sharkey964 Posted March 14, 2020 Author Share Posted March 14, 2020 9 minutes ago, cackshifter said: Perhaps the handbrake is on? Maybe stuck on even? Or a stuck piston in that caliper? Oh,I hope not!!!!!! I'll feel a right knob,if it is. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remington Rolling Block Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 (edited) Same here Marc,,, just cant get them to bleed properly , and still no rear brakes, im now down to changing all the pipes and moving to braided hoses,,, if the rain ever stops... A quick edit just in case it helps. All calliper's were new 8 months ago, pistols free and bleed ports clear New master cylinder fitted New bias valve fitted. New rear solid pipes fitted. New valve to TEE fitted. End result fronts work rears don't. When bleeding fluid starts to run as expected then slows and stops, no amount of vacuum or pressure makes any difference Next it braided hoses and front pipes Edited March 15, 2020 by Remington Rolling Block Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Something seems to stick in my head that when your bleeding brakes with a bias valve you only push the pedal halfway maybe the valve is all one way thinking you have a burst pipe to the rear and therfore giving you braking to the complete front circuit valve may need re- centering to allow fluid to flow to the back ezeebleed may have over pressured and altered bias of valve quite often now when I bleed brakes I just crack the furthest one away and let gravity work and continue in order of distance away I also ensure all pistons are pushed home to minimise trapped air works 99% of the time for me regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remington Rolling Block Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Hello Stephen. I see where your coming from with the 1/2 pedal, worth a try, as for over pressuring im not so sure, I bleed mine with a vacuum set up the first couple of times. Now this gravity thing, tell us more, I take it you have to do the same on all four wheels,,,,,,, lol how long does it take Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Yes all 4 calipers push all pistons home so then I would open bleed nipple on near side rear 1st once I've got fluid coming out close nipple then open offside rear so you get the picture then nearside front followed by offside front then pump up the pedal before moving off so pistons take up wear on pads it doesn't take that long 15 mins or so but does the trick if you have no assistance regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remington Rolling Block Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Cheers Stephen ill give that a try,,, Just found what maybe part of my problem. At sometime someone has replace the rear pipes whit copper,,,,,,,, and use 3/8 ENOTS fittings not 3/8 UNF,,, lets hope it hasn't bu**ered the calliper threads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 3/8? Defenders use 10 mm threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 1 hour ago, Remington Rolling Block said: Cheers Stephen ill give that a try,,, Just found what maybe part of my problem. At sometime someone has replace the rear pipes whit copper,,,,,,,, and use 3/8 ENOTS fittings not 3/8 UNF,,, lets hope it hasn't bu**ered the calliper threads have you tried this --- Disconnect rear brakes from the T joint on top of rear diff, blank one side of the T & see if fluid appears at the open connection, if that works, swap the blank over & check other connection, if both get fluid expelled, check each pipe in turn then if that works the pipeline are fine & fault is in one or both calipers. & the connection thread in calipers is M10 x 1.0mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remington Rolling Block Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Well, all the unions I have are 3/8 unf, and take a 7/16 spanner,, Having said the I changed the two rouge unions for 3/8,,,,,,,, it bleed out perfect brakes now are better than they have ever been,,,,, ive lots of unf threads around the motor, only metric ive found are on the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 I'm at the point where the Mrs is keeping all sharp object away from me...plus matches,as I want to set the bloody thing on fire. I've pressure bled these brakes now so many times I've lost count. STILL no brakes front or rear.... Like Tom,fitted new calipers,discs,& pads,master cylinder & brake bias valve. 😭 *Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 (edited) I take it you've tried bleeding in stages see if it comes out of master cylinder first if so then move to the next joint along it may highlight where your issues are also it's not unheard of to have a faulty part fresh out of the box regards Stephen Edited March 15, 2020 by Stellaghost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 I fitted new bias valve middle of last year and as for bleeding, wifey was pushing the pedal all the way down!?! This works as i think bias/balance valve only distributes the pressure evenly? Plus just put x2 new rear calipers on OEM and pipe connectors ARE metric, again on mine that is. Totally sympathise with your frustration on this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 57 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: I take it you've tried bleeding in stages see if it comes out of master cylinder first if so then move to the next joint along it may highlight where your issues are also it's not unheard of to have a faulty part fresh out of the box regards Stephen I'm getting a good flow of fluid at the front bleed nipples,not quite as good at the rear,but fluid all the same,& am able to bleed all calipers so no air visible. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Daft question i know but have you connected bias valve up correctly, is it leaking at all if only slightly??? As front bleed fine and back seems to be the issue, this is possibly where i would start looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 1 hour ago, Remington Rolling Block said: it bleed out perfect brakes now are better than they have ever been What did you actually do to achieve this regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remington Rolling Block Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Just been out to mine anddddddd the pedals gone,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, looks like tomorrow is tare it down and start again,,,,, Marc! pass the matches Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remington Rolling Block Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Hello Stephen,,, well not much, changed a couple of unions the bleed the be jazus out of the lot,,,,, seemed to work but just been out to lock up and the air is back,,, im bad to square one,,,, but tomorrow is another BLEEDING day lol lol Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 28 minutes ago, Remington Rolling Block said: Hello Stephen,,, well not much, changed a couple of unions the bleed the be jazus out of the lot,,,,, seemed to work but just been out to lock up and the air is back,,, im bad to square one,,,, but tomorrow is another BLEEDING day lol lol Tom Oh Tom! When I finished yesterday I was getting a bit of something at the front,so thought a bit more bleeding,& I'd be there. But after loads more bleeding today.....Nowt! There must be air in there somewhere?But somehow fluid is getting through. I'm at a loss. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remington Rolling Block Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Don't give up mate,,,,, its better than a pinny and the marigolds, , bit off topic but if you need help in the front Viagra is wonderful lol take my word for it lol. ok back to work. Tomorrow im gona pull mine apart again and start from the ground up,,,,,, if it makes you feel any better ive got through 4 litrs of fluid so far and the body count is rising, one thing im going to have a close look at is the pipe flairs, something I just took for granted.. Ill keep you posted. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 What about the servo Tom? I haven't changed/checked that. I had a suggestion on another forum the diaphram in the servo could be split???? Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remington Rolling Block Posted March 16, 2020 Share Posted March 16, 2020 Well I cant say for sure but if the diaphragm was leaking it just wouldn't put any pressure on the master cylinder,,,,, so cant see that would affect bleeding or the brakes working other than giving a heavy pedal ,, im no expert but the servo is there to take out the leg work,,,,,,, I have in the past driven mine with the vacuum pipe not fitted,,, just a heavy pedal,,,, something I want to check is the operating bar from servo to cylinder,,,,, is it seated properly or maybe need adjusting ,,, don't know on this one till I look..... however I wouldn't worry about the servo just yet. Tell ya what when we got these motor sorted we will have to kill a bottle of Jack Daniels or 2 lol lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted March 16, 2020 Share Posted March 16, 2020 In my limited experience, when it's single pipe brakes, and the pedal stays soft, it's a junction that's at fault. Bleed nipple, Union with caliper, etc. As there is a few comments about the metric v Imperial brake fittings, I'd look there first. There is one combination of metric and imperial that does fit mechanically, but doesn't seal, the workshop manual covers this in detail. Do you have copper slip on the bleed nipple thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remington Rolling Block Posted March 16, 2020 Share Posted March 16, 2020 Hello Gazzar, I think your right mate. Had mine down to nuts and bolts this morning, checked all the unions, connections and pipe flairs, all the calliper flairs didn't look right when I had my glasses on, just didn't look crushed enough,,, so thinking about the Imp / Met I changed all the unions and re flaired the pipes, did them all male and female,,,,, and I got brakes again. I had a dig in my junk box and found one of the old callipers and tried a plug thread gauge it WAS 3/8 unf. I checked the new callipers they are 10mm. So im none the wiser but I am mobile and the dogs are cock'a'hoop as they can get after the rabbits again. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted March 16, 2020 Share Posted March 16, 2020 Always good to get a result even if it's a little frustrating not to know exactly how!?! Oh and my x2 dogs prefer pigeons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sharkey964 Posted March 16, 2020 Author Share Posted March 16, 2020 35 minutes ago, Remington Rolling Block said: Hello Gazzar, I think your right mate. Had mine down to nuts and bolts this morning, checked all the unions, connections and pipe flairs, all the calliper flairs didn't look right when I had my glasses on, just didn't look crushed enough,,, so thinking about the Imp / Met I changed all the unions and re flaired the pipes, did them all male and female,,,,, and I got brakes again. I had a dig in my junk box and found one of the old callipers and tried a plug thread gauge it WAS 3/8 unf. I checked the new callipers they are 10mm. So im none the wiser but I am mobile and the dogs are cock'a'hoop as they can get after the rabbits again. Tom Hey Tom, Glad that you got there in the end. So,this morning I bled everything through AGAIN,but this time as recomended on another forum,starting with the furthest wheel from the MC.Also jacking up each wheel in turn,to give a high spot for any air to rise to!!!Tried it.....NO diferent......So,I thoght,go back to the begining.Starting at the new master cylinder.When I took it off I noticed a mark or a bit of damage on the piston,checked the old one,no marks or damage on that one.Looked into the hole in the servo,& the rod that locates in the piston of the MC had fallen out of position,so therefore not engaging inside the piston.Assembled it again making sure the rod was located in the MC piston,bled up as above.......YAAAAY!....I have brakes.I still need to road test tomorow,but fingers crossed Ihave got to the bottom of the problem.I would like to say a massive thank you to everyone who has taken their time to give advice on this.This forum is brilliant & invaluable to all who want to be as involved in the maintainence of their Land Rovers.Marc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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