bill van snorkle Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Ok Grem, I have given this a bit of thought this morning and recall more clearly what I mocked up some years ago. The way I remember it is that there is just enough room for the caliper and socket head mounting bolts to sit snug against the swivel housing, but insufficient space to actually physically fit and do up the bolts, unless you grind a lot of metal off the swivel housing. The problem is that we are trying to attach the caliper to the fabricated bracket directly in only one stage. One solution is to make the caliper mounting bracket from 2 separate bolt together pieces. Example, with your wooden mock up bracket, which I will call the ''primary'' bracket,spread the ''ears'' further apart and extend them outwards slightly so that the bolt holes are easily accessible without grinding metal off the swivel housing. Then you make a ''secondary'' ''bridging'' bracket from flat steel with 4 bolt holes. The inner pair of holes match the caliper, the outer pair of bolt holes match the bolt holes on the ''ears'' of the ''primary'' bracket. The idea is to pre bolt the caliper to the ''secondary bridging'' bracket, and then bolt the ''bridging'' bracket complete with caliper to the more easily accessible bolt holes on the ''ears'' of the ''primary'' bracket. It probably sounds complicated, but really is very simple. I made a rough pencil drawing and taken a photo of what i am on about . If you are having difficulty following my description PM me your email address and I will email the drawing to you. If you think it has merit you are welcome to post it to the forum. Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Ok Grem, I have given this a bit of thought this morning and recall more clearly what I mocked up some years ago. The way I remember it is that there is just enough room for the caliper and socket head mounting bolts to sit snug against the swivel housing, but insufficient space to actually physically fit and do up the bolts, unless you grind a lot of metal off the swivel housing. The problem is that we are trying to attach the caliper to the fabricated bracket directly in only one stage. One solution is to make the caliper mounting bracket from 2 separate bolt together pieces. Example, with your wooden mock up bracket, which I will call the ''primary'' bracket,spread the ''ears'' further apart and extend them outwards slightly so that the bolt holes are easily accessible without grinding metal off the swivel housing. Then you make a ''secondary'' ''bridging'' bracket from flat steel with 4 bolt holes. The inner pair of holes match the caliper, the outer pair of bolt holes match the bolt holes on the ''ears'' of the ''primary'' bracket. The idea is to pre bolt the caliper to the ''secondary bridging'' bracket, and then bolt the ''bridging'' bracket complete with caliper to the more easily accessible bolt holes on the ''ears'' of the ''primary'' bracket. It probably sounds complicated, but really is very simple. I made a rough pencil drawing and taken a photo of what i am on about . If you are having difficulty following my description PM me your email address and I will email the drawing to you. If you think it has merit you are welcome to post it to the forum.Bill. Hi Bill, Thanks for your time, I know what you mean but a diagram will definetly help. You have a PM with my e-mail address, just attach and send. Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Have a look here uses the current Santana PS10 parts http://www.heystee-automotive.com/ just click the disk brake button on left side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Have a look here uses the current Santana PS10 parts http://www.heystee-automotive.com/ just click the disk brake button on left side The Heystee Santana kit is very nice, and of course uses all new components. I don't know about the UK,but the cost of the kit just about exceeds the total value of any series vehicle over here. wheras a little lateral thinking on the caliper mounting bracket may permit the more affordable use of mostly standard LandRover components, new or reconditioned. Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 Have a look here uses the current Santana PS10 parts http://www.heystee-automotive.com/ just click the disk brake button on left side That ruins the challange of doing it yourself for a quarter of the price, if not less. Thanks for the link but one of my criteria is to use rover parts for the sake of availability. Plus if my version will work, there will be many other series owner who might benefit from what i am doing To be honest i had made contact with the original manufacturer of the so called kits and the costs are highly inflated when they get to europe. The factory was going to tie me down with a minimum order which was not suited to me as i am not a shop or dealer plus the capital outlay was large (i am always skint), although i could have made some cash over the whole deal, but anyway that was a couple of years ago. Anyone want to give it a try?? Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiagoc Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 To be honest i had made contact with the original manufacturer of the so called kits and the costs are highly inflated when they get to europe. The factory was going to tie me down with a minimum order which was not suited to me as i am not a shop or dealer plus the capital outlay was large (i am always skint), although i could have made some cash over the whole deal, but anyway that was a couple of years ago. Anyone want to give it a try?? if that factory is in iran, i also contacted them a few time back, but the problem was the (portuguese) customs' taxes for the order. so i had to put that idea aside (even if it was a group buy) but if the uk has better customs' taxes, maybe it would work and was possible to get all the kits (PAS, discs, reinforced halfshafts, FWH, etc) for a fraction of the current price being asked by the shops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted June 11, 2007 Share Posted June 11, 2007 I feel it would be a financially very risky proposition for anyone to tie up capitol by purchasing quantities of high dollar special aftermarket kits for Series LandRovers. If my observations over here are anything to go by, these vehicles are long obsolete and due to high running costs,disappearing off our roads at an amazing rate. Most owners are skint and barely able to keep their vehicles running in standard form let alone forking out two thousand odd dollars for a brake conversion. Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted June 11, 2007 Share Posted June 11, 2007 if that factory is in iran, i also contacted them a few time back, but the problem was the (portuguese) customs' taxes for the order. so i had to put that idea aside (even if it was a group buy)but if the uk has better customs' taxes, maybe it would work and was possible to get all the kits (PAS, discs, reinforced halfshafts, FWH, etc) for a fraction of the current price being asked by the shops Yes the factory in iran, i am from Malta so not being on mainland europe made me stop that venture. As Bill rightly pointed out, no one will spend such an outlay for a kit, especially over here so my option was of selling abroad off the net. Once again economics dictate it was not viable, so i went the diy route especially when a pair of free calipers came my way. Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 Ok i finally got down to continue the installation of the disks onto my series. I kitted the calipers and put them back together finally! Next was a trial fit on the vehicle. After some grinding of the swivel all fit well and i am pretty happy with the result. Next step is pipes and bleeding on one side. The other side is a different story.............. >. The other caliper bracket has been machined wrongly and it will have to be redone.......grrrrrrr. I just cannot figure out how you commission 2 identical brackets and one get made badly!! Anyway, so its basically more waiting until i get another one made or another 2 just to make sure they are identical. Here are some pics............ Hub and disk Bracket Thats it for now, its a slow affair so please be patient, especially now that i need to have the other side bracket redone..................grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!! Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiagoc Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 you're taking your time, but at least you're doing it. i'm still deciding if i'll fit discs at the back, at the same time of the front, or if i keep the drums. and i'm also trying to find some time to do it all (this is the biggest problem, really)!! new year resolution: install the bloody discs!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted December 27, 2007 Share Posted December 27, 2007 you're taking your time, but at least you're doing it. i'm still deciding if i'll fit discs at the back, at the same time of the front, or if i keep the drums. and i'm also trying to find some time to do it all (this is the biggest problem, really)!! new year resolution: install the bloody discs!!! Rears will follow soon, i bought 110 brackets all i need are the calipers and than its a matter of mix and match of hubs and disks to get the rears to work, no machining involved there i hope!! Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 You need to thin the 110 mount brackets down by about 1mm or so IIRC and it'll all bolt up - oh and you need to drill the holes in the end of the axle tube out to 10mm otherwise its nuts and bolts. I've posted before somewhere how to do it - its easy enough. Cheers Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adz Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 Time for the next question, what toyota model? Hilux? any chance of a part number?I am asking as the ones i found have 6 mounting holes!! I am having trouble locating the right disc with maybe 5 holes!! Help!! Grem IIRC second generation MR2's and Celicas have 5 stud hubs... err... which means 5 hole discs Not exactly cheap if you're after new ones though - circa £60 a pair for the earlier ones to fit a 14" wheel and £120 a pair for the later ones to fit a 15" wheel. Fensport are probably the cheapest source in the UK for them and their recon calipers are pretty good too. Yes... I used to drive hairdressers cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 Thanks for the tip, but disks have been sorted by using rover bits, cheap and readily available. grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiagoc Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 Thanks for the tip, but disks have been sorted by using rover bits, cheap and readily available.grem will you change the flanges to 24 splines, and use the later S3 halfshafts (24/10 splines)? what hubs and discs are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 will you change the flanges to 24 splines, and use the later S3 halfshafts (24/10 splines)? what hubs and discs are you using? I already run 24 spline flanges as its a stage 1 v8 front axle. Hubs are machined series 3 items and disks are late rear 110 non salisbury type. Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Ok 2nd set ready and trial fitted............. perfect this time and i am very pleased. Some further minor grinding required on the swivels to clear the bolts, but its all looking good. Hopefully test drive next week. Some pics of the progress, and new vs old brackets. It's all very tight....... Thats it for now, test drive next and the results of all this work........... Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Todays update, i made a slight indent in the face of the bracket which meets the stub so any oil leaks from the hub will go down that way. The stub axle also has the same as late series 3's had this to protect the drums from oil contamination. The same now applies for the discs, any oil leaks from the hubs will dribble behind the bracket leaving my pads and disks oil free! (i hope) I also made an oil retainer ring just as a precaution, this fits snugly with the hub making any oil go down the hole and keeping nasty things out of the oilseal. i also made the bolt holes for the caliper to contact the shank of the bolt so any stesses will be passed to the bolt shank and not the treads. I also made the brake pipe adaptors, bent to shape and ready for installation. Some pics The whole thing together Recess for bolt shank Brake pipe Thats it for now, next week assembly........ Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 Ok the final assembly has started, one side done, very pleased as it all came together nicely. Space between rim and caliper is tight but it all fits with 15" rims , pics as usual assembled and a rear view showing rim Test drive soon.................. Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 Well done Grem. Would a standard offset LandRover 5.5'' x 16'' rim clear the caliper ? Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve H Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 What Bill said :lol: That looks like a nice bit of machining, a credit to you, well done. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted January 27, 2008 Share Posted January 27, 2008 Well done Grem. Would a standard offset LandRover 5.5'' x 16'' rim clear the caliper ?Bill. Hi Bill Thanks I doubt it will , i have a standard rim, i will try it out on the other side and let everybody know. Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 the spacer ring which is screwed to the outside of the hub, i take it thats there to replace the thickness of the drum that used to be there? if so it needs to be 216mm diameter so that the wheel bolts flat on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 Hi All, i finally got down to making the whole saga into one piece, its located on another forum but if the moderators do not object i can post it here as well for others to see. Read it all here http://www.awdc-malta.com/smf/index.php?topic=4461.0 Enjoy Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 Hi All, i finally got down to making the whole saga into one piece, its located on another forum but if the moderators do not object i can post it here as well for others to see.Read it all here http://www.awdc-malta.com/smf/index.php?topic=4461.0 Enjoy Grem Hi Grem, just followed your link and it is asking me to login and to login you have to register. Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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