mcc1979ian Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 Ok so Iv been getting an odd knocking noise now and again as I let off the accelerator which I assume is the exhaust rattling as it sits just a few mm from the front of the bellhousing then today on my way home from Edinburgh she was struggling to pull uphill and started filling the cab with smoke and stunk of clutch. The clutch doesn’t appear to slip and the box is super smooth. At the time she was rollin coal but just didn’t wanna pull. Now I’m lost for ideas as to what could be the problem. Iv been out since getting home and there’s a tiny drop of oil lying directly below the wading plug but can’t see anything else outa place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 Your exhaust downpipe hasn't come off the turbo outlet has it ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 Nope it’s still firmly in place. It’s the fact that I went out later and the clutch bite point is now just off the floor by 1/2 an inch that’s confusing me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Turbo actuator hose come loose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 dead slave cylinder, what does the dripping oil feel & smell like ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Handbrake sticking partially on? [I had this happen ages ago on a Defender, after the engine-to-chassis earth connection had been wonky for a while: the starter current had been earthing back to the battery-box via the handbrake cable, partly melting the nylon sheathing over the inner, and causing it to bind so the h/brake didn't fully release. Burned brake linings smell the same as clutch ones.] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Disintegrated clutch plate... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 Would an incorrectly adjusted master cylinder be an option? Been one o them days where iv had way too much time on my hands at work so been trawling the web. I thought earlier that on my way to work last Monday morning that when I pressed the clutch it was as if she kept trying to drive so I googled some stuff and that was one option I found. As if the pressure in the hydraulic system wouldn’t let it fully disengage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 6 hours ago, Bowie69 said: Disintegrated clutch plate... Would I still be able to drive it home? Done 40ml since it happened. 7 hours ago, Tanuki said: Handbrake sticking partially on? [I had this happen ages ago on a Defender, after the engine-to-chassis earth connection had been wonky for a while: the starter current had been earthing back to the battery-box via the handbrake cable, partly melting the nylon sheathing over the inner, and causing it to bind so the h/brake didn't fully release. Burned brake linings smell the same as clutch ones.] Handbrake seems ok. It’s the fact the clutch has been very spongy and now bites as soon as ye lift yer foot that steers me to clutch system related. 11 hours ago, Eightpot said: Turbo actuator hose come loose? Systems say more like clutch related 9 hours ago, western said: dead slave cylinder, what does the dripping oil feel & smell like ? Just had new slave as the box went back in 2 weeks ago but the lad that done it said it wouldn’t fit with the rubber seal on the end so removed it and fitted without. Need to get under when I get home and try and get a sample o the oil to figure it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share Posted February 27, 2018 Ok so been thinkin way too much and remembered a few things. Mechanic gave me the little copper bushing back that goes in the rear of the crank saying it doesn’t need to be fitted then I remembered the shim from the slave was lying in the footwell too. Gona take her off the road for a month or 2 whilst I remove the bulkhead for repairs and finish painting her so will pull out the box then and sort the job myself. Install bushing, replace shim, fit new slave including the rubber cap, fit a staple to the arm/release bearing as I found that in the footwell too, adjust master cylinder push rod, replace the little hard pipe between slave and flexi that appears to leak slightly. At the moment it’s going fine as my old man’s been running around in it this week. Says it’s very smooth with the replacement box and slick shift so at least something’s gone well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Sounds like your mechanic may have cut a few corners to me. Not necessarily the cause of your problems but not a good sign nonetheless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcc1979ian Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share Posted February 27, 2018 To be honest I’d usually do it myself but when it first started it was mid harvest so I had literally no time so got a lad I went to school many moons ago to tackle it. Kinda regretting it now. Goes in then a month or so later it finally gets done and comes with a silly bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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