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Defender 300300Tdi 1995

At the battery the there is 12.4 Volts

At the Fuse box the Voltage is 11.5 Volts

A drop of 0.9 volts

Where and what do i need to be looking at to increase the Voltage at the fuse box?

Andy 

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The connector block that feeds into the main bulkhead loom can be quite crusty.

IMG_2915.JPG

 

Mine was shagged so I removed it and took the opportunity to feed each of the big brown wires via a 20A fuse, as LR don't fuse this by default and it gives me the heebie-jeebies;

IMG_2981.JPG

Big red wire is from starter motor B+, old brown wires into main bulkhead loom on the left.

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Later models have much lighter duty connectors. Best bet is to locate a connector with the same colour combination, or one very like it. Probably in cream coloured or translucent plastic rather than black rubber.

Just as a by the by, a fully charged battery should be giving you 13.2 volts

Edited by neil110
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53 minutes ago, neil110 said:

Just as a by the by, a fully charged battery should be giving you 13.2 volts

 

Sorry, but no, 12.6V is fully charged after 12 hours off the charger for a normal lead acid battery.

 

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All Lead acid batteries (Gel, AGM, Flooded, Drycell, etc) are made up of a series of 2.2 volt cells that are bridged together in series to reach their final desired voltage. For instance, a 6 volt battery will have 3 cells (3 x2.2= 6.6 volts), a 12 volt battery will have 6 cells (6 x2.2=13.2 volts) and so on.That 2.2 volts is the fully charged, straight off the charger number. The actual resting voltage, or the voltage a battery will settle at 12-24 hours after being removed from the charger, is closer to 2.1 volts per cell, or about 6.4 volts for a 6v battery, and 12.7 volts for a 12v battery. These numbers assume 100% healthy cells, and may vary a bit lower for older batteries.

A heavy discharge tester will soon show up a weak battery

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