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At work we use a dye chemical called flurodye (spelling ???), which is red in colour - we use it for colouring mud. I've got it on my rubber wellies before and not been able to get it off (binned my last boots a year after getting it on them) despite getting them constantly wet, muddy, oily, greasy etc.... Would this be ok on rope ? G

Dan, you got a pic of how bad your truck is now ? Hope you're well. G

I've pm'd this bloke on pirate http://www.trailworthyfab.com/ G

I have the single sensor version in the middle. Also has the ability to attach a trailer to it when i want Sorry... i'll get my coat now

Agree with the above, the older defenders + 110's had bigger pistons (46mm) where as the disco will have 41mm pistons. The twin brake lines are to do with the cross braking system. G

Cheers... but they're not beadlocked. Funnily enough, i've actually just spent some money with that bloke as well hence the need for new rims G

Evening, Just wondering if anyone knew of a source of H1 hummer rims in the UK ? I know they're easy enough from the states, but local would be easier I'm after a set of 16.5" H1 beadlock, split rim with 12 bolts. Cheers Gordon

Have the breather come out the top of your auxillary tank, then go down to your current breather. Fuel won't flow upwards and a roll-over valve will definately make sure of that. G

I don't have a switch with me at the moment, but looking at http://www.devon4x4.com/index2.php?option=com_docman&task=doc_view&gid=1&Itemid=99999999 Pins 7 + 8 are earth. This'll be for the lighting. Possibly try and see if one is the earth for the green light and the other for the orange ??? Like i said, i don't know if this is the case as i can't test one atm. Why don't you use air toggle valves instead of solenoids ? More reliable than 12v solenoids in my opinion. Then just wire in a bulb to show you locked. Regards Gordon

Use your sensor on your diff to earth the orange LED and it should be ok. G Edit : looking at that above picture, i'm sure the arb carling switches have less terminals ?

See attached pic from rave :

Take the rear prop off, then the handbrake drum. Take out the shoes, and both the adjuster and lever mechanism. They'll be seized. Strip them down and clean them, paying carefull attention to which way the little rollers fit in Put it back together and it'll work G

LOL @ ^ would these be a bit more of an appropriate size ?

this is from a stereo competition car i built this was used for charging 12 x 8v batteries. when i changed my system to 24 x 8v batteries, i stopped using the alternators and used a 240v mains charger, charged at 21v float at 18.5, but could be dropped to 18v (which is the upper limit allowed) by using a lightbuld. with this system i could draw up to 3,000A for a few seconds. Battery voltage dropping from 18.0 to about 12 - 13. G

I've run single V belts on 200a alternators (20v). 2 of these alts on a little 1.6 engine as well as a 60a 12v G

Thrust bearing ? Springs on the clutch come loose ?

Ok This is a reply email from paul "Difference between 180/200 cams is power delivery. Both are suitable for either 4.0 or 4.6 but the H200 has the emphasis on more midrange so is more of a Sports Road Cam. The H180 is the more suited to motorway cruising, towing and pulls better low down so good for towing and off-road." So would i be better off with the 180 or 200 ? G

Get a voltmeter with a remote switching wire. i.e. when ignition on it's on. My brax is like this. G

Cheers for the reply. When the rhodes bleed down, do they make a noise ? G

Cheers for the reply. Did you ever run it a) on the standard ecu ? and b) with the original cam, so you can compare between before and after ? I was just going to get a standard set of lifters to be honest, they should be ok shouldn't they ? G

Well, yesterday morning on my way to work my 4.6 crossed the 150,000 mile mark I did the headgaskets about 5,000 miles ago due to it breaking between cylinder 6 and atmosphere. No water / oil mixing. It's been running fine since then Smile I did not get the block pressure tested for slipped liners etc, but i've not had any problems of loosing water or overheating Smile However lately it's started to make a noise on startup for a short while. So i'm assuming the tappets need changing. Thus also needs a new cam as well. What would you suggest ? I'm happy with the power it's got at the moment, but if i could have more or the same with better fuel or something i'll do that. This is my daily driver (1995 Gems 4.6) with a single point gas system. In m other v8 i've got a crower 50229 from paul @ v8tuner and am happy with that, but that's a toy truck I've emailed him about my p38 and he's recommended the Kent H180/200. http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=377 Thanks Gordon

I'm all over the country in my p38 leaving it for weeks on end parked up when i'm at work and all i carry is a swiss army knife, 1/2" socket set, + - screwdriver, jack, jump leads and a bottle of water. If i break down and i can't bodge it, then mr AA brings me home ! G

I agree about it priming the pump, but i've got another pressure sender on that side of the filter which switches the accusump solenoid on - this is what i don't want it to affect Gordon

Hi Matt, I'll be home for this one. So can you email me the details. Cheers Gordon

Stick a voltmeter onto your battery and see what the actual voltage is. Has the voltmeter got a decent earth ? Where are you getting the feed for your voltmeter ? From the low voltages you're describing, i'd say a feed from in the dash somewhere - radio, cig lighter ??? Thus, try running a decent wire from a decent source (battery, starter motor, alternator, positive post on the bulkhead etc) VDO are a good make so the results should be pretty accurate. G