2.5 petrol rebuild and conversion to EFI thread?

[Gazzar]

The distributer skew gear, that is driven by the cam shaft, is a tricky thing to fit.

There's three aspects to the trickiness:

1 the gear helix means the alignment when you drop the gear in, isn't where it ends up.

2 the positioning has to be done when the valves on piston 4 are on the rock

3 alignment of the locating/retaining screw is indirect

 

I couldn't get the alignment at first, and couldn't figure out why, until I re read the manual. I expected it to be on piston 1, which was wrong.

 

Locating the retaining screw was achieved after the alignment of the gear was sorted, raising and lowering the gear assembly resulted in the outer cylinder turning slightly, until eventually the hole was exposed. Then, using a screwdriver through the oil filter oil channel hole, I was able to get the retainer screw in.

I used a new gear, this is the old one.

 

 

[Gazzar]

Next was the oil pump.

I rebuilt this, though it probably didn't need it.

The biggest problem was the strainer retaining bolt. It's a huge bolt, and almost impossible to access.

I ended up using a water pump pliers to undo this. Eucgh!

It's not very tight, as it seals against an O ring, it also has a lock washer, so it's secure.

 

[Landrover17H]

Said before, but love this thread and its detail. Don't think I've  seen it matched. Will likely take you up on a loan/hire of your 'blox'. Minded to the ACR cam, i was wunderin' about how the skew-gear alignment/synch was going to work. Last did mine years back, and can't remember what I did. Can't remember if you, or I said, but for the benefit of others, the 5MB requires a 3MB timing sprocket for the ACR cam.

I suspect a new set of pump-gears would be wiser, yet I've bought myself a 'bluebox' oil-pump, more because a faulty oil-pressure switch had me thinking a pump was required. Intended to fit as a stop-gap for a full-rebuild. Won't be misled again, now have an oil-pressure gauge, and an oil-temperature too.

Keep it up, I'm sure it's not only the likes of me looking forward to this thread. It's LR4x4.com's answer to another installment of Project Binky...

Ahem... for those of you with no idea what I'm wittering on about:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hCPODjJO7s

Edited June 5, 2020 by Landrover17H

[Gazzar]

Binky is a good project, it's caused me to raise my standards, for sure.

The plan for today is to get the engine covered up, timing cover, sump, cam plates. 

This is more difficult than it first appears, as it will involve spray painting and so forth.

 

Eucgh, scared of spray painting.

Ohhhh, forgot. I put a speedy sleeve on the pulley. This wasn't difficult but it didn't feel it seated as well as other Speedi sleeves I've done. It also seemed to be a narrower band than the unbranded versions I usually use. We'll see if it works, or if oil spews out.

[Landrover17H]

Sadly, Binky reveals me as a lack-lustre talent, two stages from your 'actual' bodger. Life's too short, there's no way in this million years I'd find myself with the will to sustain their standard. But great entertainment.

Speedi-sleeve. Recall putting one of those on the Transfer-box output shaft. Quick and cheap I like. My pulley is looking pretty good, but in 'PAS flavour' it's a £130 part - may as well do it whilst I'm on.

Putting paint to anything was never my first love either. i use a brush for everything. Did wheel-rims a few weeks back, 1" brush, they look good, if only for 'barnyard' stuff. Which is where my 109 lives anyway.

Doth thou hapst to have Speedi-sleeve number?

Edited June 6, 2020 by Landrover17H

[Gazzar]

I need to learn how to use the spray gun. I think a pressure regulator may be involved.

Anyway. The plan was to use the baffle plate from the 2.5 and the sump from the ex mod, as the ex mod baffle was quite damaged.

It didn't work out that way.....

 

[Gazzar]

The ex mod sump was what I wanted; I'm fitting a ffr oil cooler, as I think they look amazing. I know they're rubbish at cooling but they look the business.

They require a sump with an oil return line and a temperature gauge sender.

I removed the baffle, the finger sander was great at taking down the weld without damaging the sump proper.

The sump was badly dented. So I had to de dent it. 

 

[Gazzar]

The baffle came out with out too much of a fight.

[Gazzar]

Then it was happy hammer time.

!

 

[Gazzar]

I turned to the modern sump to remove the goods baffle. 

This was spot welded in place, so I quickly decided to leave alone. 

The old baffle would have to do.

Much heating, hammering and bending later it was passable, not great, but would do.

[Gazzar]

I coated everything with a zinc rich primer, because.... Rust?

 

[Gazzar]

Then some nice welds, and one or two that weren't nice. I'm out of practice.

[Gazzar]

Finally, lots more zinc rich paint.

I was going to whack on some high build zinc primer, but that would have involved thinners, spray guns, air lines, and all that pain. So I used an aerosol or two.

Meh. It's a Landrover, it will outlive the eco version 10 times over, so it's better on the environment this way.

[Gazzar]

Time to get the front cover on. While the sump was drying.

I did get the spray gun out to do this.

If your user name had 17H in it. Look away, this might excite you too much.

I sprayed the back of the timing case, and the block/head area behind the water pump, purely as I'll not be able to access.

It's MOD recon green.

Totally age appropriate.

I like the colour, so I'll use it.

I also painted the lift pump plate, which, interestingly was already green. 

I suspect this was retrofitted when the engine was in its previous vehicle, which was a 2a, if I recall correctly. 

[Bowie69]

I am the last one to urinate on someone's bonfire, but I am not convinced that the paint on the inside of the sump is a good idea.

80C oil with various detergents could well lift it and send it into your strainer.

Worse still, it is zinc rich paint, and while oil often has zinc additives, it is not the same stuff, and could cause you a world of pain.

If it was something like glyptil(sp?) Then I wouldn't worry, but that is just a primer, and doubt designed for the job.

Sorry..... ignore me if you want of course

 

 

[Gazzar]

The sump was dry enough to fit at that stage. So I did.

Well. I say that. The sodding gasket was miscut. It was shrunken. I think I was able to get it to seal, but not convinced. I'll get a genuine gasket and refit, because it's not good enough.

 

[Gazzar]

Just now, Bowie69 said:

I am the last one to urinate on someone's bonfire, but I am not convinced that the paint on the inside of the sump is a good idea.

80C oil with various detergents could well lift it and send it into your strainer.

Worse still, it is zinc rich paint, and while oil often has zinc additives, it is not the same stuff, and could cause you a world of pain.

If it was something like glyptil(sp?) Then I wouldn't worry, but that is just a primer, and doubt designed for the job.

Sorry..... ignore me if you want of course

 

 

Landrover painted the sumps inside. And the sump did have a rusty patch!

Seriously:

Your point is valid. I do have a concern that the paint will lift off in sheets. But I think the paint is high temp, and should dry very tight.

I'll be changing oil filters a lot for the first few months, and I'll be inspecting them carefully.

It's a bit of a risk, so I will drop the sump after a year and inspect as well.

[Gazzar]

Speedi sleeves.

[Bowie69]

4 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

Landrover painted the sumps inside. And the sump did have a rusty patch!

Seriously:

Your point is valid. I do have a concern that the paint will lift off in sheets. But I think the paint is high temp, and should dry very tight.

I'll be changing oil filters a lot for the first few months, and I'll be inspecting them carefully.

It's a bit of a risk, so I will drop the sump after a year and inspect as well.

Cool, as long as you are aware.

Difficulty is no knowing how that specific paint will react, and how modern oils which have very high levels of detergent will affect it.

But sounds like you have it in hand

On another note, I seem to remember the oil pick up being different between the FFR sump and the regular one. What that may or may not mean for you, I am not sure

[Gazzar]

Pictures of the flywheel for Ross.

There's a 1.5mm inner raised lip on the back of the flywheel, and my plan is to locate the trigger wheel on this. The clutch cover bolt holes are 8 X 1.25 metric, and I'll tap them through so I can attach the trigger wheel. I might need to countersink the trigger wheel to achieve this. 

All I've got to check is the clearance on the flywheel housing, and where I've to drill the housing for the sensor. Oh, and the alignment of the missing tooth, that's important, right?

[Gazzar]

1 minute ago, Bowie69 said:

Cool, as long as you are aware.

Difficulty is no knowing how that specific paint will react, and how modern oils which have very high levels of detergent will affect it.

But sounds like you have it in hand

On another note, I seem to remember the oil pick up being different between the FFR sump and the regular one. What that may or may not mean for you, I am not sure

You mean the strainer?

Didn't know that. The baffle looked the same.

I do know that the oil pump release valve should be modified (blanked?) so the pressure release valve in the cooler acts first, diverting the excess to the cooler. But everyone says that's a bad plan.

So, I have left the oil pump pressure relief valve alone. I don't expect the cooler valve will ever open, as the pump valve should open first, but it looks cool, and will be a back up.

 

 

[Bowie69]

Yeah, the strainer was totally different on a replacement pump I had, bent entirely the other way.

Swapped over ok though.

[Landrover17H]

Completely get the idea of an FFR type oil-cooler. Not quite descended to the full 'Walt' but 'fraid in the battle to be the most tragic, I  claim the win...

I've added a heap of gauges in the last few weeks. Likely you know, on the S3 gauge cluster, the 'milly' version has an oil temp, where the mufti version has a 'charge' light. See piccy below, thus I decided to swap out my civvy 'charge' lamp /  idiot indicator for an oil-temp gauge. It's a Jaeger/ Smiths cluster, in that era they all were. I found a Humber Snipe temp  gauge and shoehorned it in. Anything Leyland or Ford, all had the same gauges. If you want it to read 'Oil Temp' rather than 'Charge', all you do is find a 'milly' gauge insert and cobble it up, an Austin 1800 gauge would fit too. Pic shows the Mufti and Milly variants. I couldn't use the 'Milly' gauge I had, was 24V. Displaced 'Charge' bulb now lives to the right,

Edited June 6, 2020 by Landrover17H

[Gazzar]

Gauges, gauges will be a whole other battle!

But for another day.

[Landrover17H]

Yeah, shouldn't see gauges put the top of your list - just sayin'... thanks for the Speedi-sleeve info. I admire your tenacity with the trigger-wheel. It'd be nice hidden, you're making my thrown-in efforts look like a proper lash-up.

 

Quote

If your user name had 17H in it. Look away, this might excite you too much.

Pure filth. Who said this was a family site?

Edited June 7, 2020 by Landrover17H