ianmayco68 Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 Hi all , how easy is it to strip and rebuild a steering box ? Do you need any special tools for setting it up ? The reason I am asking is I have a old steering box off my 110 , it was working fine when I removed it during the rebuild but somehow the case got damaged after removal. The threaded hole where the return hose screws into got pushed in so basically it’s useless, I can’t send it for a refurb box as it’s not serviceable . So as I’ve got another knackered box lying around I thought, strip both boxes and providing the parts are okay get a genuine seal kit rebuild with all the good parts and bingo I’d have a good box . I have searched the net and I know the consensus is that new seals very rarely work , I also read a very good post by mickeyw off here , which didn’t work out for him. So do you all think it’s worth wasting some time on ? Well at least stripping the unserviceable box just to see what the parts are like inside. Any advice most welcome. chers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 You could take the gamble and try rebuilding one out of the two. The seal replacement kits tend to fail as the part where the seal lands on the shaft tends to be worn and pitted. If it's been a good dry unit then I can't see why it wouldn't work. I got an alledgedly rebuilt unit for the white one which didn't last...a refurb unit varies from about £250 up. I ended up "borrowing" the 250k td5 one which still remains as dry as a bone (yes, there's fluid in it lol). I'll just save my pennies and buy a new one as it appears to be the only way to guarantee no leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 That’s what I was thinking, I’ve got the one off the 90 I’m rebuilding on the 110 at the minute , yes know what you mean about rebuilt ones . Was going to try shop4autoparts they sell rebuilt ones and they’re listed as Oem rebuilt so was thinking they might be better . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 I bought a recon one for my RRC and it failed in 6 months. Adwest did recon themselves for a while, but I was under the impression they're no longer doing it or have gone bust. But as per Scott's recommendation, find a really good second hand unit or buy a new one - don't waste money on recon as it's all con and no re. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 I've used the leak stop stuff before bought me about 6 months. I I've rebuilt one before, I had to make a couple of tools as I didn't have propper ones. It's fiddly to get the bits in the right place to line them up and takes a fair bit of time but it worked for me. I think it depends how worn the shaft is. I don't know if you can speedy sleeve it or not, or put a thicker seal in, I can't remember what the shaft is like off the top of my head. Either way the parts are cheap enough so you've only your time to lose, it's up to you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 There are one or two tutorials on the rebuild on the internet which would give a taste of what you are taking on; as I recall one cautions against a speedisleeve, saying you can't rebuild it again after because it can be dismantled. There are also the seals from Zeus Engineering which I believe use different sections of the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 That should read can't be dismantled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 I've had success with rebuilding steering boxes, but only with swapping out output shafts, I have left the input shaft well alone. There is a manual online for rebuilding them, I can't remember where I found it now! I made a tool up to tighten the sliding rack up. There's a little grub screw underneath which you need to loosen. So if you have a good output shaft that you could put into the other box, I would give it a go! Let me know if you have any questions! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 Cheers all , thanks Steve will take you up on that as I have decided to have a go . Think the way forward is to strip the box with the knackered case and see what the parts are like inside will post some pics up when I do it to see if they are ok . Have found the usual cheap and nasty seal kits on eBay but have found a corteco seal kit and a GACO one which are £30 each is there any preference ? And have found someone that sells some of the other parts . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 Ok cool, yep I use the Corteco seals. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share Posted July 18, 2018 Cheers Steve , corteco it is . The sliding rack you mention in your above post is that something that needs tightening up as the box gets older ? Does it remove any slack in the input shaft ? cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 What I found was that you can adjust the box in the usual way with the grub screw on top of the box which move the output shaft south, I'm guessing there some sort of taper somewhere which closes up. But you can only go so far and I was running out of travel to remove the slack. So yes tightening that big adjuster on the side pushes the pad that the rack slides on nearer to the teeth on the output shaft removing the play. Remember to wind out the grub screw tot the top before tightening the pad and also do all the adjustment with the arm in the straight ahead position (which is actually slightly to one side) where the two notches in the drop arm line up with the hole just to the back of the output shaft. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share Posted July 18, 2018 That’s brilliant Steve thank you very much , the box off my project that I put on the 110 has some slack in the input shaft which is quite noticeable so I will try tightening that up and see if it makes any difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 The whole rebuild process is in the 1997 300tdi workshop manual available to download here: http://www.landroverweb.com/landrover/pdf-land-rover-manuals/ or other places, I can't remember where I downloaded my copy from. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share Posted July 18, 2018 Cheers Steve , will get that down loaded and printed off . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share Posted July 18, 2018 Already got a manual in the back of my workshop manual for the 200tdi , that’s a bonus . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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