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Could this work?


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I have a 2002 110 hardtop with central locking.
The passenger door recently would not close and I had to give it a bit of a slam. The lock now will not open with the remote or from the inside. Interestingly the key does not fit the passenger door either! The key is the ignnition key and this fits the driver's door and rear door without problems. I've tried removing the door card, but can't get very far with this and fishing around in the gap with bits of welding rod and flat strips of metal has achieved nothing.

I have a cunning plan however:

As it is a hardtop I can see and reach the bolts holding the striker plate: I'm thinking of taking the nuts off the retaining bolts for the striker plate and then cutting them as close as I can to the pillar - hopefully bearing in mind Defender build tolerances the door should open with the striker plate still atached. With the door open, I can then properly remove the door card and sort out whatever is wrong with the actuating rods (or whatever)

Whilst I have access to the innards of the door, I'll see if there is any number on the lock barrel and then get a key for the passenger side as I think this would be a lot cheaper than a door barrel!

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Think you plan has a flaw in it?

If it's like the 300Tdi the bolts on the back of the pillar holding the striker are welded/fixed to a plate, so yo wont be able to undo them.

I had similar problem and for the life can't femember how i resolved the issue!?! Only that it was fiddling around inside the door! I think you have to push something down near the catch???

Be careful if yours is the rod mechanism as if you push or pull too hard on them they can bend out of shape or separate. 

But there are others on here with more know how so you should have a result soon. Good luck

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Go with Bowie69 idea... bits are coming back to me slowly? I think there is a rob off from the push button that goes down and back to the catch, it's fairly short and i think you push it down where it meets the catch???

Fiddly as hell mind think it's only a thin edge you have to push on?

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If I'm reading this right and you're trying to get the door open but the handle/button isn't releasing it - get a thin flat bladed screwdriver and from the inside of the car, wiggle the blade levering it up using the striker as a fulcrum, up into the top of the door latch where there is a little keeper plate that holds the latch closed. When you push this back up the door will pop open.  

Will make more sense if you try it on an open door so you can see where to prod.

Sometimes this happens if the striker isn't in the right place, or if the latch mechanism needs changing - sometimes a good spray of lube in the latch helps also.

Edited by Eightpot
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@Lightning.....Not sure why you think he will need a NEW lock mechanism!?!....It's possible yes, but surely not before the old one is cleaned up and lubed, plus moving the striker around to find the best latching position may resolve his issue!?! By all means if mechanism is deemed fubar'd after inspection, but why spend money when a simple clean up and moving of striker may fix?

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Thanks for your replies Guys, I will try Eightpot's suggestion and will attempt to open from the inside with a thin flat bladed screwdriver when I get a Chance (waiting for a weekend, owing to a littl'un going to swimming lessons and Brownies etc and dark mornings!)

My attempts to remove the door card have failed; I have removed the trim around the locking button, but can only unclip the door card from the top and a little way down.

 

 

Edited by Steve King
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And while i think about it!?!.... when you are fitting this in place, put some Lock Thread on the little grub screw that holds the barrel lock and mechanism bits in place! As these are renown for coming undone and causing the barrel lock to fall out! Save grief  later on.

  • Haha 1
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Partial success!

I got bogged down with various other tasks and wasn't able to spend much time on the Defender. However, Eightpot's suggestion of a thin bladed screwdriver worked and the door popped open with the second prod!

Owing to fading light, I have locked it again! I will try to spend next Saturday having a good look at the linkeages with the door card off. I suspect from the feel of the locking button that something is out of line or bent.

Edited by Steve King
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It can be as simple as the striker moving on the door frame  - if it has moved a bit over the years , or if door hinges are worn so the latch is now lower, the latch just gets wedged on the striker. You may need to remove a shim on the striker as well if it is sitting a bit far out. And sometimes the latch gets gummed up with dust and needs a good squirt out with penetrating oil, sometimes the latch just needs renewing. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/1/2018 at 5:51 PM, Mutley said:

And while i think about it!?!.... when you are fitting this in place, put some Lock Thread on the little grub screw that holds the barrel lock and mechanism bits in place! As these are renown for coming undone and causing the barrel lock to fall out! Save grief  later on.

Shut my recently rebuilt passenger door shut yesterdarday and heard the faint ping of a small screw hitting the inside of the bottom of the door now the lock is inoperative. Job for today. Oh the joys....

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