Geert DCPU Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 The MOT-regulations are strict: grinding/welding/cutting (and hammering by extension ) is forbidden - understandable in light of d-i-y in the shed versus proffesionally done. Covering the issue with paint is like playing the lotto: you might get lucky, but next year? Belgian MOT: sometimes hard to follow, e.g.: - winch + rope: no extra winchcover needed, winch + steel cable: cover mandatory - tyres 255-85 on a def registered as 'people carrier': MOT-failure, same def registered as a 'van': no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 It's a good shout to clock the xbrake back plate, we had to do this ten years ago to clear a crossmember Some pics here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 14 hours ago, Geert DCPU said: The MOT-regulations are strict: grinding/welding/cutting (and hammering by extension ) is forbidden - understandable in light of d-i-y in the shed versus proffesionally done. Covering the issue with paint is like playing the lotto: you might get lucky, but next year? Even if your vehicle is perfectly legal the Belgian MOT is a lottery. Nobody will notice a factory-looking notch in the chassis. Technically you're not allowed to change anything in the driveline either, so I doubt that X-Brake is legal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 How would you repair chassis rot/damage if you aren't allowed to cut/grind/weld the chassis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geert DCPU Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 1 hour ago, Retroanaconda said: How would you repair chassis rot/damage if you aren't allowed to cut/grind/weld the chassis? In between front and back axle: no repairs, replacing rear cross member is allowed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 I fitted an X-Brake ten years ago. Not ever had a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 I'd first try loosening all the transmission and engine mounts and pulling the transmission forward as far as possible before retightening to see if you can gain some clearance that way. Next, I'd look at making a crank in the operating arm so that its splined end stays where it is but the clevis pin end is forward of the cross member; this would likely need the arm cut off and a spacing section welded at 90 degrees to give the arm a Z section. Obviously, that welding quality would need to be high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geert DCPU Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 After lots of measuring and thinking (and cursing in 7 languages ) - I've decided to go back to the standard handbrake As there is no legal solution (@snagger: z-profiling isn't working either - but thx for the tip!) to fix the lack of play, there is only the way back. Thx fot the input and suggestions! So in brief: TD4 2.2 Puma-engine: as the bellhousing is bigger, transferbox and gearbox come further to the rear - mounting the x-eng handbrake conversion without grinding the cross-member is impossible. The mounting becomes illegal due tot Belgian MOT-restrictions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 So, to clarify the situation a little, are the propshafts for 2.2, 2.4 engined Defenders different from TD5 and earlier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geert DCPU Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 Can't tell you that, not that technically schooled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Are you sure about those welding rules? It sounds extremely draconian and utterly self defeating, preventing safe repair of damaged vehicles. A forum member living in Belgium rebuilt a Tdi Discovery not long ago, and I'm sure that entailed a lot of welding of the chassis and inner shell, plus getting the inspection done. Ask to see the rules first hand - many of us have run into problems with inspectors misinterpreting or making up their own rules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geert DCPU Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 like posted before: welding in between axes is forbidden, replacing rear cross members f.e. is allowed, so I think the rebuild was done with a lot of welding on the shell, but not to the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 13 hours ago, Snagger said: Are you sure about those welding rules? It sounds extremely draconian and utterly self defeating, preventing safe repair of damaged vehicles. A forum member living in Belgium rebuilt a Tdi Discovery not long ago, and I'm sure that entailed a lot of welding of the chassis and inner shell, plus getting the inspection done. Ask to see the rules first hand - many of us have run into problems with inspectors misinterpreting or making up their own rules. The rule is there, the thing is that nobody really cares. Unless you find the one tester that's been dumped the day before and is in a really bad mood. If the chassis is full of bird poo welds they'll notice, if it looks factory, nobody will bat an eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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