daveturnbull Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 I need to change the wheel bearings on my new (to me) rear axle. It's from a 2003 110, so has the later type stake nut, not the 2 nuts and lock washer that I am used to. I've heard that the kindest thing to do is to take the new style stuff off (incl crush tube?) and throw it in the hedge, then refit all of the old style bits. Anyone had similar experiences, or any advice to offer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Yes, the solution is to throw the tube away and revert back to the two lock nuts and lock washer. It's a pain as you need to torque the nut up and measure then measure the end float and then select the right spacer ring to go between the two bearings. It's not a crush tube so you need a whole stock of all the different sizes! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted October 23, 2017 Author Share Posted October 23, 2017 Hmmm.... that sounds like a right faff. Back to the old skool it is then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Yep! I'll guess you'll update the build thread in due course, but did it all come apart ok? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted October 23, 2017 Author Share Posted October 23, 2017 I don't think it had ever been apart from new - sooooo much threadlock meant it was a bit of a fight on the caliper bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Well, good you got it apart! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 I had to drill and split the stake nuts on the axle I stripped as no matter what I did I couldn't get them undone with the axle unrestrained on the floor. Job for a windy gun for sure, or big breaker bar if the axle is on the vehicle. I'd bet that like most things of this nature the bearings are made to a high enough tolerance that, so long as you replace like-for-like, the required spacer would not change as it's allowing for differences in the machining of the hub. However the earlier two-nut system is certainly more 'home mechanic' friendly and has no significant disadvantages so is the preferred route for many. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted October 23, 2017 Author Share Posted October 23, 2017 I straightened the stake nut out as much as possible with a small screwdriver, then on with the usual box hub nut spanner, longest extension I had and jack handle over then end it popped off a treat. Probably helps having it all bolted to the car rather than on the floor. There is still some grease in the bearings and I reckon they would clean up and go again with fresh grease. Not that I'll do that, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 I did my front bearings in the td5 axle, didn't measure end float but even with OE bearings fitted there was slight play using the existing spacer. It got relegated to the scrap pile and the two nuts were fitted. Nice idea in theory...not so nice in application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 I prefer the td5 version. My view is that if the bearing shows play it’s worn... I swapped out what I believe to be the originals at 95k miles because I changed the disks etc. 150 k mikes now and all going strong. You may be able to adjust the old setup but you are essentially running on worn bearings. Treat them well, keep them clean and well greased and they last.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 My point is even with brand new genuine LR bearings installed I still had what I (and the MOT tester) considered play in the bearing...so not adjusting play out of a worn set of bearings/races. Faffing about with the dial gauge and ordering/waiting for the appropriate sized spacer when I could fit the nut kit in minutes made no sense. Adjusting and repacking the hubs is something I tend to do at service time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 Well I've had a rummage around the garage and scrap bin, and have found 2 of the old style lock nuts and a lock washer, but no sign of any of the spacers (FTC3185). I don't suppose anyone has a spare knocking around that they could pop in an envelope and post to me? MOT is booked for Saturday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 On 23/10/2017 at 10:43 PM, Scotts90 said: My point is even with brand new genuine LR bearings installed I still had what I (and the MOT tester) considered play in the bearing...so not adjusting play out of a worn set of bearings/races. Faffing about with the dial gauge and ordering/waiting for the appropriate sized spacer when I could fit the nut kit in minutes made no sense. Adjusting and repacking the hubs is something I tend to do at service time. Mmmm.... No spacers in mine apart from the one that fits between the inner and outer bearings that effectively sets the distance between them... I simply pushed the old races out, cleaned it all up, fitted the new (And new disks at the time) and fitted it all back together. New bearings were Timken and once the 52mm nut was tightened to effin tight as prescribed, all was well. No dial gauge, or additional spacers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Its just a big thick washer to allow a bit of stand off for the first locking nut, so you're not tightening it directly onto the inner bearing race, get more even load spread on it too, pretty standard for ever hub I've ever dismantled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 was trying to find a decent pic as you two are talking about a standard two-nut arrangement... on the pic you can see the spacer next to the drive flange, this presets the end float relative to the shaft...you're meant to measure this with a dial gauge and if there's any movement you read off a chart to get the correct one to reduce end float to zero. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 45 minutes ago, V8 Freak said: Mmmm.... No spacers in mine apart from the one that fits between the inner and outer bearings that effectively sets the distance between them... I simply pushed the old races out, cleaned it all up, fitted the new (And new disks at the time) and fitted it all back together. New bearings were Timken and once the 52mm nut was tightened to effin tight as prescribed, all was well. No dial gauge, or additional spacers.... You got lucky by the sounds of it. I think that spacer comes in a variety of lengths, rather than basic+shims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Spacers run from 14.9 to 15.4mm in 0.1mm increments and are colour coded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 1 hour ago, V8 Freak said: Mmmm.... No spacers in mine apart from the one that fits between the inner and outer bearings that effectively sets the distance between them... I simply pushed the old races out, cleaned it all up, fitted the new (And new disks at the time) and fitted it all back together. New bearings were Timken and once the 52mm nut was tightened to effin tight as prescribed, all was well. No dial gauge, or additional spacers.... Yes that's the spacer we are talking about...you must have a good hub lol. Mine wasn't ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 I'll thank my lucky things then that all 4 went back together without issue!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SumDarkPlace Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 We replaced the tube type bearings with 2 nut types on our 2013 110 before exporting it to the Caribbean. Parts are harder to get, so getting the extra life out of the bearings keeps the car on the road while new bearings make their slow way to the island! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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