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So what length strop would we need to go round these as a winching point

When / if you order some, make sure they're steel... I've lost count of how many plastic ones we've broken G P.S. where's your name from ?

The battery light is a sign that your alternator is not charging, nothing to do with the condition of your battery. G

I haven't noticed any cars in this thread

Only the rear diff on a 4.6 is 4 pin. G

There will be a jam nut (locking nut) on it tight up against the steering bar, turn this either way till you see it backing off - this'll show you if its a right hand thread or a left hand thread. G

Jap import ??? If it's a disco, i'll put my money on them being the 42mm version. G

My 4.2 v8 challenge truck and my co drivers 3.9 v8 both have rear mounted rads running just normal water pumps. Both cool extremely well. We run twin peugeot 306 (i think, or was it mondeo ???) fans with a temperature switch in the thermostat housing (where the air con temp switch normally goes). G

A rear is a lot more useful than a centre. You can always rig up your front or rear to act as a centre if required. G

Cheers for the replies... I'll have a look for the going out lights. I popped out before with my clamp. (and yes, it's not gonna measure mA i realise that) and i didn't fancy having to reset the radio so didn't use an inline ameter.... But found that i had about a 0.5 - 0.6 amp draw which stopped after a short while here at the rig, but didn't stop at our car park. With all the electrics on i managed to get the car drawing 96A (2 x seats, 2 x heated windows, fans, compressor and lights). The alt was putting out 93A which isn't too bad. Idling with nothing on, it was drawing about 20A. The alt seems to output about 10A more than what the car was drawing Regards Gordon

I'll have to do that later today.... I was in a rush yesterday so didn't have the clamp whilst in the said car park. Any ideas what the draw should be with all the ecu's sleeping vs when they're being woken up ? G

Evening, Both my boss and I have p38's, which we both leave parked up for 3 weeks at a time (for the last 3 years)....and both always start perfectly fine when we come back to them. But last Thursday, i parked up at Gt Yarmouth port in our own designated car park....came to it early Monday morning to find a flat battery. Jumped a spare on it, to get me up n running. (Went for an 80mile drive, so i'm confident it had a decent charge by the time i got back) Then my boss mentioned the following day that his had battled to start.... so we tried his last night to find that also flat. Checked mine today (Friday) and it's flat My battery is about 3 months old. Put a voltmeter on mine when i'd just got it started tonight using another battery, and it was at 13.8v (a little low i guess, but this was still charging up my flat bat), his was charging at 14.5 (but he did go out for a drive on Weds night, compared to me on Monday)... Checked my alt about 10mins later and it was putting out 56A. So from this i'm confident there is nothing wrong with either charging system. ..... answers on a postcard please ? I'm sure i've read somewhere on the internet about P38's sometimes getting interferance to the alarm receiver ? Does this ring any bells to anybody ? Tonight it's parked up alongside the rig about 400yds from the car park, so i'll check tomorrow if she fires up ok ??? Cheers Gordon

If you don't go through saley (which to be honest is probably your easiest option ) make sure you don't get spool that vent to centre when in the centre position. Flowfit have all that you want G

It is pretty simple to swap just the viscous unit And if you strip Bowie's TF box in the garage you'll know what to do when you get under your truck. G

I've got a flange mounted on my crank pulley, that i've got as straight as possible using a dti... using a key way in that, my clutch shaft goes into it. This is all solid mounted. I wanted to use a coupling / prop shaft, but due to space restrictions i haven't so when my clutch freaks out / bearings give up i'll have to replace / fix as required. My truck unfortunately has a wheel base of 88" and i run an auto...so there is a limit on how far back i can move the engine. Currently about 6 or 7 inches. I run a t-max twin cylinder pump (i found the arb one to be too slow pumping up camping beds!), that fills an air tank from a lorry brake system. This runs through a little regulator and into a manifold behind the dash where i take pipes to all my switches (2 x winche gears, 2 x arbs, clutch, air line source for the beds ) G

You're from Aberdeen ? Go to a boat shop, they'll have rubber hosing that you can use for low pressure. G

The bracket you use to mount your pump depends on how good your fabrication skills are and what steel you've got knocking around mine has two legs which go back to the engine mount brakcets. Clutch - something like this, depending on your pump - http://www.flowfitonline.com/cgi-bin/sh000002.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww.flowfitonline.com%2f&WD=clutch&SHOP=%20&PN=Mechanical_Clutches.html%23a25_20_2d_2030103#a25_20_2d_2030103 Remember when changing direction of the pump you have to swap the high pressure seal around inside. Gordon

We'll be there as well (can do 5 out of 8 this year). Will sort an entry form later. G

I've got a v8 manual box. Lt77 Got it originally for mine, but went auto instead. Near manchester airport. Gordon

My clutch

Nice job , but it looks like you've got no clutch in there ? I engage and disengage mine as required. I don't see the point in running the pump for half the day whilst it's not needed (apart from warming up fluid) and only causing wear n tear. Likewise if you have a hose burst or something it's easy to isolate. Regards Gordon

That amount of draw is fine, as said you've got devices which draw a tiny amount of power anyway. Gordon

Peugeot 106 rallye Small, handle like a go kart and fast ! Even faster with a 1.6 16v in it out of a GTi. Or saxo vts...similar to above but comes with free "Chav Badge" G

Evening, From the other thread : On page 164ish, they start talking about them - http://www.msauk.org/uploadedfiles/msa_forms/bluebooks/11/152-190%20Competitor%20Safety.pdf Could someone please explain to me the ins and outs about helmets. - Do they have an age limit ? - Are some types being removed at the end of the year sort of thing ? Just wondering, as i need to buy 2 and don't want to get something that'll only last a season or two. Sorry if i keep on asking, i just don't wish to make a mistake (financially!). We use radio intercom so that pushes the price up. Regards Gordon