zim

it sounds like you have slack in the brake cables....i.e. the trailer pushes into the tow truck taking up the slack, then it starts to break.... adjust the drums / cables, and your problem should hopefully be sorted. Gordon

i've got a Progress #2 which is about 6ft tall and it's very good ok, it's probably 30 years old but it's better than what you can get nowadays. G

fair enough. i was assuming you were trying to use lots of cheapo batteries instead of a couple good ones. now to through a spanner in the works, why do you want a split charge system ? if all your batteries are of the same age, type and condition they can be left connected together. i've run many multiple battery setups like this (20+ batteries), and see many many more - but always one type of battery is used per install whether they be optima, nsb, hawker etc. if you still wish to isolate them, just get another x charge system. G

i just took in a few previous trade account invoices and that was fine. G

you can fit as many relays as you wish to split them up however you wish. But rather than get that many bats, why not just get two decent ones ? G

do you know if this fits the new style mountney ? sorry i'm a little confused G

If you're touching bumpstops whilst driving down a normal road your truck has issues G

erm...now i'm no expert, but we've been told otherwise lol All of our crane pennants have this style hook on.... The headerball / main block are conventional, with these hanging below. G

Ditto

I may have to raid stores at work for some more hooks, i like the idea of double hooks Just out of interest, do any of you use the hook like the picture below, where you have to press the little tab on the back so you can open the hook : We use this style of hook from 1/2 t up to 15t.

I have no idea about the sensitive steering assistance that you mention, but you're only using the mechanial steering box from the D2 nothing else. The use of 106 / saxo power steering pumps have been discussed before, do a search. I'll stick to my belt driven pump the box was too low if we used the top 2 bolts as this was our initial idea. before i forget, my chassis isn't a defender, i think it's 1" "shorter" than what you would have. i found this out when fitting my gigglepin rear arm brackets i haven't supported the panhard rod mount i've not yet worked this part out....might weld some sort of reinforcement bracket onto the chassis. Hope this helps Gord

ouch but the important thing is you guys are ok G

Just booked our flights to go out to zimbabwe for a week I was brought up there, but been over here for the last 6 / 7 years. We will be spending most of our time up near victoria falls : Should do some good travelling around the bush It'll be my girlfriends first time in Africa Gord

good use of google earth G

if's a rear flat, just remove the shafts and prop then Edit : but then you'll have 2 holes either side of the axel........ so would need some blank flanges as such. G

woah ! that's probably the last thing i would have guessed :) back home we did a fair bit of black powder shooting which is along the same lines, but we bought the weapons G

I went to a scrappy and found a set of D2 piping, cut them shorter then had hydraulic hose fittings put on the end.... I've then had more hydraulic hosing made to go to my zf74. I got the lower section of a D2 steering column, and split it in the crumple zone plates (not sure on their proper name - basically 2 3" x 2" plates which clamp together). I then did the same to a 90 column.... I then reassembled using the D2 bottom part. With location, i'll have to find a picture for you. But i added about 1 1/2" on top of my chassis leg so the top bolts would have somewhere to mount. Drag link.... this is the part i'm not soo sure on yet, but am not worried, as i'll be fitting hydro assist so making my own balljoint. I've currently just got a normal balljoint through it, so i can move it round the yard, but my drag link is fractionally too long. The banana shaped drop arm is a pain in the butt !!!! Oh... with the D2 box and the zf74, it is amazing light :D I know i've only got 33" tyres, but it is dead easy to turn them from side to side whilst stationary. G

you will not be able to get hydraulic piping in the sizing that you want, it will be a lot thinner.... look for something like blue / red band.... or cds. What's it for ? 3/4" is damn thick if the id is only 2". Gordon

I've been watching this post for a little while now.... Do any of you guys have pictures of just the rims, so i can see inside ? Thanks Gordon

From page 22 on their catalogue see the attached picture.... Their catalogue can be downloaded here : http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/Catalogue_Request.html G

Steve, I used to run a normal mocal sandwich plate, but managed to smash this up with my diff. I then got a plate which goes where the old filter take off point is - bottom item on this page if i remember correctly - http://www.thinkauto.com/cgi-bin/sh000001....tml%23aPC1#aPC1 You fit your pressure relief valve into this as well, making sure the bore is nice n smooth.... Then as per a normal take off you have an input and a return, which you take to your filter somewhere in your engine bay. This takes up the least amount of space out of all the systems. I'll be going to the workshop in a bit, so will see if i can get a picture of it... Gord Edit, i've just reread your post...and it's actually about coolers....doh.... i don't run one on mine, but i'd find a way of a thermo switch...i'd put money on the guys from thinkauto having something to sort you out, very helpful, and as far as i know they manufacture the mocal stuff.

sorry, it won't fit. the box is longer in the disco. Gordon

there are posts about dog clutches etc, on a thread of mine regarding hydraulic winches. Gordon

24spline shafts won't fit through 10 spline'd stub axels so these'll need changing as well. Gord

at work we have 3 options : 1 - cotton gloves with millions of rubber dots on them, these are my favourite gloves as you can actually feel what you're doing with your fingers. the downside being the minute you touch mud / water / oil, your hands are soaked. still, i wear them, just use a good dose of swarfega at the end of each shift. i'm tempted to try latex gloves under them..... 2 - plastic gloves, a bit clumersome, but great for working when you don't need to be accurate... i.e. big spanners, chain tongs, stilsons and they're spot on 3 - leather gloves, these are pretty good, but the ones we get have a tight cuff, which annoys me when trying to put them on / take them off quickly... we've had some trial runs of thing rubbery / plasticcy gloves but most of them can't take too long when dealing with greasy jobs. if you want warm gloves, i use impact gloves or scaffolders leather gloves G