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Give protection and performance a ring

Are you meaning the 2 bolts that would hold on the bracket for a disco steering dampener (i.e. under the prop flange) they're 3/8 unc. this picture shows the part i'm on about : The qt guard then bolts onto the diff bolts at the top, with a short M8 holding the flap part to the actual guard. HTH Gordon

So this would work with trying to get out a broken manifold stud in a v8 head....hmmmm

Nick, this style of valve is easier to mount i've found :

Where've you guys got your arnott springs from ? and what do you think of them onroad... Not bothered about offroad, mine is a tart bus

I run my diffs from them as well, to avoid the possible problems of blown fuses etc.

I don't run 8274's, but this looks like a nice bit of kit With regards to the "manual control switch" do you off a lever valve (as opposed to a push button). I find these are a lot easier to see if the winches are in freespool or not. Gordon

At work we use lifting wire slings which are about 12mm in diameter that are rated for 3 tonnes - look at any winch rated about 12,000lb and they have this size cable a 5 tonne sling to me is a hell of a lot thicker than what they put on strong winches. The strap in your original post will be fine G

We often travelled to and from RSA with weapons and it's not easy.... nevermind the rest of africa LOL G

We wear glasses at work all day and have some antifog & cleaning solution. It works pretty well, but once you start sweating there's not a lot that you can do Swarfega with warm water to clean glasses also works pretty well G

I've been stuck at the bottom of a hill with a goosed engine, had to wait for someone to pull me out as my hydraulic pump was useless I run type r's front n back with air solenoids to engage high / low and it makes life really easy when you're in the cab. Got a little 9,500 in the centre as well. Hydraulic is a lot more complex and more pipes all over the place compared to 12v. G

Todd, i made a mistake in my post... i meant i had a 109 master (not 110) and the brakes were horrible. Sorry.

When i first got my truck done, i was running discs front n back with a series servo and a 110 master. But to be honest the brakes were horrible I swapped out the pedal box, servo and master for a defender td5's and now they're awesome Gordon

Ok... lets start at the beginning then Does the truck drive fine in high range ? Can you use all the gears - 1,2,3,D,N,R,P ? If the above is yes then put the gearstick into neutral high. Push it across to the left into neutral low. Can you hear something (the noise will come from the transfer box) ? A bit like a "clunk" as the actuator engages low. Does the LCD display on the dash say "low" ? This is the "thing" that's rotating to engage high / low : Depending on how good you are with a multimeter, you can remove this and test it on a battery. It's dead easy to get to and remove. Giving it 12v to see if it rotates. In my case, this was working fine, but the ecu wasn't. With regards to a haynes manual - download rave http://green-oval.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_docman&task=cat_view&gid=13&Itemid=29 But having said all of the above, i'd check to see if it's going far enough across, as you said you had to readjust the gearbox cable. HTH Gordon

on the back of a p38's transfer box, is an electrical solenoid which rotates to engage high / low. mine had the problem of not engaging low, so i took this solenoid off and tested it by giving it 12v then -12v (i.e. backwards) and it did as it was supposed to. i searched the net a bit, and found that the ecu have a habit of freaking out. so i bought one on ebay for about £30, swapped it out and it's worked fine ever since ! it's one of the many under the passenger seat hth Gordon Edit : sorry, do you mean the actual gearstick won't move across and down ? if so, then it's time to strip it and have a look whats fouling.

It's near rochdale (manchester). G

there are extra ports on a normal v8 oil pump housing which you can use for adding an oil pressure gauge most of the threads are unf. i know the pressure relief valve plug is 3/4 unef. G

Agree with simon, air is in the system. Open the bleed screw ontop of the steering box and let the air out as you turn the wheel Gordon

Thanks for the heads up I can't download this for the next week, but is it used instead of microcat or with it ? Cheers G

I'm still on the look out if anyone is going this way Cheers Gordon

At work there are always arguements as some seals go in 'wet' and others 'dry', then in other cases a certain type of seal will fit in anothers housing but not vice versa. G

David @ LLama all of mine, and i've got banjo's on as well Why do you wish to clamp your hose ? If it's to save rebleeding them, then it's only an extra five minutes to bleed. If it's to be able to close a line but carry on using the other brakes, then just carry a blank G

Morning, As per title really... Has anyone put some of the new RR sport brembos onto a p38 ? They're pretty big discs - 354 / 360mm so i realise that big wheels will be needed. Will the calipers bolt on, or is a bracket needed ? Will the disc bolt straight on ? I've searched google and rangerovers.net but no answers Cheers Gordon

180 empty.... hell, they don't feel that when you lift them ? i'm on the look out for a cougar 5 bottle (half size or full size). G

I prefer a big pair of water pump pliers (i.e. 15" items) as i find these grip better than vice grips. Or, weld a nut on it then undo with a spanner. The heat will help. Just don't go crazy or you'll bugger your seals up. G