SarahT Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Hi I am in a pickle with my Series 3 Landy. I have had intermittent brake light problems for a while ie they can sometimes work and sometimes not.The lights themselves work ok simply not when pressing the brake pedal. I have had new rear lights fitted, new brake switches installed and a complete wiring check. Now my garage is stumped as to what to try next as the brake lights are intermittently working. There appears to be no rhyme or reason for it, they have suggested I get a new pedal box, I presume the lever that initiates the brake light switch to operate may be faulty? It is a simple operation and for over 12 years the brake lights have worked perfectly. I wonder does anyone have any suggestions what I might suggest to try as I have run out of ideas and am missing having my Landy at home. I look forward to hearing your ideas, Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 Is it a later dual circuit with servo type? With the switch in the engine compartment? That switch is very different to fit, the ROM covers it in detail. Basically, if you screw it in too far, the pedal rams the plunger through the contact plate, breaking it. Works once, then intermittently, then not at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 As Gazza says, but I've seen people struggle with the non servo type similarly. Does smack of a dodgy connection, though. When the wiring was checked, were the bullet connectors cleaned up and the joiners checked for a tight fit? The connector block between the main and rear loom (usually right next to the steering box) cab be fickle. Under the light cover in the rear tub where the chassis loom joins the right hand light and the wire crossing to the left would be a good thing to give a really good look at too. Good luck, and let us know how you get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted April 16, 2018 Share Posted April 16, 2018 I think some have 2 similar holes for the brake light switch. The second hole was a form of pad wear indicator - it was a second switch which operated when the pedal travel became excessive. It was linked in with the PDWA and the low vacuum warning light. Are you using the correct hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_meakin Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Do your rear side lights work normally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Britpart switches are particularly troublesome, cutting in and out at different points of travel and making switch adjustment impossible. Make sure you use a genuine switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 Does it look like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_meakin Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Well it's great to give all this input and hear absolutely nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 I'm sure the OP will post when there is something to report - it may well be that the truck is back with the mechanic addressing some of the points raised .. the symptoms certainly suggest switch issues cheers Steve b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 It's not uncommon for non-specialist mechanics to log in to ask a question for a problem they can't fix and disappear without a reply when they get the answer they need. It could also just be that the poster is on a trip and doesn't have regular internet access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonQuixote Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Well, I've had a similar problem, and replaced the switch. Yes - it's the same one in the picture - the electronic one on top of the brake pedal box under the bonnet. From everything I've read on other forums, these switches are finicky. My theory is that when you twist to adjust down or up, you have to be super careful to gently remove the wires or it will break the switch mechanism inside. My old one was intermittent just as described. I was really careful with the new one, said a prayer and it's okay for the time being. As a back up, I'm planning to install another switch under the dash, at the top of the brake pedal, like the old style (and in most new vehicles of all makes these days). I found the old bracket for the brake pedal switch on EBAY (UK) and ordered the retaining nut from Rimmer Bros (UK). I got the special plastic switch from one of the local companies in USA. I made a video of my drama, and I'll post it on YouTube in the next couple of weeks. I need to edit the sound. Thanks all for your comments! Mike New to this forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 Hi Mike. Didn't we know eachother on LRNet? Anyway, that switch should be a doddle to set, but only if it's genuine - the pattern copies tend to activate and deactivate at different point of travel, unlike the genuine switches that activate and deactivate at the same point. That makes all the difference. The genuine one took me about two minutes, including getting the tools out. Twenty minutes with a Britpart one ended in a lot of swearing and a trip to buy a genuine one!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.