the winch drops you down a long way because your OCV is wrong ! Keep your plumbing simple. Get a pair of air rams on each winch, then at the flick of a switch you can choose between High - Free - Low range. Very handy think thats about it for now. thanks alot for responses as said not had experience in hydraulic before on my own offroader. ps 8274 with giggle pin bits for sale soon :-) Hope that helps

Matt - i will be entering rounds 1 + 2. I'm at work for all the others, sorry. G

Steve, you got a spare sensor to swap it out with ? G

Regardless of which RV8 you got, you need a new air temp sender for MS and a new lambda sensor as the rover one isn't used. To fit the lambda is literally just a hole in the exhaust and a bung welded in for a couple of quid. G

My daily driver (p38 v8 4.6) and challenge truck (4.2 v8) are both auto and i wouldn't go back to manual Left foot on the brake, right foot on the accelerator gives you more control and less to think about whilst offroading. G

Yes i'm using the peltor intercom and peltor cable from the radio to the helmet (sorry can't remember the peltor ref number). The adaptor cable doesn't look all that special (motorola plug on the end, a PTT plug, and a 4 port nexus plug - TJ101). I'm going to buy the bits seperately and get the soldering iron out next time, as it wasn't cheap !!! To get the VOX, you have to basically have the PTT activated prior to switching on the radio. If it's not then you have a normal PTT button. I'm not sure if peltor helmets use antinoise ? Edit : looking at that link, antinoise headsets talk about having extra microphones etc... Edit 2 : From peltor "With built-in hearing protection and a quick adjusting, noise compensating microphone for improved communication and comfort. " G