Gazzar Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 Steve Parker has a P38a PAS conversion kit. Not debating the quality, or otherwise, of the kit, but I was curious as to why they went for the steering bar arrangement, rather than using the standard drag link. https://www.steveparkers.com/product/spck339pask2-power-steering-kit-land-rover-series-2a-3/ G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted August 10, 2018 Share Posted August 10, 2018 I suspect that attaching the drag link to the tie rod is to do with reducing the wheel turns from 4 to 3. If the drag link extended all the way to the steering arm, as standard, the point of attachment is further from the swivel pin centre line. This means the end of the drag link has to travel further (side to side) in order to achieve the neccesary swivel of the hub to give full lock. To say the same thing in a different way; Attaching the drag link to the tie bar effectively puts the drag link attachment to the steering arm at the same place as the tie bar, closer to the swivel pin axis. For any given steering lock this shorter distance reduces the sideways movement of the drag link, the angular movement of the steering relay drop arm, and therefore the turns of the steering wheel. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 The distance from the axis at the axle, to the drag link, is shorter. Of course. That makes sense. Complex way of achieving what could be done by taking out a swivel pin shim. That would make the steering heavier! G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 I think it looks a great solution. Anyone who can turn up there own bits also has a pictorial guide as to what is required, 3 turns would be great for an 88. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornish Rattler Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 I was getting quite interested in this till I read up on it and it mentioned the word welding ( can't do plus its a new galv chassis ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 I think there are ways around that. If you use the relay hole as one end of a clamp, you should be able to attach without welding. It's the drag link that bothers me, I get what they are doing, but am slightly worried that is another extra point of failure. Though it's no more than stock series, I suppose, when you consider you lose the steering box to relay arm. I'll think about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted August 11, 2018 Author Share Posted August 11, 2018 Plus, losing the series wheel is a show stopper. Not happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 Gwynn Lewis keeps sumo bars the correct length for a series with a P38 box conversion on the shelf. I bought one recently when I did my conversion. They aren’t on the website but if you ring him up they are in stock. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 11, 2018 Share Posted August 11, 2018 I don't see how just one bracket (of the many required) and a pair of steering rods can come to that price. None of it is complex to have fabricated at a local steel shop for a fraction of the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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