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Correct. Just a roll pin in there. If you were to get a photo of the oil pump housing, you might be able to confirm which one it is.... Also - are the water pumps not different between early and late models, i'm sure they are ? G Edit : Yes - from RPI : * Pre 1976 Non EFI vehicles (1) * Post 1976 vehicles (2) * Post 1982 EFI vehicles () - out of stock Type 1 (GWP 310) small footprint, alloy top hat type mechanical fan connection boss. These early type pumps can normally be found on the Rover P5, P6 & original MGB V8s, early Morgan Plus 8s, and perhaps some TVRs, all Pre - 1976 models. However, you may also find this type of pump on many kit and custom cars, due the shorter nose length allowing ease of fitting to V8s with front end clearance issues. Type 2 (QCP 2095) small footprint with output shaft for slide on type viscous coupling and fan. These later type water pumps can normally be found on the earlier Rover SD1s (non EFI), Morgan Plus 8s, Triumph TR8s, TVR V8s, and many more kit and custom cars from 1976. It is also worth mentioning that some companies such as Morgan used this pump with the nose cut shorter to avoid the front cross member. Type 3 (GWP 2149) small footprint, thread on type viscous coupling and fan..........Please note Not currently available.......... These Water pumps are mostly used on EFi (fuel injection) type engines (1982 onwards) normally found on the later Rover SD1s (EFi) type, Morgan Plus 8s, Triumph TR8, TVR, and many kit and custom cars from 1982. - Out of stock - This information however is only a guidance as there are some exceptions to the rule and many V8s that are no longer standard, therefore we have posted enough pictures of each type so that you can be sure yourself. 1 2 3 P.S. if you do swap them and the old broken one is going spare, could i have it

Nope... My heated windscreen is slowly freaking out....need a replacement for next winter i think. G

Disregarding the rear stays etc, would this hoop pass ? Example :

This isn't much help, but my p38's have been perfect in this weather....what's the difference ?

They all go to the same place, so all have vacum. This is what it looks like inside : HTH G

Just a quick question regarding the rules for challenging. (Most organisations seem to have very similar rules, but essentially for XLC (feels strange not saying HW )). The B-pillar hoop - does it have to be exactly vertical ? Or can it 'lean' ? Below is a drawing as an example, showing a normal upright hoop on the left compared to what i'm asking about on the right (maybe a touch exaggerated, but you get the idea) : I do realise for next year the rear stays must go to the chassis. Cheers Gordon

thanks, but i was meaning a picture of a single lever with 2 pistons. not entirely correct. you just put them inline with your rear brakes, that way you can still use the foot brake for both...or you choose which fiddle brake to apply. however...normal rear calipers aren't good enough and you need bigger (i.e. defender fronts). mine are to the left of my seat. G

cool..don't suppose you've got a picture handy do you ? we thought of doing it with an oval hole in the lever giving it space to move in the 'other' direction. G

Get the halfords set. Then buy a britool 1/2 ratchet + socket set for about £30. G

I bent my halfrauds 3/4 breaker bar yesterday...oops But got lots of their tools

This is how we've had a car on hydraulics before (well not connected to others, just by themselves). Hydraulic ram on each corner, then a hose to it's own ram in the rack. T piece off this hose to the hydraulic pump source. Pic from google of the spring rack :

Gents, I've already got a set of cnc fiddle brakes (the ones milner do). But would like to make my own system using basic master cylinders. I'd like to do 2 cylinder with one lever. As in : What i'm a little confused about is..... say you're pulling the lever back, so the top cylinder is compressing. Doesn't that mean you're wanting to pull the bottom one out of it's bore ? and vice versa if you're pushing the lever. Or am i being thick here and missing something ? Or have they got fancy goodies G

Return to seller ! I'd disconnect the lines where possible (fuel filter, fuel rail, return to tank etc) and let them defrost in a warm garage. G

Looking at the BJ website, the tri axle has a 40kg less capacity than the twin. The bateson tri is rated the same as the BJ. Fair enough about the reversing fact.

Evening, I'm on the lookout for a new trailer as my new build will not fit on my current BJ. My one at the moment is a BJ AD 16ft, twin axle... Which tows excellantly and has a really low bed I'm wanting one of the 3.5 tonne versions now, with the bed above the wheels. So yes, the bed is a bit higher but the trailer has a higher weight rating as well. My question is this - do the tri axle trailers tow better ? Speaking to the guy at bateson, he says they're more stable but woudn't advise them for offroad, due to how they lift wheels and then weight being transferred to the 'other' axles. I will not be driving across farmers' field carrying livestock food. Just for transporting vehicles down tarmac roads Cheers Gordon vs Images from google.

I thought they were different :blink: will have a look tomorrow. Cheers

£96 for a set of spacers for 2 calipers....ouch....i think i'll spend the same on a complete axle instead

Nathan - have you got a link to the design of that heater, i fancy making one Cheers Gordon

Evening, We've been chatting at work about how far in a stud must go into something before it makes no difference ? So was just wondering if there was a general rule of thumb to work it out ? i.e. an normal M10 bolt will be no better off going into a 20mm nut compared to a 50mm nut etc, but what is the minimum depth it should go in ? i'm assuming it's related to bolt diameter and pitch ? Cheers Gordon

Sorry, didn't have my brain in gear when i asked. It makes sense that it won't work, or your brakes would keep themselves on... Doh. Cheers G

I was half tempted to just try a cheapy switch from hong kong ebay ? hmmmm...or am i being a pikey

Ok....this isn't for a landrover. I'm a bit short of space so was wondering if my idea of a new brake pedal setup would work. See attached photo :

Righty o, I got off my lazy butt and stripped my p38 seats last week to sort the heater elements. So now they're both back working fine but not amazingly hot I functioned them by bypassing the thermal switch and they got nice n warm, so was wondering if people have changed out this switch for a higher temperature version - if so what temp ? RR.net say that the normal switch operates between 33 and 25 deg C. i've not personally tested it. And he upgraded to a 45 C switch. http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/seats/seatheat4.html Cheers Gordon

Can't you put some form of antifreeze in it ? glycol or something ? G

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